The All Purpose Advice Thread - Part 2

@Pharmaboy , thanks, yes thats waht I was asking.

 

I'm feeling pretty guilty having so much money into my headphones and not deriving enough joy per dollar as I don't use them enough. I had not used my stereo for a couple years so I compensated by getting summit-fi headphone stuff. I am considering downgrading to recoup some cost from my headphone rig and move to something more cost effective so I don't feel bad when I only use my headphones a few times a month. Right now it's Focal Utopia 2020 with a fancy cable, Holo Bliss KTE, Holo Red, Roon, Eversolo DAC-Z8 and original Modius AKM.

So, what is the target for best bang for buck on headphone and amp? I may continue to use the DAC-Z8 or Modius AKM. My headphone preference has always favored Focal Clear and Focal Utopia above all else I've tried. Meze Empyrean was a very close second place behind the Utopia. I like the lightning fast response and airiness of Focal with still excellent bass for my ears. Drop Elex was garbage to me. Is there a headphone that can get this done for a reasonable price? I was thinking of trying the Sennheiser HD660S2 as it seems to be available for around $400.

For headphone amp I'm not sure what I want to do. Logic says I should use the built-in amp of the DAC-Z8 and call it a day.

 

Since you know and like it, why not stick with the Clear? At the $900 price it goes for today, it's good value, when it comes to price to performance. And open box ones are sold by headphonesdotcom for $800. (I've noticed that used ones on head-fi are typically listed for too high a price, though, around $700. To my mind, they should be $500, at most.) The Clear has the advantage of being easy to drive, and not overly picky when it comes to chain, so your DAC-Z8 might do the job satisfactorily.

I've given thought to which headphones I'd settle on if I were to downsize. The Clear and ETA 02 are contenders, for me, in the $500-1000 category, I'd go for either the RD-X (rhythmdevils modded LCD-X) and Auteur Classic in the ca. $1.5k range. Below $500, I'd say Elex, but you've nixed it, or the HD 600. The HiFiMan Edition XS seems to be popular and a good price: https://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?threads/hifiman-edition-xs.11733/

 

I should have mentioned, when I got the Utopia I sold my perfect condition Clear to a buddy for $500. I don't think I can justify spending more than that for another Clear, although getting one "new" for slightly more could be reasonable. I also see this as an opportunity for me to try something slightly different than what I am used to just for the sake of "new toy" satisfaction. Perhaps unreasonable, but this is also an exercise in me just wanting something new and different but trying really hard to not just go spend $2,000 on the DCA E3 because I think that is what I really want.

It also seems the headamp on the Eversolo DAC-Z8 is crap (objectively) so I think that needs to be mitigated as well. I have not actually tried it yet.

 

Just because I remain a fan of them, have you tried out the Fostex biodynamic headphones or derivatives? the treble is often rougher, but using a reasonably warm source with sedate treble (perhaps the DAC-Z8 might not be ideal on its own...) does a lot to make them more palatable, as would swapping the stock TH-900 pads out for the narrower-aperture TH-610/X00 ones. I feel like the Focals are more technically competent and resolving of nuance, and have more normal-sounding microdynamics besides, but the biodyna kids are just more fun to listen to with a more immediately impressive headstage and imaging, even out of less superlative sources.

The Klipsch HP-3 out of a Garage 1217 Project Sunrise III+ basic LPS out of an original Bifrost MB was a great match, and I regret replacing the Sunrise with a Liquid Carbon (mainly just wanted to be free of tubes, agh). Not sure what cost of tubes for the Sunrise is like now, but I feel like that may not be too much a concern since you don't plan to use headphones too often.

I'm currently running a Modi 3+ > Piety > HD600 with VERY worn out pads, and other than headstage and ultimate low end impact and rumble, I don't feel I'm missing out on very much from the prior rig. Getting to try my Senns out of a Studio Jr. at a friend's place out of their Modius AKM kinda ruined inner peace for me slightly, but I'm pretty content rocking this until I can afford e.g. a Starlett+dac2541 in maybe several years (but agh tubes).

 

I have been using my Code-X for a long time, and its earpads have worn out. I tried contacting LFF to ask if I could buy replacement pads, but for some reason I can't find his account.

1. Has Luis changed his account name, left the SBAF, or got banned for some reason? Does anyone know his current status and how to get in contact with him?

2. If not, does anyone know where LFF got the pads he used for Code-X? Maybe I could purchase them directly from there.

Any help would be appreciated, thank you in advance.

 

Does anyone have experience using a step up transformer to use a 230V device out of a 110V outlet? In my case I am considering an amp with a peak draw of 400w.
I keep hearing I should probably use a beefed up transformer. I am considering getting a 2000W transformer.

Are there any other potential issues that I am missing here: sound quality and safety wise?

 

I have no problem with the reverse (stepping down) and I use a transformer with at least twice the watt that the device would draw. The only problem may be the Hz that your equipment might be designed for (50 vs 60) which the transformer won’t convert (??) but my own personal use and situation didn’t encounter any problems. Maybe I got lucky.

Also try this older thread https://www.superbestaudiofriends.o...r-a-step-up-down-transformer-for-travel.3460/

 

Well hello there, pyrates.

I'm tired of moving my audio interface between two computers.

I'm looking for a good option specifically for my Dynaudio BM12A powered monitors.

They're not super resolving, but they're fun to listen to.

I need something with:

• Extremely reliable, well-implemented USB
• Not shrill
• Clean, clear, fun
• Balanced XLR output
• Don't care if it works with headphones
• Tube or solid state
• Can be by itself or a stack
• Price... I dunno, under $700?

 

Schiit jotunheim with multibit DAC module comes to mind.

 

I'm happy with my Motu M2 for desktop use, if you don't mind TRS balanced outs. Well under budget, and easy enough to buy-and-try, and resell if it doesn't work for you. I used my Schiit Modi Multibit v1 previously, and ended up liking the M2 better after making the switch.

 

Question for the brain trust here on central air conditioning.

My wife and I live in Florida, and our central A/C died on us a little over a year ago. We made do with multiple window units, but we're now looking to replace our central unit this winter/spring, before summer hits.

The question is - what sort of things should we be looking for, or questions should we be asking, to get a central A/C unit that's relatively quiet?

Our old one created an obnoxious amount of white noise from the vents. In my main listening space, I'd frequently cover the floor vent with some heavy books when listening. In our living room, it was pure torture to be present anytime the A/C kicked on. It just sounded like a white noise generator running at full blast.

I know commercial studios and other spaces are able to achieve effective air conditioning that's fairly quiet, but, no clue what to look for to implement something even remotely similar in a residential space.

We are likely making some modifications to our duct work, so anything that could help with the noise on that end, is on the table, in addition to advice around air handlers, and anything else that might work.

Any and all advice is appreciated. Thanks!

 

@gsanger

Is the noise more of a wind rustling sound or a mechanical/fan whine?
Are you replacing both the condenser and coil, or also the fan unit? (here in Canada the fan unit is our furnace, I'm not sure how it's done in Florida or if it's a combined fancoil unit)

If it's the sound of wind, it's because the system is pushing more air than the ductwork is designed for. You either need to reduce the airflow rate (which may or may not be enough to cool your home) or upsize the ducts and round the corners.

If it's a mechanical noise, then you need a new fan/blower/etc.

With your old system, was it very fast at cooling your home? There's such a thing as too fast for air conditioners.

 

I looked into this a while ago and think these resources may be helpful:

• https://www.acousticalsurfaces.com/hvac/duct_silen.htm
  
• https://www.soundproofcow.com/sound...roof-a-home-2/how-to-soundproof-hvac-systems/
  
• https://www.acoustiguard.com/products/pipes-ducts/inline-silencer.html

Could be worth a short consult with a contractor that focuses on sound reduction for HVAC as well to get some ideas.

 

These will technically work, but be careful that they do not reduce the amount of required air to the room.

The first one is a silencer but your effective duct space is only the open area, and the rest is absorptive material and takes up a ton of space.

The second is a duct liner. Yes it works, but it reduces your duct cross section and how much effective cooling air will be delivered to the room.

Third is similar to the first.

 

what @Armaegis said... if the white noise is air movement, then either your system is oversized and/or your ductwork is undersized/badly located.

Best system is even distribution at low velocity - the goal is that you don't feel a breeze/chill from air movement, but the registers are distributed enough that you don't have to "throw air" the entire way across a room.

 

In regards to the A/C unit itself. They sell them in single stage, dual stage, and variable speed types. The Variable Speed units are usually the most quiet, gives greatest control over temperature, and in the long run the most cost effective. I replaced my whole system last year and this was one of the main things I had to consider when replacing my died out unit.

 

The engineer in me would also ask what refrigerant is being used in the replacement. R-410a is on the cusp of being phased out and no one has really standardized on what the replacement will be, though some manufacturers are pushing for their own.

 

What I'm about to relate may not work in Florida's climate, but it damn sure works in upstate New York, where our summers are consistently way worse than they used to be (longer, more humid, higher avg temps).

My house is quite modern in design/construction and cannot accommodate a trad central, whole-house AC system. Just impossible. For years we relied on window AC for a couple BRs plus this office, but due to large open floor plan, most of the 1st floor (all common areas) cannot be handled at all well w/window units.

Punchline: we got 6 of what you in Florida would call "heat pumps," but what we call "split AC units." 3 big ones (12 BTU) for the larger spaces; 3 small ones (6 BTU) for small BRs. We've learned quite a lot by living w/these things for past ~3 yrs:

1. Depending on who you hire to install, cost is either comparable to a similar capacity whole house system, or somewhat higher (10%-15%). I'm going by prices people tell me they paid for whole house AC in their large houses
2. Each AC unit has its own wire harness that's run up the side of the house, enclosed in "line hide." The harness hold the AC power and the fluid coolant lines, in & out of each unit. Each unit also has its own water/condensation drip tube, a much smaller tube that can be hidden easily.
   • #2 is the only real drawback/negative to split AC systems. If you ever replace siding, you first have to deinstall any line hides that are on the siding, then reinstall.
   • But everything else in this list is positive--very positive
3. No main unit in attic or crawlspace, like whole house (the driver units sit outside near the foundation--we have two of them, but smaller houses may only need one, since each driver unit can handle 4 split units of any size/BTU rating.
4. NO DUCTWORK!
   
5. Each unit is (to my eyes) easy to look at, not huge & intrusive. Each is installed high up on the wall of the selected space.
6. These units are very quiet. Unless you stand right next to one, you'll probably hear it less than you would a vent from the whole house system.
   
7. Each unit is separately controlled via remote control. For AC, typically you set certain things just once (direction of airflow vanes, vertical and horizonal; fan speed; target temp), then just turn on the unit. In Florida, you'd probably keep it one for7-8 months straight, but you can set different temps for different times (cycles of lower temp for nighttime and higher for daytime--whatever you want. These features are wholly dependent on the brand/mfr of the splits in question (ours are Mitsubishi)
   • Because each unit is separately controlled, you will, in effect, have a different zone wherever each one is installed. In our case, 1 out of the 6 is almost never on; 3 are on only at night; and 2 are on only daytimes. Easy peasy.

These can also be switched to heat mode, though we've never tried that.

NOTE: just like whole house systems, splits work better when ceiling fans are in use, especially in large spaces. But "better" really means more even temp, rather than simply needing fans to cool the space at all well.

These unit run on either propane (that's us) or natural gas.STRONGLY recommended.