Okay that got a proper chuckle out of me, much needed :))
I admit ignorance on a great many basics of how gear works so I feel the need to get fact checked from time to time. Was just concerned plugging this straight into the wall might cause issues down the line.
Oh just to be clear, I was looking for a 10A since I figured I might as well get as close as possible to the cable I got with the Bifrost after I had the voltage changed. Guy was trying to sell a 20A and said it wouldn't have made a difference, I was thinking along the same lines as you @Cspirou, though it wasn't as precise in terms of numbers :))
"Current ratings are important for amplifiers but you can pretty much ignore it for DACs" This, I did not know. Learned something new again today, though I suspect I probably should have known this by now, haha. Grazie!
P.S.
Cold BiMB is as fun as I remember. My cans are already pretty shit at treble and this exacerbated the problem, especially since I used Victorious by P!atD as my first track. Murder on my ears.
I think current rating for cables is only truly important when you use them with power amps for speakers, and then you run into an entirely different universe of issues altogether. Like Cspirou said, either one is massively overkill for your needs.
Haha! Only up to the point where it crosses over into "bloody trash fire" territory, then I'm good :P
I've had the opportunity to try a few DACs over the last year or so and realised the BiMB has definite failings. Been thinking of finding something cheaper since money would be nice but I'll miss the presentation, plus it's got sentimental value since I got it off a cool dude.
Also, looking over my components, my rig is all over the place. I've had a lot less time to listen lately but the sound is relatively close to what I'm into with some elbow grease, so I can tolerate it.
Only really matters for fuses, BTW. There, if you buy a bigger than original you have the possibility that some issue might kill something important inside instead of the fuse.
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