Solder and Soldering Irons

I almost bought a "fume extractor", but instead started using my 3m big box store painter's mask when I solder.
Its the higher end type, think they cost around $50.
As I've aged, I find I'm more susceptible to dust and solder fumes, and now I'm using the mask for most of my diy activities, including chassis building (drilling, sanding, etc) and soldering. Assembly is only time I'm not using it these days.
I must look like a dweeb, and its kind of a pain, but I'd rather breath without coughing so I use the mask.

Randy

 

Man, I started sweating in my 66F office when I saw your 28C temperature. No way I could do that.

Adding to the thread, I recently got this guy to replace the stock stand of my Metcal SP-200. Wanted an integrated solder spool holder since I have limited desk space. Had to modify it a little with some plumber's putty since my Metcal handle is a little slimmer than regular ones. For $15, a very nice ergonomic addition to my kit. I also grabbed one of these when stuffing some boards, as I was having a little trouble making out the writing on some components.

 

28C is just-about-ok with me. 27C is better. But heck, there's no way I would want a forge in the room!

I've been known to roast a chicken when it was 40C outside. But hey, I'm British. And wearing boxer shorts.

Mad dogs and Englishmen

 

What you know about heat
I had to in the generator room of a radio relay station in the Karakum desert.
In the generator room was +70C. Selenium rectifiers burst. The stench was terrible. We changed them.
Outside the hall was +55C. +55C seemed cool to us

 

70C is beyond deadly. Actually, so is 55C!

Mid 50s has been the temperature in Bihar, India, and 100 people died in 72 hours. Of course that would be only the ones they counted.

 

Yes, it was very uncomfortable. 1983. But we were young. Now would I perhaps died

I found a video for you that you can work in any heat. Joke of course

 

For the past few years, I've been using a cheap, hobby king soldering station. Before that, for many, many years, I had a Hakko station. The Hakko was used and kind of old when I bought it, but served me well for over 10 years.
The hobby king has stopped holding temps well, and its not worth it to try to work with an iron like that.

I broke down and ordered a new Hakko FX-888D station. I plan to get a really small tip for surface mount, and a large tip for when I need heat like working with large gauge wire. Also a angled tip seems like it would be nice to have.

Randy

 

I've been using a Hakko 936 for 13 years now, and it still works as great as the day I bought it, one of my best tool investments. The 888D should serve you well!

I really like the T18-D08 for reasonably small work. I don't like the T18-BL; it's too pointy, I can't get good contact with the pads, and it doesn't seem to hold heat long enough for soldering to ground planes.

 

So can you do small surface mount with the D08? Building a board right now with 0603 resistors and caps, so things are pretty small.

I may still try the little angled BR02 tip which is 0.2mm, so same size as BL. Also going to get the D08 per your recommendation, and maybe a C4 for my big tip. I think it comes with a D16, which is what I would call medium size for general work, most through hole stuff.

Randy

 

At 0603, my limitation is me, rather than the soldering iron! But yes, I do personally prefer the D08, the flat surface of the chisel/bevel seems to be what makes the difference for my technique.

The BR02 is interesting. Could be really handy for difficult spots.

 

I'm building one of these headphone protection boards.
The resistors are a challenge as they are close together, and really small.
If there are groups of resistors, I have to be a little strategic about which one to install first, going from inside out if that makes sense.

Looking at the T18-BL tip, its long and skinny. Not a great combination for heat conduction. So the shorter fine tips might work better. I'll see how the BR02 does.

 

I have an easier time with something like the D08 vs super skinny needle tip like the BL as well.

I usually just use the iron and so far it's never been a problem but I have a project currently that really has me thinking about using hot air/solder paste... (& tweezers)
I'll probably try the iron first... but I have my doubts about my ability to do this properly with an iron.


that's just the board for the microcontroller unit ;/ there's random 0603 bits all over the other boards too but I have np doing that I'm just worried about this area above ic1 really...

 

I've also been considering getting a hot air setup for a while, just pulled the trigger on a cheap 858d clone and some kester paste. Should be easier for these tiny parts that are close together.

 

I acquired this "used" Weller WTCPS 25 years ago. Aside from from two heating element and several tip replacements, it's served me well using Kester solder.

 

I like Hakko, but warm up time is not as great and consistant temp was also not as great. And changing tips is not as great either. And then there is the base station and such.

Anyone that is getting into soldering or anyone that has a desk setup and wants something more portable, I am really enjoying my Pinecil (TS100 clone)

For those that don't know about TS100's, they run on a variety of DC power bricks, like laptop power supplies, and the heating element, tip, and temp sensor are made as one piece. They have a display and can do things like sleep mode when you set them down so it does not burn your tip, burst mode for tricky soldering (like on grounds), and other cool stuff with the firmware. The temp buttons are right there. They are super handy in the field, and I got the Pinecil version because it can run on USB-C power supplies and even USB-C battery bricks. They heat up SUPER fast, and it and different tips are super cheap as well. I am finding I am much more efficient and use less heat than I did with my Hakko.



About the only drawback I have found is that some larger solder jobs it just not have the current. For most small things, it is just fine.



You can get them from Amazon, although may ship from overseas. For mine, I did get the board to reprogram the Firmware, but I have not done that yet. That is about the only difference between the Pinecil and the TS100, is that on the TS100 the USB-C port is ONLY for reprogramming firmware, but on the Pinecil, you can use the barrel connector or the USB-C for power delivery, but need the breakout board for reprogramming.

 

Long overdue update on my Hakko FX-888D station. Haven't used for surface mount yet, been working on smart home projects recently that are only through hole. But really like the iron. Feels solid, heats quickly, and like that it displays temp. My cheap chinese iron died, so it was good timing getting the hakko.
So based a few small projects I 've used it on so far, I'd recommend for someone willing to spend a little more for a nicer iron.

For stuff that you are going to use, IMHO its usually worth it to buy nice tools. Sometimes hard for me because I'm cheap. I bought a Dewalt cordless screwdriver last Nov. Their lower end, but still nice. Was so worth it.

Randy

 

I agree absolutely. I have switched to the Pinecil myself from the TS100. I can get more power from the Pinecil: 48 W for the Pinecil vs. ~30 W for the TS100. Not sure why since the TS100 is attached to a bench power supply capable of 24V at 4 A. The TS100 would transient peak a little above 1 A.

Also, the Pinecil is like $25, about half a TS100. Needs a minimum of an 18W charger. Works much better with 48W or higher charger.

I power my Pinecil from a USB-C charger. The charger is PD/QC3-compliant with up to 100W for PD mode. The Pinecil will draw 48 W as shown on its display. I am running ironOS 2.18 (used to be called RalimOS and 2.19 is now out). The Pinecil can use the TS100 tips without any issues.

I haven't tried anything really big, but I'm having an easier time working with large ground planes. Not sure why I am getting higher and more even power draw for the Pinecil. The TS100 SHOULD be able to match the Pinecil in power usage.

I believe the breakout board is only necessary if you want to use the RISC processor to do other things. Yes, one of the selling points of the Pinecil soldering iron is as a development board for RISC-V applications. If you simply want to update the OS, you just need to run the firmware update app.

https://github.com/pine64/pine64_updater/releases/tag/1.0.3

Download the latest ironOS for the Pinecil

https://github.com/Ralim/IronOS/releases

Generally, the English firmware is called "Pinecil_EN.dfu". The software should only allow you to select the dfu file.

Open the app and follow the directions.
1. Hold the down the "-" button, and plug in the USB. Make sure nothing is connected to the barrel jack. The software should auto-detect when the Pinecil enters DFU mode
2. Select Firmware and upload.
3. Unplug USB

 

Thanks to @Cspirou for indicating this thread to me.

Having been a cable hobbyist for more years than I care to remember but now operating as a fulltime business since the beginning of the year I thought I would take advantage of tax refunds claimable on equipment used as part of a business.
Apart from purchasing some nice new headphones (purely for research purposes you understand :] ) I thought I would also invest in some new tools.

The KSGER T12 solder station has proved an eye-opener from years of using Wellers and Hakkos.
It's totally customisable is super reliable and is now my go-to solderer!
The tips are amazing and last a lifetime. I bought multiples about a year ago thinking I would burn my way through some of them but no, whatever they're made of - tungsten carbide or so, they have lasted longer than I anticipated!
Using a 'K' tip (knife) set to 420 deg C to tin the ends of enamelled UPOCC is simplicity, whereas before I would have had to heat up the solder bath and keep it on (expensive), now I just put a large blob of solder on the flat blade of the K tip and feed the wire through so that it removes the enamel and tins the end in one easy manouvre!

Relatively cheap from Aliexpress and also comes in kit form.
There are several videos on youtube advising a ground mod but if you go for the one with the plastic case, or just do the mod on the metal case you should be good to go!

Highly recommended.