That's another data point for open baffles. For me it's no longer a question of 'If' but 'When' I am going to do this. When my favorite objective leaning builder and my favorite subjective leaning builder both like open baffles, I have to take notice.
Do it! Be sure to use huge woofers, 15"+. My FE83En will get replaced soon and then I'll have efficiency issues in the bass. I really like the idea of using only the baffle rolloff for the widebander. Most pure approach (and it allows you to make it time-coherent).
Thanks for the links and suggestions fellas. I guess the hardest part for me is trying to figure out a passive crossover for integrating woofers/tweeters. Any suggestions? I did learn basic circuits during physics in college; it's been some time, but it shouldn't take long to pick it up again.
It's not just about drivers. The baffle shape effects the frequency response as well. You basically need to take measurements with a microphone after you've settled on an enclosure before you even begin to figure out what the crossover you need is. Thats why it's usually better to go for a kit where someone has figured that out. Or minidsp is the meantime.
@Cspirou Yes, absolutely. It also matters a lot at what distance you take the measurements and at what distance you can realistically take them without getting too many reflections. Baffle step simulations are very simple, though. The correct driver distance is very important for a crossover. Because of the OB rolloff the woofer usually has to be at least 6db more sensitive than your widebander/midrange.
But to be honest, it's not that hard, it just needs a lot of time. It also helps if you already have a few crossover parts lying around that you can quickly solder for testing (like I did). I managed to get a somewhat decent crossover, so it's definitely worth trying. You just have to know what you want.
Any recommendations regarding drivers for a beginner's build? Trying to be as cheap as possible so I can get a feel for this before committing to pricier parts.
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