The All Purpose Advice Thread

I'm getting a job in the near future that will require a lot of international traveling (and what f'ing timing, eh?), I'll basically be away from home 50% of the time... so I'm now in the market for a pair of CIEMs. I'll be driving them with xDuoo X10T II > Chord Mojo, so sensitivity isn't really a major concern. I'm thinking my budget is $1kish.

In the past I've been really picky about IEMs, and I've hated way more than I've liked, but I've also never really sampled anything $350+. In the past, IEMs I've enjoyed were Etymotics ER4S--I never really found these to sound 'clinical' or 'sterile', to me they were just transparent so whatever timbre the recording had, that was what the ER4S gave me. I also enjoy the ER4XR, but prefer ER4S for its superior transparency and detail. I do like the Moondrop KXXS for its smoothness, solid midrange, and separation/soundstage. My daily driver is the Aurisonics ASG-1+, which I hear as being full, smooth, slightly rolled in the treble, slightly boosted bass, with full, natural vocals (as opposed to the sparkly, V-shaped signature described by shotgunshane).

What I want in IEM sound: Smoothness on the top end is a priority. I'm not asking for CIEMs that are totally immune to sibilance in every single recording, but anything that leans toward bright or aggressive is a non-starter. On the other hand, treble extension and clarity are critical, as without them, everything sounds muted, congested, just bad. I realize this may be walking a fine line, but it's really important to get the treble right. Next most important thing to me is coherence: I listen to a lot of metal and otherwise chaotic, busy music, so the ability to maintain separation and imaging quality while being assaulted by frequencies across the board is really, really important. In the midrange, I am a fan of organic, realistic, natural over neutral... but either one is fine, as long as mids aren't recessed, distant, thin, etc. I'll take good timbre and smooth treble over insane detail retrieval any day. As for bass, I'm not a basshead and I'm not terribly picky, but it should at least extend well and have a good grasp on speed and texture. Any bass bleed/bloat is a non-starter (see above re: coherence), although a tasteful boost to the bass over mid/treble is ok.

What I hate in IEM sound: I violently dislike IEMs with a recessed midrange. There is nothing more horrible to my ears than having to strain to hear distant, thin-sounding instruments and vocals through an assault of bass and treble. I can tolerate the KZ ZSX, but would never use them as a daily driver. I have very little faith in most manufacturers to create an IEM that doesn't suck in the midrange in one aspect or another, for some reason it seems like the temptation to either push the mids back or pull them too forward, or to make them "warm" (muddy) is just too strong for most. A lack of treble extension is a non-starter, as this has never sounded right to me, and being IEMs they should be trying to give off as much air and sense of space as possible since they are restricted in soundstage size.

Maybe I won't get everything I want, but as long as I can get reasonably close, I think I'll be okay. I really do insist on having CIEMs, since otherwise I use Dekoni Bulletz which need replaced too often to seriously travel with--I'd end up spending a TOTL CIEM worth of $$ on tips within a few years. Silicone tips are fine, but for me IEMs are very sensitive to tip rolling and FR can quickly turn to shit with slightly off positioning... sound quality wise, I find the Dekoni Bulletz to be far superior to any silicone, and more consistent, but I'm not willing to carry three pairs of tips with me per two week trip to wherever I'm going to be.

 

Just tossing this in because I've had reason to look into it myself: you can get custom-fit Etymotics with relatively little hassle (given you're living in the USA, I mean, and looking it up on Ety's site there are 5 locations in CT that offer the service: https://www.etymotic.com/storelocator). I haven't tried nearly enough IEMs to be able to just point at one and say it's golden, not to mention my preferences are a little different (hah!), but I figure getting the Ety sound you love and custom tips may well be a win/win situation where you don't end up spending nearly as much as you'd expect.

https://www.etymotic.com/consumer/custom-fit

P.S.
Yeah, excellent timing for a job that involves travel. Yikes. Keep safe!

 

I've actually given this some thought and I think it's a solid plan, especially considering that one of the barrels on my ER4S is cracked... I'll probably have them converted into full customs at some point regardless because, y'know, what the hell else am I going to do with them? At the end of the day though, I wouldn't say I love the sound of the ER4S... among the IEMs I've heard, it's been one of the best, if for nothing more than its speed and transparency. I also give it points because the diffuse field tuning sounds more 'correct' to me than others. Still, while I mentioned that it doesn't sound utterly clinical/analytical to me like it does to others, they're still too much for some music.

It's like how the ZMF Atticus are my daily drivers, but the HD800 are absolutely incredible when the production quality is up to snuff and I feel like diving into every detail. Well, the ER4S are like the HD800 here... great for some stuff, but I still need a daily driver.

 

I'm thinking of grabbing a used Metrum Amethyst & wanted to ask if there are any superior options(<$700) I'm blanking on right now. I've been recommended MHDT but I can't get past the aesthetic. I've thought about the Airist R2R but they're hard to get. I've previously owned the Metrum Flint and enjoyed it, I know I like NOS DACs. The Metrum is tempting in that it could be used as an AIO making my HP amps redundant.

What I'm hoping to achieve with my purchase is to push my system towards a relaxed, smooth, decay focused direction. My listening is a mix of poorly mastered metal, simple piano/organ music, gaming, and skype calls. The single instrument music could use more decay/bloom; for everything else I'm trying to take the edge off.

I currently use motherboard audio -> Asgard 3/La Figaro 332C -> Audeze LCD2C Closed.
What holds me back is that the Asgard 3 is close enough to what I'm looking for(a bit tight, lacking decay) that I wonder if I'd be happy just throwing a cheaper DAC in front of it. On the other hand if I can get the traits I like from the Asgard in a DAC it gives me more freedom to play with cheap tube/hybrid amps where bloom is a given(the 332C has bloom but is overall too energetic & dynamic for my taste.)

 

As a former Airist owner and current Amethyst owner, I can say don't sweat the Airist. It's great, but I think you get more of what you're looking for from the Amethyst. I found Airist to have a more forward/energetic character which I enjoyed for a lot of things but suppose could be described as edgy compared to Metrum.

Just know the Amethyst, though, isn't a huge upgrade over the Flint. I owned both and didn't detect a ton in the way of consistent difference. Ended up keeping the Amethyst, but it's a fairly small delta.

I guess the only other thing <$700 would be Bifrost2 or maybe a used pre-Unison Gungnir MB. But if you know Schiit's not your thing, it's not your thing. And while I still sometimes miss Gungnir bass, I get a better sense of space (i.e. decay) with Metrum.

As for Asgard 3, I owned one for a while and really liked it but did find it a big homogenizing compared to Gilmore Lt MkII and WHAMMY which were both more revealing of DAC differences.

 

Did your flint have the DACI or DACII modules? Mine had the I modules which makes it more in line with a Musette than an Amethyst(supposedly.) Either way it's a sound I know I like + a serviceable HP jack. I know I'll be happy with it but I would also be happy with a OS DAC with a good quality slow filter; I just don't know anything off hand with selectable filters in my price range past SMSL/Topping(and I've already been down that rabbit hole.)

I've not heard a Schiit DAC since the OG Bifrost but I don't think I'd like them due to what I read about their bass. I really don't like bass that calls attention to itself and it sounds like they're more dynamic down low than average.

 

Yeah, I think Schiit is refined since OG days but the basic flavor probably remains.

My Flint had the DAC 1 modules. But I'm not sure that the (small) sound quality difference between Flint and Amethyst isn't just as much about the better power supply -- it's a way beefier unit, even taking into account the headphone amp portion.

And speaking of, "serviceable" covers it but I never find myself using it. So be careful if you're buying an Amethyst with the expectation of recouping some costs by selling off your Asgard.

 

A buddy of mine is contemplating a first headphone setup. He wants over-ears and would like to spend less than $250, ideally closer to $200.

I was thinking a used Fulla 2 with Drop HD58x.

Any opinions of that combo or other options?

 

He could grab a B-Stock Fulla 2 right now for $69 (only 2 left in stock). Haven't heard the 58X, but he could always start with a Porta Pro and then save up for a 6XX or 6X0.

 

Ahh good point on the b-stock, thanks! Like I said though, he really wants over-ears, but is looking for something light as well, which is why I was thinking used 58x maybe. Another I was thinking could be the HFM HE400i (although I get concerned about build quality issues with used HFM).

 

Another possibility for cans is Senn 569 refurb direct from Senn at $109 now on ebay. Grab an ifi Zen and use til he can afford a better amp. I like the zen as dac over the modi 3, fwiw, both great entry dacs, but with the zen you get decent enough power and okay SQ for something efficient like the 569. Right at top of budget though.

 

The Zen is a smart choice for this because of the switchable bass boost -- I feel like that's important for a lot of people new to headphones in general and Senn in particular. (Yes, I know Senn have bass, but maybe not 'consumer bass.')

 

Is it ok to plug 2 of these into 1 power outlet

https://www.amazon.com/Furman-SS-6B-PRO-6-Outlet-Protector-2-Pack/dp/B088KSG7LD

using a power outlet splitter like this?

https://www.amazon.com/Conntek-RL-30104-3-Prong-Outlet-Adapter/dp/B00BHGY37C

or maybe there’s a better splitter out there?

 

What's the total power rating of everything you're connecting downstream?

 

I have no idea. My whole rig. 789, lcx, Loki, RDAC, Metrum Amethyst, SOHA1, 2 MacBook Airs, multiple iOS devices, battery charger.

I think that’s it unless I find a gungnir.

if the only risk is blowing a fuse I’m fine. This and one other outlet in the room go straight to the street and arent shared Witt any other rooms or outlets.

but just want to make sure about SQ given the weird ass noise I’ve got in my system. (That’s why I want to switch to these power strips from my cheap one but they don’t have quite enough outlets hence plugging in 2. The other socket in the outlet in the wall is taken for iOS devices and my laptops with an UPS)

 

I would check out Furman power conditioners. I've been using a PST-8D for 4 years and it has eliminated all power related noise for me.

 

God this hobby is so expensive! Is there a furman power conditioner with moar outlets?

 

In my defense, I paid under $100 for mine 4 years ago, they have gone up quite a bit since.

As for more than 8 outlets, that is the maximum amount they have on one device as far as I can tell.

 

@rhythmdevils

If I remember my math correctly a 15 amp wall outlet will supply up to a max of 1800 watts. ( EDIT: only 1800 on one circuit going to a duplex outlet, thanks @Armaegis Two outlets on a duplex means double it).

Plug dac, amp, and any analog stuff into a clean (circuit) line that you are adding a power conditioner to because of some noise on the line. Try to keep all switchers off of it and use the dirty outlet in the room and some sort of cheap isolating power conditioner like the OneAC or the like for the computer stuff and battery charger and all the other switchers.

A used PowerVar or OneAC can be found on ebay for $50 or so depending on amperage.

Not sure what noise you are trying to filter on the clean stuff but I think folks have given you some suggestions. Tripplite stuff that may address your needs is no nonsense and not audiophile priced. Hope this helps.

 

A duplex outlet does not necessarily mean it can handle double the power. They can be wired for double, but in my experience they usually aren't. Sometimes the live end is doubled, but then the neutral is only a single which is stupid because that defeats the purpose of having the double on the live end (discovered this the fun hard way when replacing some old outlets at my parent's place).