The All Purpose Advice Thread

I'm getting pretty noticeable interference on a couple different driver tubes (but not every tube), most likely from my nearby router. It's definitely the driver tube picking it up. I am wondering if there's some kind of metal shield I can buy? I've vaguely seen these before, like on some bottlehead products, and am assuming interference reduction is their purpose.

Any additional info, solutions, what they're actually called, where I could get one..etc would be appreciated. Specifically, my tube is a 6SL7 on the ZDS.

 

Tube cage?

 

@PoochZag I think they're called (vacuum) tube sheilds. That sounds like what you would want for RF interference.

 

I am in the market for some new universal IEMs and am looking at the $300-500 price point. At the moment the main contenders are Vibro Labs Aria and the Campfire Audio Orion or Nova (or the Lyra II that's on Massdrop, though it seems opinions are very mixed on those), but I can't make a decision. Is there anything else I should consider? Any major votes for or against any of the three mentioned?

In general I'm looking for something neutralish with perhaps a slight v-shape that's got good soundstage/separation. I'll be driving them with a Chord Mojo so power shouldn't be an issue.

 

Bunch of notes:
-the CA Nova sort of sucks tuning wise and is the black sheep of their BA line-up, I wouldn't recommend it over the Orion
-the Orion is the furthest thing from a slight v-shape, it is largely mid-centric with an upper mid lift and excellent low to upper mid transition. The treble is slightly shelved and the bass hits like a wet sponge despite being tight. I really like it, but it would be a totally fail pairing with the Mojo because of hiss and how colored the Mojo is IMO
-the Aria totally sucks, period. Poor value.

In that budget I'd look at the FLC8S if the Orion seems too mid-centric. Mee Pinnacle P1 for a cheaper alternative. If you can stretch for a B-stock or used CA Jupiter that may be to your taste as well.

 

I am looking for a set of IEM for my wife. She is extremely picky, wants something neutral-ish (slightly warm is ok), AND the biggest issue is she wants straight IEMs, most of the new ones are over-ear, she doesn't want to wear them that way, I tried with a few sets but gave up.

Recently I got her Etymotic MC3, hate.
1more triple driver, hate (this is when I discovered she wants something more neutral).

Budget is around 200, less is better as I am sure she will find something wrong with the new ones too.

 

See this post of mine from way back when: http://superbestaudiofriends.org/in...-purpose-advice-thread.19/page-145#post-97859

 

Thanks for the reply, it looks like I can cross a couple options off the list. I've been considering the B-stock Jupiter as well and may just have to commit to it since it seems to be the best contender in the price bracket, barring some amazing used deal showing up.

 

Anyone help me decide i'm in the market for a new headphone the only 2 headphones that interest me are the fostex th 610 & hex v2 which i've heard both of them. I will be using these for gaming, movies & music with them.

At first i was leaning onto the hex v2 until i saw the fostex th 610 was on sale in the uk around £499 which made me change my mind. However while i like the hex v2 bigger soundstage i felt it did not have the bass the th610, So what are some of you guys thought on these headphones.

 

Hey guys,

A buddy of mine got a guitar amp from the UK and we want to use ii here. From doing some research I guess we need a transformer, I am just unsure what transformer we need. The amp is 100 watts and runs on 230 Volts with a European plug. Can someone send me a link to a transformer that would work with the amp so we can use it in the US? (Something from Amazon if possible). I believe we need a step-up transformer but there are a lot o choices I don't know what we need exactly so any help and links would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks!

 

You need a step down transformer, probably about 200W to be on the safe side if buying cheap.

Is the guitar amp not a SMPS? Those are typically universal voltage. Most transformers I can see on Amazon look like rebadges from 1 crappy Chinese factory.

 

step-down transformer? Don't I need to step-up from US 110V to European 240?

 

You're looking for a step up/down voltage transformer. There are tons of options out there with various numbers of connections, various power handling capacities, and varying quality. I've looked at Amazon, and most look mediocre but probably work. I've always thought AcuPwr made decent transformers.

 

A yi yi brain fart.

That ALL CAPS DO YOU UNDERSTAND BETTER IF I SHOUT REVIEW though

 

Does anyone know any mod on PM3 to improve on treble side? Keen to try but after reading and viewing several reviews, it all says that it is very neutral headphone but lacks liveliness because it supress 4k~8k region a bit too much and tend to sound a bit boring.. Not sure if there is any mod to improve on it by any chance...

 

If you are trying to increase treble - reduce anything between the driver and the cup. On the HD650 the quarter mod does this. I am unfamilair with the PM3, but is there any foam or material that can be removed? If so try it out, if it still sounds veiled or muted than it is likey the driver and not much can be done.

 

I'm currently using Oyaide SWO-XXX AC receptacles rated 15A or 20A/125V, even if the standard voltage in my location is 220V. I've been noticing electrical ground whenever I come in contact with the metal parts of my the Yggdrasil, is this related to the voltage incompatibility? What are the affects of using a 125V receptacle with 220V?

To those living in Europe, I'd really appreciate it if you could recommend some 220V compatible AC receptacles that are hospitable grade like the Oyaide.

 

What are people's thoughts on using RCA splitters vs a switch for connecting multiple sources to one input (or even one source to multiple outputs)? Do they degrade the signal quality? I guess they will reduce the signal level, but I can always turn the volume up a bit .

 

Generally these ratings address one, or both, of two things.

The rated break-down resistance of any dielectric (insulator) and/or a roundabout way of expressing acceptable power capacity (given identical conductors, 125v at 10 amps is the same power, and thermal load, as 250v at 5 amps). Though typically (and formally) it's the certification for the former. And in which case, a failure of the insulator could result in things getting zapped ... including you.

In practice it may not matter that much, and often these things are actually tested with a fair margin of error (to avoid liability suits) although it's unlikely to be compliant with any local building/safety codes - which could potentially f**k you on your insurance if you ever had an electrical fire, or a shock-related injury.