The All Purpose Advice Thread

Yup, it's expensive but is useful in any system configuration. I have one from Gungnir Multibit ->PC2XR->Zana Deux.

 

Is my text invisible??

Find a nice used Topaz isolation transformer sized to meet your needs.

 

Is there a Topaz isolation transformer that provides a set of RCA inputs and outputs for my needs?

 

No. You use it to isolate audio devices from the AC mains. I don't know that I would be so keen to put an isolator in line between my DAC and headphone amp. The Topaz should attack the root of the problem....the isolator you mention treats a symptom.

 

Pardon my ignorance, but I'm not really familiar with the concept of a isolation transformer. I brought up that Jensen transformer because it seems very simple to use, pretty much self-explanatory. There were so many different models to choose from, with price ranging from hundreds to thousands of dollars.

I'm interested in the Topaz too, but unlike Jensen I couldn't find much information on them, let alone an official website. To make things easier, could you please give me an example by recommending a specific model in the Topaz line of transformers (please provide a link to the product page or official seller), and tell me how it should be connected to my audio chain? Also please note that my country uses 220V as mains voltage.

Thanks again.

 

Look at my post here:

https://www.superbestaudiofriends.o...rfaces-and-bears-oh-my.62/page-57#post-129136

Also, the Topaz is no longer made. I picked up two different models up on eBay. I would get at least a 1.8kVa model but my preferred version is a 2.5kVa model. The part numbers are 91018-31 and 91002-31, respectively.

 

A Topaz isolation transformer is a bit different to the Jensen isolation transformers you list. As @winders says the Topaz is more or less a power conditioner, as it's something you put between your wall and the power strip all your audio equipment is on. Its objective is to block common mode noise coming in on your AC power line. The Jensen goes in your audio chain in the manner you suggest, with main objective to break the DC connection between the grounds of your various bits of equipment (thereby breaking any ground loop).

If you have a ground loop and put everything on a Topaz isolation transformer, you are still going to have a ground loop afterwards, just referenced to a different ground, so if your problem is a ground loop it is unlikely to fix it. Because the precise causation is a bit murky it's quite possible that the ground loop would mysteriously clear up but I would say that the Jensen isolation transformer is the better bet since it is designed specifically to break ground loops. (This is assuming that your problem is indeed a ground loop, which seems the most likely option).

There is still a choice between the Jensen CI-2RR (going between SE out of Gungnir Multibit and SE in of T3), and PC2XR (between XLR out of Gungnir Multibit and SE in of T3). The PC2XR is significantly more expensive but from the graphs on the Jensen website it seems to measure better. The CI-2RR has 1db rolloff in the top octave and marginally more harmonic distortion in the bass. The PC2XR looks flat within the whole audio spectrum. This is going off the spec sheet. Maybe someone else has actually heard both and can say if this difference is in any way audible - possibly it is not. Also some people think that the XLR outputs of the Gungnir Multibit sound very slightly better than the summed SE outputs (to me the difference is marginal at best).

 

I had the same problem when I had Ragnarok or Vali attached to Musical Fideliti m6i VDac 2 single ended. Thought it was a ground loop but actually was due to a very noisy laptop power supply.

In your case, if it is a ground loop originating from the AC power, this might do the trick...

https://airlinktransformers.com/category/conditioning-balanced-power-supply

It is meant to be used in pro audio applications and is not exhorbitantly expensive. This conditioning balanced transformer can be supplied for any voltage / plug type.

Airlink also have a standard balanced supply. The difference between thh two can be found in their FAQ...

"Our Standard Balanced Power Supply takes the incoming mains supply and, using a toroidal power transformer with a centre-tapped output, balances the mains voltage about the ground voltage (0V).

The Conditioning Balanced Power Supply has the addition of a three-stage EMI suppression filter between the line input and the transformer designed to suppress either common and differential mode noise or interference. Both types of supply have an inter-winding electrostatic screen which helps to stop high frequency interference from reaching the output and thus getting into the attached equipment. The mains filter reduces high frequency noise from the mains supply"

Furthermore they are now available to buy from Australia besides UK. There a some good audio reviews of it here.

Trying to suppress the noise further upstream using the Jensen between DAC and amp is not ideal. However it would work if the issue is upstream of the power supply such as in my case being a noisy laptop power supply. In my case it disappeared once I went fully balanced with Yggdrasil reappearing as soon as Vali is used. Changing laptops solved the problem once and for all.

 

Instead of insulation transformer in between dac and amp, potentially cheaper and better sounding option is to get a proper galvanically isolated source that outputs SPDIF. Or perhaps a RaspberryPi based system.
You'd probably want to ditch the Gungnir Multibit's USB anyways for sonics reasons.
Another thing to consider: if you are going the line level isolator route why not get a BAL-SE transformer instead? BAL out from Gungnir Multibit should be a hair better to begin with.

Get that anyways if you live in urban area.

 

Since people are slinging around suggestions for those Jensen isolation transformers, here's a cheaper alternative that also converts between all the various ins/outs that you could ever need:
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/DTI

On the other hand, here's the ultra-swag edition (Radial owns Jensen):
https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/JDIDuplex

 

I agree that this is likely to be the simplest solution. Any of Dyson Audio, Blue Jeans or Redco could make you up a pair. But beware there could be problems depending on what your monitors/headamp do when they are switched off. If either of them short their inputs, then it will be impossible to use them with an XLR splitter, as when they are switched off their low impedance will hog all the output current of the Gungnir Multibit and you will get an extremely quiet and distorted signal at the other output.

If you don't know what your equipment does when it's switched off, you can test it by running XLR to monitors, RCA to something else, switching the monitors off, and seeing if the something else sounds distorted. Then do the same with the headamp: run XLR to headamp, RCA to something else, and switch the headamp off and see if the something else sounds distorted. If you hear no distortion in either case then you should be good to use y-splitters. Otherwise you need a switch.

 

Thanks for this important hint.

If one connects MJ2 and Freya with active monitors via XLR Y-splitter to Gungnir Multibit - is this input shorting an issue or not at all?

 

I think trying first something that is not very expensive first is generally good advice to eliminate hum. I had good results with
https://www.amazon.com/Ebtech-Hum-Voltage-Filter/dp/B0002E4YI8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_sims?ie=UTF8
I do not follow instructions exactly (have more than one device attached to one Ebtech) but with try and error it helped at least in two cases: cheap D class Topping T-60 was humming like crazy but it is silent when connected to Ebetch X, and I had a slight hum from Nuforce headamps that was eliminated with Ebtech.
But sometimes it is just a simple thing: when humming was caused by a PC power, I new that because everything was very quiet when running from RPi Digi+ Pro, I simply changed the power cord and it stopped. Have no idea why.

 

I have an Yggdrasil with Dyson-made XLR "Y" adapters feeding both a MJ2 and a Freya using XLR cables. There are no issues with either the MJ2 or Freya off.

 

I might actually pick up that , I shop at Sweetwater a lot. That looks pretty handy too, I have a Power-conditioner I got years ago when I first purchased my NFB10ES2. As my house at that time was old and the wiring was horrible... I still use it but I wouldn't mind having another solution to carry when I'm not at home plugged into my power conditioner [or I may use them in Conjuction and see what happens

 

Not sure if this should go in here or in one of the IEM threads. I'm in my 40s, so I've already got tinnitus and likely some accumulated hearing loss. I'd like to slow that down as much as possible by listening at lower volumes. So I'm looking for some advice on an IEM for work. There's ambient noise from an a/c unit that forces me to listen to my Fostex TH-X00 PH louder than I would like to. Ideally I'd like:

• Silicon tips that I could quickly and easily remove/reinsert when I need to talk to someone
  
• Decent isolation
• Excellent comfort (I listen for several hours a day)
• Good sound at low volume
• Relatively neutral (though I don't mind something leaning more towards the X00)
• My current amp is a Meier Corda Arietta, but I'm willing to switch to something else if necessary (had been thinking of trying a Vali 2)
• Cost would be under $300, especially since this will be my first real effort at consistently using an IEM

My only prior experience with IEMs was with a set of Ety ER6i, which I absolutely hated. I couldn't get any bass out of them, and they just sounded wrong. I wonder now if I just never got a good enough seal or deep enough insertion. I had been curious about the Noble X since it's highly regarded around here, but have read that performance at low volume is not great. Anyway, I'd appreciate some advice. Thanks in advance.

 

I also have tinnitus and maximum isolation is a must to listen at lower volumes. The best for isolation are either the multi-flange, like the etymotic, or foam Comply tips. I tend to go with Comply because silicon will irritate me overtime. Although I think the ultimate isolation solution will probably be to go the full custom route.

I had the the primo 8 for a couple weeks and I found that they were fine at low volumes, but a bit harsh at high volumes for high frequencies. The harshness might just be me since I am extra sensitive to high frequencies due to my tinnitus. There is a drop on Massdrop right now for them for $200.

 

I tried a few things from artcessories in the distant past (preamp, switches, converters, etc.) and found them to the very definition of "cheap chinese crap".

If you've tried the isolation things and they work I'll take your word on it, otherwise I would advise anyone to stay away from artcessories gear. Not worth even the cheap price IMO.

 

That's why I listed the Radial right after. ART gear is generally about a half step above Behringer; not a huge endorsement per se, but I've had decent experience with their stuff (mostly passives though)

 

What you advice as an upgrade (semi-open or closed, no more than 700€) for DT880 if neutrality/non-colorization is the prime property I am looking for?