Wet shaving!

Discussion in 'Geek Cave: Computers, Tablets, HT, Phones, Games' started by FlySweep, Dec 27, 2016.

  1. ultrabike

    ultrabike Measurbator - Admin

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  2. ultrabike

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    So f**k it I did it:

    IMG_5336_small.JPG


    It shaves well for a straight razor. I got a decent shave with it today. Perhaps better than the shavette I had before. Nevertheless, a cartridge and a safety razor work better for me.

    It is easy for me to go against the grain with a cartridge and a safety (a DE requires an extra pass for me though). It is harder to go against the grain with a straight. That said, I did some passes against the grain with not a lot difficulty, given I already had plenty of experience with a shavette. And a crappy one at that.

    Using a straight razor is easier than using a shavette. But not t significantly so. Using either requires skill and some angles are very hard to do on oneself. More practice with it, obviously will lead to better results. But like I said, it is not IMO a night and day difference. That would be going from a straight to a DE. And to lesser extent going from a DE to a Trac II. Going from a Trac II to a 5 or 6 blade razor, IMO is in the BS realm. That said, 5 or 6 blades shave me well. They are just a a bit money per cartridge replacement, and exemplary garbage generators.

    If some are wondering, I did not get a single nick with this straight. I'm able to use both my hands. And I can do pretty much all the passes. I did my whole beard and mustache, not just the sides, which are significantly easier. For me, it did not take 2 or 3 passes. It took 5 to get semi-decent, or what I call semi-decent.

    Do I recommend the straight? Depends. I don't think one can get a better shave with it than with a safety or a cartridge. IMO one uses a straight today, because one wants to do so. Sort of like learning an art or something.

    I would recommend a DE, Weishi in particular for most folks. The blade replacement on those is the sex. I find it a good balance between shaving art, practicality, money savings, shave quality, and not polluting the environment with shit loads of plastic. I mean, the freaking handle looks awesome and is $10! That's like a KSC-75 of razors if you ask me (though it can get competitive there for DEs). Trac II is also good when one has 5 minutes to be done. And yes, a Trac II shaves really well.

    Anyways. There's my 2 cents.
     
    Last edited: Feb 7, 2017
  3. Stapsy

    Stapsy Friend

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    I splurged the other day and ordered the Above The Tie Kronos R1. The price is high almost unreasonably high, but the quality is superb. After inspecting the razor it became clear that the machining is very precise and probably not cheap. Threading the head on the handle is a strangely strong, smooth, and satisfying experience. The quality becomes even more obvious when I compare it to my previous razor, a re-brand made by Truefitt & Hill (I think a Muhle). The faux horn handle actually just came loose on that razor and now spins around the metal centre when I try use it. I can say this will not be an issue with the stainless ATT Kronos handle.

    Anyway, as I was about to use my new razor I noticed a big ole H on the bottom plate. After a bit of research I realized they had sent me the aggressive H1 plate instead of the moderate R1 plate that I had ordered. I spoke with the retailer and decided to give the H1 a try before sending it back. I had read some scary things about the aggressiveness of the H1, but it did a wonderful job mowing down a couple days of hair growth in relatively few passes and left me feeling no worse for wear. The biggest thing I noticed was that the H1 head responded very well to an extremely light touch. In the end I decided the keep the H1. I got the feeling that with a little practice it would be a nice head to have and I couldn't bring myself to trade it for the R1. I figured I would rather just order another head at a later time to compliment the H1.
     
  4. ultrabike

    ultrabike Measurbator - Admin

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    Dunno about aggressive, but I prefer sharp blades any day. They pull hair less and make things steady on the long run.
     
  5. SoupRKnowva

    SoupRKnowva Official SBAF South Korean Ambassador

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    I'm still getting stunning shaves using that prorasso cream, I'm actually mad at myself for not trying it sooner since everyone talks about it so much.

    One pass with it and a feather blade in my feather handle is all I need and it's smoother than I've had before. Incredible.
     
  6. ultrabike

    ultrabike Measurbator - Admin

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    I remember @LFF used to swear by Prorasso. That'll be my next acquisition. Need to finish off the Col. Conk soaps first.
     
  7. Stapsy

    Stapsy Friend

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    My understanding is that aggressive is a combination of blade exposure and blade gap. The more blade exposed and the higher the blade gap, the more aggressive (i.e. closer) the shave will be per pass. The flip side is that the closer the shave, the more skin that is potentially getting touched/scrapped/cut, which can lead to more irritation. Sharpness is related only to the blade itself. The sharpness of the blade will interact with the blade gap and impact the aggressiveness of the shave.

    A lot of what we perceive as sharpness is a lack of pulling, which could be just as much due to finding a head design and shaving angle that suits your technique as it is finding a blade with the ultimate sharpness.

    I can't say from experience if any of the above is true, but they are the principles I am starting with as I try to take a more learned approach to wet shaving.
     
  8. ultrabike

    ultrabike Measurbator - Admin

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    If blade exposure and gap is related to aggressiveness, then I got the mother of all aggressive shaves yesterday with my straight razor. And I got a very close shave this time (took me like 30 min and lots and lots of water). Not that much irritation though. Zero nicks.

    I think irritation is more related to how much one ends up scratching ones skin. Plenty of opportunities for that with any wet shaving system. But I get what you are saying.

    On the other hand note that some folks refer to the blade itself as aggressive, not just the razor. So who knows.

    Sharpness is definitively related to lack of pulling. And note that pulling is one of the reason one may get irritation.

    As far as the razor itself, I can say with confidence that the Gold Dollar 208 is indeed a very good razor.
     
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2017
  9. ultrabike

    ultrabike Measurbator - Admin

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    So again, not that much irritation, and zero nicks with the straight razor yesterday. And very close shave.

    Here are some data points (or some of my notes):

    1) Shaving with a straight razor takes a lot more time and patience than with a DE or cartridge. By the time you are ready for the other side, the water dried up there and hairs are going to get pulled (which might end up in a scrape), shave will be lousy, and irritation will go high. An approach is to shave sections of ones face at a time. Don't lather the whole face, but a section. And reapply water constantly to each section as you move on.

    2) Don't go for a fixed number of passes, or change direction per a book's rule or so. Keep in one direction and do all the passes needed until there is no more hair to remove in such direction. Obviously start with the grain. Follow across the grain. Do against the grain where possible. Keep a very sharp angle against the grain.

    3) What helps cut the hair is not the lather, it's the water. The lather helps keep the water in the face longer. Hair is very difficult to cut. Water thickens it and makes it soft for the blade. Make sure the section you are doing your pass is fairly wet before using the blade. Dried up lather is not going to do it.

    4) If one is using carbon steel, one may apply baby oil on the blade after stropping and before storing. Need to remove the oil before stropping and using, with perhaps rubbing alcohol.

    5) I strop the blade constantly. This may not be needed, but it works for me.

    6) Do not judge the blade by it's price or appearance. A GD 208 professionally honed and sharpened is very good. Reportedly it is fine quality carbon steel, and as far as I can tell this seems to be the case. That said, the scales are miserable shit of the worst kind. For plastic, it's even bad plastic. It's embarrassing. But the blade is very real. Changing the scale for something not as crappy is like $19 if I ever want to mod it. One can also take it up a few notches by using whale ivory, extinct rhino horn, tiger fangs, petrified forest wood, or unobtanium ore for the replacement scales. One can also send the blade for personalization by etching one's name or whatever. I do not look down on presentation. It's inviting to shave with a nice razor.

    EDIT: BTW, not trying to be a know-it-all here. Just sharing my notes in hopes this help someone interested in using a straight razor. And if I'm wrong, knowing about it could make my approach better. I'll take note of that as well and mend my evil ways.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2017
  10. Stapsy

    Stapsy Friend

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    Glad to hear the GD is working for you! I am interested to see how it performs over the longer term. The true test of a blade is how long it can keep an edge.

    Right now I am using Barrister & Mann which is an animal based tallow soap and it is really swallowing up a lot more water than I had expected. I am interested to see how tallow soaps compare to glycerin soap.

    So far in my reintroduction to wet shaving I have experienced a little redness and razor burn under my lip and above my chin. I know this can be a sensitive area, but I thought it was weird that I wasn't having any other problems. After looking around online I found some mention of over-stretching the skin causing irritation. I thought this was interesting as the conventional wisdom I heard was to stretch out the skin with no warning of overstrecthing. Anyway, I realized that the area where I was having irritation is the area that I was stretching out the most. I have since dialed back the stretching and have found that I can shave with little to no irritation.

    I also found that the best aftershave for me has been Thayer's Alcohol Free witch hazel. It seems to reduce any redness or irritation and avoid the drying effect of the alcohol based witch hazel. Even in the cold and wind of winter my face hasn't felt dry. I did try adding in some moisturizer but it seemed to make it worse. Hopefully as I improve my shaving technique I will be able to continue improving my face care technique and find something that works out well.
     
  11. ultrabike

    ultrabike Measurbator - Admin

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    With DE razors I usually don't need to stretch my skin that much. With a straight razor there is no option, you gotta stretch the skin. I don't over do it though, and maybe that helps against irritation.

    That said, I think the #1 irritation cause is pressing the blade a little more than it's needed, and stretching my compound the problem. Another problem is that hair tend to be pretty dense under the lip and above the chin. IMO #2 irritation cause is not having enough water on very dense areas. Try adding more water to those areas just before your shave, or start doing that part first when is nice and super damp.

    I actually shifted the order in my straight razor shaving so that I do my chin and mustache first. I make sure those parts a pretty soaked before I shave them and fresh with lather. I do the sides later. I do have a lot of hair in the sides and on my neck, but not as much as around the chin and mustache. The angles can get a bit harder in those areas as well.
     
  12. dark_energy

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    I am still using my Blue Bird blade... They are durable, there is no significant sharpness loss after few shaves. No point of changing often. Cost effective, no? I tried Super Iridium, it was good but not as good for me as the Derby blade.


    Makes me think the Gillette blade I used was made of a subpar 'material.'
     
    Last edited: Feb 11, 2017
  13. Thad E Ginathom

    Thad E Ginathom Friend

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  14. ultrabike

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    Yeah. Seen similar claims. The good 'ol ingrown hairs blame on cartridges. My honest opinion is that while ingrown hairs are not bullshit, the blame on the cartridge type razor is bullshit.

    One can get a very close shave with a cartridge, a DE, and with a bit of elbow grease, a straight razor. Any close shave, from any of the previously mentioned tools, will likely result in ingrown hairs if not careful, and particularly with folks that have propensity to these issues.

    It is however easier to get a lousy shave with a DE, and even easier to completely f**k up the shave with a straight razor. Which given the complete failure to properly remove hair, might result in diminished ingrown hair issues. I mean, don't shave at all and problem is gone right.

    One can also not go too close with a shave while using a cartridge.

    Shit, one time I saw a video of some random dude comparing a cartridge vs a DE. The guy went all gentle and nice while pseudo-shaving with his DE. Switches to cartridge, and Porker pressed the shit out of the head against his head. Dude goes and puts up a show of how he just cut himself so bad. Yeah. Right. Don't buy into this crap guys. I do love shaving with a DE, and a straight razor for that mater. But if you can shave with a DE and a straight razor, shaving with a cartridge is brain-dead simple.

    Again, one does DE because it's nice looking, the blades maybe cheaper, and it's sort of nice. One does straight razor because one gets the "art of shaving" deal. But cartridges are awesome, sweet and simple. Though maybe relatively expensive and polluting, and so I would recommend DE if one can spend the time to actually learn to shave properly. Point is, cartridges are not poor performers in my experience.

    EDIT: So, ingrown hairs. It is a trade off. I would recommend to not go more than one pass and not over do the shave if one has severe ingrown hair problems. This regardless of the type of razor one uses. It may not result in the closest shave of your life, and one may have a 12'oclock shadow more around 10o'clock. But one will reduce irritation and ingrown hair problems. Trade offs IMO.
     
    Last edited: Feb 16, 2017
  15. ultrabike

    ultrabike Measurbator - Admin

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    So tried the Proraso cream:

    https://www.amazon.com/Proraso-Shav...-1-spons&keywords=proraso+shaving+cream&psc=1

    $10 from Amazon.

    Did it shave any better than Cremo or Col. Conk? I would say I got similar performance in terms of shaving. All get the job done rather well. Shave was pretty close (used 3 passes with the Weishi and some random stainless steel cold tempered DE blade - fairly sharp). However, this cream does produce quite a bit of top quality lather.

    That's not what stands out though. Shit, is this refreshing or what! It's got plenty of eucalyptus in it, and as soon as you make the lather it refreshes you all over. After finishing the third pass with my DE I applied cold water to close the pores, as always. Man! Did the water felt extra cold. A really refreshing cream.

    Definitively a recommend.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2017
  16. ultrabike

    ultrabike Measurbator - Admin

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    Well, got another fairly reasonably close shave exclusively with the GD 208 straight razor + Conk Almond Soap. The difference? I actually sharpened the straight razor this time.

    I bought the following 1000/6000 grit not only to give it a go with the GD but also to sharpen my kitchen knives, most of which are dull due to getting hit in the sink (don't put your knives in the sink, they will get dull not because of the water but because of things hitting them).

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01FZZUL30/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    It worked with my kitchen knives. It did not made my GD 208 shave ready.

    So I got this one as well:

    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013G4SD9G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    After some learning (one needs to feel the stone pull the blade a little, the blade should "sing", a 10000 grit does not absorb water, and so forth) it got my GD 208 to shave ready awesomeness.

    $8 bucks for the stone, $5 for the strop, $35 for the GD (shave ready)... Not bad! Recommend the combo here.
     
  17. Thad E Ginathom

    Thad E Ginathom Friend

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    Never used what we Brits call a "cut throat" razor, but... you probably need to strop that thing more often than using a stone on it.

    For reasonably easy sharpening of knives, scissors, and probably razors (just about anything with an edge) I strongly recommend the Spyderco Triangle Sharpmaker. You can use the excellent stones any way you want, but combined with the plastic base's various slots, it makes an easy job of getting the angle right. Kitchen knives can be sharpened to remove-arm-hair sharpness easily. There is a useful slot for the right angle for scissor blades too.

    In the end, I got lazy and bought an electric Chefschoice --- but those who get manic about edges, the Sharpmaker gives a wonderful result!
     
  18. ultrabike

    ultrabike Measurbator - Admin

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    LOL! Yeah. I strop way more often than using the stone.

    I stop the blade before and after use, and sometimes even during use.

    I've heard of the Sharpmaker before. May try it later.
     
  19. JK47

    JK47 Guest

    The Spyderco sharp maker is ok for knives but you're stuck with only 2 angles for sharpening. It would not be wise to sharpen a straight razor with it. However Spyderco makes an excellent ultrafine ceramic stone some people use for straight razors. Others say that their UF stone needs to be lapped as it is not completely flat (manufacture differences/tolerances?) I own both the sharp maker and the UF ceramic stone. Spyderco makes good stuff.

    My foray in straight razors was short, but I plan to revisit them in the future.

    For knife sharpening, I highly recommend the Wicked Edge. I have one and it can make easily repeatable mirror edges on blades at almost any angle. It takes a little practice and patience, but it is easy to learn. It does cost some $$$. Still cheaper than a lot of headphones in today's market.
     
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 27, 2017
  20. Thad E Ginathom

    Thad E Ginathom Friend

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    You are way ahead of me --- which is hardly surprising: it probably would not be possible to use a cut-throat if you weren't!

    Nice. I have often been tempted to buy some of their other stones. I hadn't heard of Wicked Edge. It certainly looks serious.

    By the way, albeit only from net browsing, my dream sharpener would be a Tormek. And I see they have a new model since I last looked :p :D. True, it is just a bit excessive for a couple of kitchen knives, even though they are carbon steel, which needs sharpening often and regularly.

    I am in awe of a couple of friends who can judge and hold angles perfectly for almost any cutting tool. Truth is, I can't: I need either mechanical assistance, or the Spyderco vertical-is-easy-to-judge methodology. I can use stones for course, rough re-shaping, but not the final edge or anything close to it. Both of my friends have professional carpentry experience. One of them, now an accountant, does boat building as a hobby.

    I have used the spyderco triangle stone, flat in its case to sharpen a couple of things, like a dull disposable scalpel blade when I lacked a replacement, but I wouldn't put money on my ability to reliably repeat that.

    Whilst the Spyderco produces an edge that I call beautiful, the electric ChefsChoice machines do not: I do not really like their "trizoid" edges. But the process is easy, and sure, they do cut, easily passing my slither-off-a-ripe-tomato test. And they are not much good for sharpening anything else.
     

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