m17xr2b

I'll take the new production and keep the change for "musical enhancements" known as fine red wines.

And sold for 13K. All ratings are from two months ago, half from two people with copy pasted comments.

It takes two to tango

Usual ebay irrationality. Kinda seen all the time.

ebay protections, especially if buyers have intention of abusing the system maybe?

I gave up trying to understand the strange waves of the bay. Therein lies madness.

Do socket savers count? Granted, i’ve seen some horrific tube adaptor pics, so i appreciate the general concern.

@Cryptowolf savers are fine from a good company such as TubeMonger,they're a solid connection all the way through and nothing can go wrong.
With adaptors the wires are killer,I've had them soldered backwords and destroyed a tube,used the same wire thickness for signal and heater so it either burned out or gave 20% less voltage and destroyed the tube.Then there's the good old short between pins due to poor soldering.

I appreciate the insight. I do have TubeMonger socket savers and a 12x to 12SL7 converter from them.

They either never used proper volume attenuation or are full of shit for shilling.
Cutting bits is the worst way to attenuate volume IMO. Wasting excessive volume as heat is quite bad but can work.
Converting voltage to current is the way to go, inductive or bust. Can't criticise the chord cash cow, can we?

ive got a balanced Icon 4 Pro coming in this week, im excited to see what it can do. When I compared the Wavedream built in volume control versus a Goldpoint, the WD slaughtered it in basically every way

Wooden connectors mostly, foam headband indicates the early version.

@dubharmonic Early impressions are very good, some nice potential here and can't hear many drawbacks. I'm not particular about soundstage and on higher end amps it's far from dark and scales well. Creamy and very smooth without veil or thick mids, reminds me of my LCD3pF, which died and got fazor, ruined everything.

LCD-2.1 and HD600 are the only two headphones that I've sold and repurchased. Sometime the MA-900 call's me again, but I know better :)

^...and a nightclub in Modesto.

It's not about conductivity, it's about magnetic permeability. Silver has 2x the magnetic permeability as copper, and because of that is able to produce better low level info. It's why silver is superior for audio transformers (at least in secondaries), though I'm not sure about in voice coils. Source: http://eddiecurrent.com/228-2/

I might know a guy, but I think he would want to do copper voice coils before the silver stuff seeing as it is an aluminum voice coil to start with

Thankful for both!

Agreed, buying from hificollective sucks now.

https://www.audiophonics.fr/en/ is a good substitute.

So is https://www.don-audio.com.

That is nuts. I am not sure who this is aimed at since I don't wear full size headphones outside. Who is the buyer trying to impress?

Quite possibly the single ugliest pair of headphones I have seen. I'd wear gold Jecklin Floats out and about before this abomination.

More info https://www.headamp.com/products/spirit-torino-valkyria - insane

NOS? Old times dielectrics are goo. Expect to divide the voltage rating by 10 and add a ton of leakage.

Hahahhaa, good one! Outputs more useful information, tbh.
At which point does your wiener tear in half, and what was the sinad at that point?

We need graphs of frequency *and* amplitude at 'clipping'.

There is only one result on any frequency test of Amir, and the result is: "Far too often."

epic...

... fail

And with Sophia Royal Princess, one of the best mids in the business: https://i.imgur.com/Zxwgimy.jpg

Does Pandora get to open the box?

I am feeling dumber for reading that advert. copy. Also, does this make my oak and steel corner desk a “grounding desk”. I mean, it weighs around 100 pounds and last I checked oak was still an insulator.

Well, first thing to check is... have you filled the drawers with earth?

3 words: linear power supply. You’re welcome.

2 words: audiophile pole.

Fuses must be properly aged. Many of my power cables were saved from work, over twenty years ago. They are just beginning to sound right.

I was watching youtube vids to figure out the difference. The cheap multimeter is pretty accurate but you probably shouldn't use it for anything HV. Also the Fluke premium is supposed to have excellent aftermarket service.

I got it with HV in mind e.g. 900V, I fried my other cheap one by probing a 350V FW rectifier which is actually a 700V winding. I do hope it's one of those tools I'll never need to replace. I went for the 17X series just because the newer 11X are no longer US made.

For measuring batteries and other non critical DC voltages this mathcbox is fine. For everything else the Fluke is so worth the money.
I can second the Brymen rec. Certainly quality brand. Also True RMS is not just marketing. The matchboxTM makes a kind of peak detection and calculates based on sine crest to rms ratio. Hardly useful for any other waveform.

You might as well just hang onto it next time. It'll be increasingly harder to find.