EC Aficionado (was: The Studio Jr.)

Discussion in 'Headphone Amplifiers and Combo (DAC/Amp) Units' started by AppleheadMay, Nov 10, 2015.

  1. Xecuter

    Xecuter Brush and floss your amp twice a day

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    Understandable mate. I just figured while it was in the USA and with Craig might be a good chance for someone to grab it since Craig can swap voltage and do anything custom.
    I'm probably making a mistake selling it but need funds for ATC upgrade.
     
  2. zerodeefex

    zerodeefex SBAF's Imelda Marcos

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    If I was still in MTV at the G and didn't have two small kids I would have bought it :). I definitely have a picture somewhere of my desk with a dynahi, a KGSSHV, a modded HD800, TH900 and an SR-007 MK1 years back.

    Hilariously, COVID has me WFH using my Yggdrasil > goldpoint > dual Aegir > RAAL SR1A pretty consistently.
     
  3. earnmyturns

    earnmyturns Smartest friend

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    My MTV G setup was "modestly" Soekris dac1541>Neurochrome HP-1>ZMF Verité C as I did not spend long enough at my desk to feel comfortable leaving a tube amp on constantly (not did I have the space, really). I had ordered an ecp DSHA-3F to replace the HP-1 in 2019, but it arrived with COVID, so it never performed at the office. Since WFH, with more space near my desk, tube amps are a lot more attractive, although the 3F also gets a lot of play. I don't have kids around (long grown & gone) but keeping outside sounds out means closed backs (the same ZMF VC).
     
  4. purr1n

    purr1n Desire for betterer is endless.

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    No time. I have boxes of gear I need to go through. Need to be let go by Steve Baller with a silver parachute before I can review one piece of gear per day.
     
  5. gridmaster

    gridmaster Facebook Friend

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    5v4 has twice the drop as a 5ar4(gz34).

    https://300guitars.com/articles/rectifier-tube-voltage-drop-chart/
    The exact vdrop numbers won't apply to your amp, but the ratio between the vdrop does.

    I noticed myself when I owned the Af, that it responds terribly to any hint of vdrop under what as 5a4r can deliver.
    I've tested 5v4,5r4,5u4,5y3 myself with it. Nothing but a gz34 made it sound correct to me.
     
  6. penguins

    penguins Friend, formerly known as fp627

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    A minor note, but if you get a fat base tube, you will need a tube saver or you will need to cut the chassis hole a bit bigger. Got a fat base 5ar4 for my AF and found this out the hard way.
     
  7. jexby

    jexby Posole Prince

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    since Day 1 with my Af, have only truly used Mullard 5AR4 fat base. either f31 or f32 dated, 4 notch.
    bought a legit socket saver from TubeMonger which has been perfect with no flaws or problems, nor distortion.
    I can recommend.
     
  8. fastfwd

    fastfwd Friend

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    So Amp #1 sounded good with RCA/WE/RCA/Yggdrasil, and Amp #2 sounds fuzzy with Sovtek/WE/RCA/DAC1541, correct?

    Seems to me that the first thing to do is swap the RCA rectifier into Amp #2 and see whether that fixes the problem. Because if it doesn't, then the issue is with either the rest of the amp or the DAC -- not the rectifier.

    And if it does fix the problem, then leave the RCA in Amp #2 and try the Sovtek rectifier in Amp #1 -- maybe it'll sound fine there, and you won't have to spend any money. But even if Amp #1 doesn't sound great with the Sovtek tube, you'll only have to buy another RCA 5V4GA to fix it, and those don't cost much.

    Also, if you have an oscilloscope, you can simply look at the power-supply output to see whether the rectifier tube might be causing problems. Unlike signal tubes, with rectifiers you can easily see whether the tube is performing well.
     
  9. earnmyturns

    earnmyturns Smartest friend

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    Thanks! I don't have an oscilloscope, so I have to go by ear. I think I'll have to do a careful tube rolling experiment. I've tried a few combos of all the tubes I have (2 rectifiers, 3 drivers, 3 power) but the total combinatorics are a bit daunting. Not to mention that the driver I'm using in #2, WE 396A, was not too happy on #1 with the RCA rectifier (hum) but it works perfectly on #2 (with Sovtek). OTOH, an Ericsson WE 396A works perfectly on #1. Oh, tubes...
     
  10. earnmyturns

    earnmyturns Smartest friend

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    Two Af questions:

    1) Got a NOS Mullard 5AR4; sounds decent from the start, maybe a bit thin/muffled, but a bit curious about what to expect as it goes through its first 50 hours.
    2) The power supply light on this Af seems to have died at some point during or just after its trip to me. The amp is otherwise fully functional. How tricky would it be to replace it?

    Thanks!
     
  11. penguins

    penguins Friend, formerly known as fp627

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    2. You may know this already, but some of the (I think earlier) units had a very dim light. I thought the light on mine was broken when I first got it but after cupping it with my hand and peeking in, it was on. This was vs the newer units that I had previously seen which used a brighter light inside.
     
  12. jexby

    jexby Posole Prince

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    1. since Day 1 with Af, have always used the older 4 notch , NOS Mullard 5AR4 with a legit socket saver from Tubemonger.
    it never sounded thin or muffled, initially or after burn in.
    even a couple of backup 5AR4 tubes (from ebay), when I trialed them with the socket saver- never sounded this way in the first few days they were in the Af.

    2. older Af have a real "tungsten?" filament bulb IIRC in the power supply.
    newer Af an LED.
    looking at my older Af power lamp now, it is SO faint- that unless i look it dead straight on, in the pupil-
    would swear mine is burnt out also.
    oh well, maybe it's fading into oblivion..... no idea how to replace it.
     
  13. Erroneous

    Erroneous Friend

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    I'm pretty darn sure it's the first 25 amps that have the cooler old-school bulb. Should make it easy to tell which bulb you have, just look at the back of the amp.
     
  14. jexby

    jexby Posole Prince

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    a great piece of synchronicity from my 2 direct EC purchases:
    Black Widow 2 Serial number 14
    Aficionado Serial number 14

    and here they sit, (nearly) side by side to this day.
     
  15. earnmyturns

    earnmyturns Smartest friend

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    Thanks, you are totally right, if I look straight at it with dim room lighting, I see the faint glow. I was looking from the side in normal lighting, which is why I was missing it.
     
  16. earnmyturns

    earnmyturns Smartest friend

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    #19. Reason I got confused is that I have a later Af at my other place, and the power light shows even in daylight.
     
  17. earnmyturns

    earnmyturns Smartest friend

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    Duh, thanks, I just realized I messed up my test. I was using different ZMF Verité closed, with different cable, than what I had been using (long story). I have the other cable with me, and when I switched the cables, thin it is not. The headphones are still different (different wood and pads) but closer to what I expected. Phew.
     
  18. jexby

    jexby Posole Prince

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    hm, let us know what cables exhibited that condition?

    teaser: soon will reveal impressions of Linlai E-2A3 tubes in Af.
    these are the first non NOS 2A3 ever inserted into my Aficionado. the results exceeded expectations.
     
  19. earnmyturns

    earnmyturns Smartest friend

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    From ZMF OFC to ZMF Michanikos (silver). The latter is what I had been using for a long while with a different Verité closed pair. Maybe it's just a matter of auditory habit rather than a key difference.

    I have Psvane ACME 2A3 on my other Af, RCA M-R black plates on this one. I like ACME better, everything seems a bit better defined and placed, as if a slight haze/smearing had been removed. I was contemplating getting ACME for this Af, but now I'm looking forward to your Linlai impressions.
     
  20. Erroneous

    Erroneous Friend

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    I haven't yet seen anyone compare the Acme globes to the EML mesh yet. Anyone have insight on how they compare?
     

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