Comments on Profile Post by Josh83

Long story short, it was listed as 120v, but the sticker on the back says 220v. However, I opened it up and *I think* it matches the 120v images online, not the 220v ones.

Here’re the photos of my unit’s board:
https://ibb.co/qgqqzZ7
https://ibb.co/wJwGzT0

Here’s a photo of someone else’s 120v:
https://live.staticflickr.com/8331/8133471109_46d1cbc42b_b.jpg

Here’s a photo of a 220v:
https://www.hi-fi.ru/upload/iblock/95a/95a5bb093ed74b7ce44b7b29fb411878.jpg

To my civilian eyes, there are resistors on the two 115v spots on the board on mine and on the other 120v unit’s board, and there’s a resistor on the 230v spot on the 220v unit. That indicates mine is 120v, correct?

Is there a better way to figure this out?

Finally, here’s the schematic:
https://elektrotanya.com/parasound_dac-2000_sch.pdf/download.html

It looks like it was a 230V unit in the beginning, and then the previous owner converted it to 115V. There's solder residue in the 230V resistor holes, so it's probably a DIY job. You could convert it back to 230V if you want to.

I wanted a 120v one. So it looks like I'm good to go?

I'm mostly sure it's good. From the picture, the soldering job looks a little poor. It's blur to tell if the soldering pads are touching. Even if they are, they are probably already touching internally, which would be fine. If possible, double check with the seller about what they did to the unit.

Do you want me to take a better photo of the soldering job? I just asked the seller. Turns out they were using it 120v and didn't even notice the sticker on the back. So it must've been a while ago that someone converted it.

Since it worked for the seller, the soldering job should be fine. It makes sense the pads are internally connected for the ease of drawing. Have fun listening!