Post Your Computer Build

Discussion in 'Geek Cave: Computers, Tablets, HT, Phones, Games' started by The Alchemist, Oct 8, 2015.

  1. TwoEars

    TwoEars Friend

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    2x1080Ti & i9 cpu... that's one hell of setup you've got cooking there... wowser. :)

    Well, on most motherboards you have two slots that are going to be dedicated for SLI and those are the ones you'll want to use. Typically there will be one slot of space in between the GPU's and as you already know that's a good thing for air circulation. So you don't want to block that space unless you're doing some serious custom loop water cooling. Also - if you're using those two SLI graphic card slots there will typically be a SLI bridge included in the package from your motherboard supplier that fits and the spacing won't be a problem. Is there a problem? It shoudn't be... the SLI bridge from your motherboard manufacturer should fit.

    Then the Lynx card is only 1x so that can be placed either above or below the graphics cards, but I'm betting above might be your best option.

    The 4x SSD card is the tricky one. Have you looked in your motherboard manual to check how many lanes are available when using both SLI spots? Cause that is the deal breaker. You need to find some option where you have 2x8 lanes for you gpu cards and also 4x for your SSD card. It varies a bit from motherboard to motherboard, is that in your manual somewhere?

    There are also PCI extension kits: https://www.google.se/search?client...1c.1.64.psy-ab..0.2.83...0i30k1.0.X42FGaAb6Y0

    That can be an option if you're really tight on space and want to improve air circulation.

    The two SLI cards shouldn't be problem. The problem might be how to retain PCI lanes and air circulation while installing both an audio card and an SSD card.
     
    Last edited: Jan 11, 2018
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  2. A1Gear

    A1Gear Almost "Made"

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    Here is a close-up of my Mobo:
    [​IMG]

    This Mobo is designed to have a Total of: 44 PCIe (3.0) Lanes direct from the i9 CPU. (spanning across only those 4 grey PCIe slots).
    The only other slot is the PCIe x4 (2.0) that is ran direct from the ICH X299 chipset... I think it's separate from the 44 CPU Lanes and also handles SATA and possibly USB3 and this x4 Slot as well, on it's own, as I understand it.

    I checked before online and everyone else runs 2 GPU's in Slot #1 & #4. (so grey Slot #1 & #3).

    This Mobo, also supports 2 GPU's to be ran at full (x16 + x16 = 32) Lane bandwidth.

    I think the other remaining 12 PCIe CPU Lanes will be used for:
    Intel Optane 900P PCIe SSD (x4 Lanes),
    USB 3.1 Connections (x4 Lanes?),
    And IF I plug the Lynx card into a grey PCIe (CPU Lanes) Slot... it might also take x4 lanes by default, but I'm not sure. So I'll probably just plug the Lynx into the ICH x4 (Chipset) Slot.
    This should give me just enough lanes to use the GPU's in full Bandwidth/SLI mode, I think...

    But this is where you and I completely agree: Air Flow would be more of an issue, at least for GPU #1 up top.
    What do you think @TwoEars could I try doing?
    __________

    SLI Bridges: As I read it from a last year's Article, I shouldn't use the Asus's Pre-bundled SLI bridges. As they're not the proper High-Bandwidth ones, even though it says they are, this is where all the confusion comes in.

    I need to find that Article again, as I can't seem to find it atm, but there should be multiple sources on this HB SLI Bridge issue w/ default Mobo flex-bridges. (I think part of the benchmarks/tests from AnandTech or BitTech on SLI Bridges maybe?)

    But Nvidia seems to also recommend to specifically use their own or their competitors' Discreet SLI Bridges. For whatever illogical reason, so I'm thinking just to buy several EVGA & Nvidia & Asus Bridges and just return the ones that won't work. It's just a pain in the ass to try finding they all, let alone, available for Sale on Newegg/Amazon.
    __________

    I completely agree about the air-flow necessity, especially since I'll have a regular, air-cooled, dual-GPU config; that's why this is sooo very god-damn tempting, as I'll pretty much have to make one more (giant-leap) step forward w/...
    But it will just cost sooo much more money, and would necessitate another extra & separate Chassis chamber (which, coincidentally, is being build, just in case, as well, by CaseLabs).

    It would probably cost over $1.2k to $1.5k for a dual Water-Block/Reservoir/Volute/Pump/Rad/Fans & a separate Bitspower Fittings pipe-run... with the Extra Chamber, in Total. :(
    Would be out of my budget too, unless I go all out and fuck over my other plans/projects, and dump everything into this PC, it's so tempting, but guhhh I dunno, man.

    But it seems like it would eliminate all of the air circulation/cooling/heat issues for me, that you've warned me about, especially when using 2 PCIe Cards in-between the 2 GPU's. Oh man I'm trying hard to fight (my wallet) not to do it, but I so want to just pull the trigger and just go all out on Liquid-Cooling the CPU and Both GPU's.

    Guh, the struggle is real! @TwoEars What do you think I should do, on the GPU Air vs Water Cooling vs Cost, let alone the whole added complexity and all, for someone who never build a PC before? :confused:
    ________

    Oh! Unless I plug the Intel Optane SSD into the very last PCIe grey slot #5 ???

    And perhaps leave the Lynx in that short black ICH chipset Slot, while trying to divert more Air-Flow onto & towards the First GPU, that would get squeezed out w/ airflow... but I guess not as bad as, if it also had an Intel SSD inside grey Slot #2?

    We're definitely on the cusp of solving it all, but man, would a full-out GPU/CPU Liquid Cooling Loop be badass & "cool" on the PC Temps under load, and let alone, eliminate most of the, if not all the Air-Flow issues/worries! :rolleyes:
     
  3. bengo

    bengo Friend

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    Yep, cooling is also about having a large volume of fresh air in and out, with a good flow internally. Take a look inside a 1U server, if you get the chance. So, for example intelligent/tidy cable management, not very sexy but can make a difference. Did you think about putting the Lynx card in an external chassis? (or simply build the PC without it initially, which costs nothing)

    Maybe there are also custom heatsink / fan available for your GPUs, if not now then as a future improvement.

    At least you have a nice big case.
     
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  4. TwoEars

    TwoEars Friend

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    @A1Gear

    Ah, you've got one of those boards with even spaced PCI-E slots. Now I see your predicament. However - if you have an included SLI bridge from your motherboard manufacturer that fits I would just use that one. The difference in performance between regular and "high-bandwith" SLI should be marginal. Here's a guy I found on youtube:

    If you really want a high-bandwidth one I think this 2-slot spaced one is what you need? https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Bridge-Slot-Spacing-100-2W-0027-LR/dp/B01HIS30VC

    So what I would do would be to fit the GPU's in grey slots 1 & 3 for air flow. Then I'd probably put the Intel Optane 900P in the black 4x slot in the middle. Then to preserve air flow to the bottom GPU card I'd look into getting a powered riser and mount the audio card somewhere else in the chassi. Maybe there is space below or on the side. Something like this perhaps: https://www.amazon.com/6-Pin-Powere...9662&sr=1-2&keywords=pci+powered+riser+single

    Since you're going to have quite a lot of equipment in a tight space it might also not be a bad idea to check your fans in that area. If you computer case allows for the installation of a side fan I'd go for that. You want air flowing on your Optane drive, over the top of the graphics cards and ideally also over the motherboard behind the graphics cards. This can be a tricky area to cool but your motherboard and components will thank you for it in the long run. There are some options like this and they aren't a bad idea: https://mnpctech.com/chassis-coolin...uthbridge-card-cooling-fan-mount-bracket.html

    Not critical to get such a fan right away but it's a good idea for the long run. I wouldn't bother with water cooling unless you want the looks. Air cooling done right is really good these days and basically maintenance free and quieter than most water setups when the pump is running. My own rig is all Noctua 140mm PWM fans and a DH15 cpu cooler. It's damn quiet and damn cool running and no need to worry about water leaks, pump failure or changing the water or anything like that. Water is cool and all if you want to go for the looks, or break bench records, but for everyday practical use good air cooling is far and away my preference.

    Of course your i9 cpu is a real beast so I can see why you're running water on that one, especially if you want to OC it a bit.

    Hope that helps?
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018
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  5. A1Gear

    A1Gear Almost "Made"

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    @bengo & @TwoEars Indeed, thank you for the suggestions. I totally agree on a proper Air Flow & Circulation.

    I'll have it leaning towards a "Positive Air Pressure", a good bit, I'll be using the "Demcifilter" (better-quality magnetic dust-filters) for every Intake of a Fan.
    _____________________________
    Current CPU Liquid-Cooling Setup:

    ● Dual-Pump Volute on a big fat Reservoir, pushing water-flow upwards into a separate compartment, up top, that has a Quad 140mm (560mm) EK Radiator w/ Push/Pull Config w/ 8 Noctua Fans, pushing hot air up & out. Oh and the Fittings and Piping are all gonna be Brass-core & Nickel outer-layer, so that should also help cooling the Loop while it's being circulated. basically it's a 100% all-metal-fittings, fully-modular, no-tubing Loop.
    ______________________
    Current Fan Setup will be:

    8x (140mm) Fans on CPU Rad (Push/Pull Loop), separated & up top.

    3x (140mm) Fans on the very Front of the Chassis. (Intake).

    1x (140mm) Fan on the very Back of the Chassis (Exhaust).

    3x (120mm) Fans on the "Mid-Floor" of the Primary Mobo Compartment... (Intake) that are pushing the air upwards and right into the GPU/Card Mobo area.

    2x (120mm) Fans on the "Mid-Ceiling" of the Primary Mobo Compartment (Exhaust)... that are pulling the 'whatever-left-of-the'... "Hot Ambient Air" up & out, right into the big-ass, (mostly empty) Compartment up top, that does have the CPU Rad way up on the top, probably ~120mm away & w/ Dual-Ventilated Case Sides through the whole length.

    1x (120mm) Fan, that is mounted into the HDD bay all the way at the (another) Separated, Bottom-Compartment, where 2x Modular PSU's will be, along w/ the the mentioned Quad HDD Bay and this Fan up-front (Intake), that's cooling the HDD's and PSU a bit more. While exhausting the air via the Dual-Ventilated Case Sides, as well.
    _____________________

    The thing is that I don't like the idea of putting any Cards Externally via PCI Extension Kits, like you @bengo & @TwoEars (linked) & suggested to me.

    Just call me paranoid or simply cause that would look (imho) so damn weird w/ PC guts outside hanging by a "PCIe umbilical cord" or in its separate "Lynx-Box".
    But I can always just not have the Lynx card in the PC at all until I figure out the proper Placement vs Air-flow issues.

    Perhaps I can use a PCI extension kit to just "re-route" the Lynx further down the Mobo edge, at the bottom #5 PCIe Slot but interconnected w/ the short-black #3 PCIe Slot.

    I'm not sure on what to do, yet. But thank you, fellas, for the great & interesting suggestions! As I don't think I ever considered it before. Now I'll probably go w/ it (PCIe extension kits) if all else fails.
    _____________

    @bengo The case is HUGE indeed, so anything should fit without issues... but this GPUs are both: EVGA "KINGPIN" edition.
    So they have a really fancy Copper Heatsink/3xFan Shroud-setup build-in w/ a Backplate; also the PSU connectors, are on the back of the GPU's, for easier cable placements... I really, like 'em & wanted to actually keep the GPU's Shrouds w/ Air-flow cooling, NOT Liquid Cooling. Cause they cost so much already ($1k each). :(

    But EKWD brand does have 1080ti Fully-Nickel Full-length GPU Blocks; but I just can't figure out which one is for my Kingpin Card & not the FTW3 editions or other ones, since they are actually physically different boards/placements.

    Plus the extra cost of GPU Liquid-Cooling is astronomical atm! :mad:
    Or I'm just absolutely fucking nuts for wanting such a high-end GPU Loop... for my first time PC-building project. Or both, yup, definitely both! :)

    This is gonna be a wonderful cluster-fuck of accidents and mess-ups during my build, I can feel it. LOL

    Edit: Ahh! @TwoEars Ninja-ed me w/ a big post woops! :p Erm, I'll have to come back later, to read it all, through, as I gotta go out atm. Thank you though!
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018
  6. A1Gear

    A1Gear Almost "Made"

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    Perfect, thank you @TwoEars, I was also thinking of getting that exact same EVGA (2-Slot Spacing) Bridge (v27), that you recommended.
    So, I'll get them both, just in case, to be sure, and return whichever one won't work:

    EVGA Bridge: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814998131
    Nvidia Bridge: https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16814998147
    ___________________

    About the Air-Flow / Circulation (issues/worries), like you mentioned, @TwoEars specifically, at the Mobos Bottom & over the top of the Intel Optane SSD & between 2 GPU's... I did list pretty much everything w/ how my whole Fan-placement/Circulation/Air-pressure & Air-flow would be laid out, in my previous Post.
    Please take a look at it, when/if you get a chance.

    I'm actually now thinking of just putting the Intel Optane SSD right at the bottom (grey) Slot #4 (the very last PCIe Slot).
    And putting the smaller/thinner Lynx card just right in between the GPUs at that black ICH Slot? Since there should theoretically be enough air reaching and circulating through out the whole Mobo & all if its PCIe Slots area, I think.

    Basically the opposite way to what you have suggested.

    So, what do you fellas think? @TwoEars @bengo :eek:

    PS: Primary reason for not sticking the Intel SSD into the ICH Chipset PCIe Slot is: cause it's simply ain't the Direct-to-CPU PCIe-Lane connection, and that Intel Optane SSD would be my Primary OS/Games/Storage one... just thinking of trying to squeeze out the maximum performance from my Operating System's SSD... putting it on the very last Grey PCIe (3.0) CPU-bound Slot, and all.
    ____________________

    Also, I will most likely, suck it up and just stick with the Build-in Air-Cooling for both of my GPUs, since, they are the Copper-Finned as well as, Pre-Binned & Pre-Tested to safely run right off the bat, with the 2025Mhz Overclock, as per the "Guarantee" on their primary selling point, hence why they cost so much more than the regular 1080ti/FTW3's...
    https://www.evga.com/products/product.aspx?pn=11G-P4-6798-KR
    https://www.evga.com/products/Specs/GPU.aspx?pn=618c3b68-6270-4406-81f7-00c58f1a3982
    ____________________

    It does, indeed, helps me out greatly!

    Since I guess, I just simply needed some encouragement along the way, as well, so thank you very much @TwoEars & @bengo for the ongoing advice & also for taking y'all time to help me out w/ finding the proper SLI Bridges, etc! :bow:
    ____________________

    I'm just not sure on the Fan Brackets over the PCIe GPU/Cards placements... not sure it will work w/ any of those "hard" HB SLI Bridges... or possibly I don't even need to worry about those Brackets you linked? Since I have 3x Fans at the Bottom and 2x Fans at the top of my Mobo's compartment, let alone 3x Fans in front and 1x Fan on the Back... for proper Positive Air-Pressure???
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018
  7. TwoEars

    TwoEars Friend

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    @A1Gear

    Sure that sounds good too. The optane drive is probably small enough that it won't be blocking much airflow from your bottom card and it should get some cooling from the gpu fan so that's good. Sometimes it's easier to setup an optane card like that when it's connected to the controller but you'll just have to try it and see how it goes. They can be a little tricky to get going as boot OS drives sometimes but I'm sure there's a guide somewhere you can follow. If you're lucky it will work without much trouble.

    Top choice of GPU brands by the way. EVGA has by far and away the best warranty, be sure to register them for the best warranty terms. About airflow... it certainly sounds like you have enough fans... but other than that really hard to comment on without seeing pictures etc. But trying to tuck away cables is a good idea, they block some air.

    Would love to see a pic or two of the rig later when it's all done, sounds like a monster. :)
     
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2018
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  8. bengo

    bengo Friend

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    Water cooling + first PC build + expensive parts, sounds like a recipe for disaster ...
    Also as @TwoEars wrote, with big fans you can get nearly the same performance at lower cost + much less risk.
     
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  9. lac29

    lac29 Acquaintance

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    Anyone here a member of https://smallformfactor.net/ ?

    I am probably building a S4M-C (might sell it and just get a Skyreach) and a Dan A4-SFX next year.
     
  10. Taverius

    Taverius Smells like sausages

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    Demcifilters are good stuff, and if you're using dust filters, positive airflow is a given - or else dust gets in from every crack in the case.

    I've used them happily in every case I've built for the least few years.

    Great at filtering, and the best filtration/airflow ratio of any I've used, but in an absolute sense they do eat quite a bit of airflow, so keep that in mind.
     
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  11. Jh4db536

    Jh4db536 Friend

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    The furnace / space heaters that I made for Black Friday. Monopoly money generators. I have solar and choose to make more than the .20 cents per kwh the utilities pay me. The goal is the break even on kwh generated vs consumed each month. Accomplished through scheduling off peak, auto sleep, wake up, adjusting to weather forecast, undervolting/limiting GPU tdp, idling individual GPU makes this possible.
    [​IMG]
    Top 1070ti (in progress..motherboard defective and only 4 cards working), middle is 1080ti, bottom is vega64.

    [​IMG]
    Old 2600k converted to ether Miner. 290x 280 hand me downs. Given the current prices of hardware and fake money, every available resources we could find were evaluated for profitability.

    [​IMG]
    for fun htpc, mobile desktop, use it for bluray encoding, all purpose use, work. Ryzen 7
     
    Last edited: Jan 13, 2018
  12. dark_energy

    dark_energy Friend

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    Updated my RAM and added another SSD.

    Processor: Intel 3570k 4.2GHz
    Motherboard: MSI Z77 G45
    Cooling: Alpenföhn CPU Cooler
    Memory: Corsair V. 1600mHz 8GB
    Video Card(s): ASUS R9 270 OC 1040/1450
    LCD/CRT Model: LG 32''
    Case: Bitfenix Shinobi
    Power Supply: Corsair TX 750 V2
    Crucial M4 128GB, WD Green 2TB
    Mouse: G502
    Keyboard: CM Quickfire Ultimate MX Brown
    Mousepad: SteelSeries 4HD


    Processor: Intel i5 3570k OC @4.2GHz
    Motherboard: MSI Z77 G45
    Cooling: Alpenföhn CPU Cooler, 2 Bitfenix case fans.
    Memory: Corsair V. 1600mHz DDR3 12GB
    Video Card(s): MSI GTX1060 6GT OC 6GB
    LCD/CRT Model: Dell Ultrasharp 24'' IPS 1920x1200
    Case: Bitfenix Shinobi
    Power Supply: Seasonic M12II-520
    Storage: Crucial M4 128GB SSD, WD Green 2TB, Kingston UV400 256GB SSD
    Mouse: G502
    Keyboard: CM Quickfire Ultimate MX Brown
    Mousepad: SteelSeries 4HD

    Latest titles (BF1 & FH3) are quite heavy on RAM, so 12GB setup makes more sense now.
     
    Last edited: Feb 19, 2018
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  13. SineDave

    SineDave Friend

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    @A1Gear I've been an overclocker for about 18 years, including watercooling. My only recommendation on your build, if you can change it is to avoid SLI, as it's awful. Many newer games don't support it properly, so you'd be better served by just buying a Titan V and a nice water block for it.

    Don't forget to assemble your entire cooling loop outside the case and run it for 24-48 hours to ensure there are no leaks before you put it next to all that expensive hardware.

    Finally, if you haven't purchased it yet, the PCI-E optane ssd is a real waste of money. I don't mean to offend, but in real-world usage, no M.2 SSD will be noticeably slower than the optane. It's even hard to find benchmarks where you can detect a noticeable difference that would be visible to a human.

    I wish you the best of luck using piping instead of flexi/bendable acrylic tubing, as that's really difficult to work with as a beginner.
     
  14. PacoTaco

    PacoTaco Friend

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    Here's my build:

    Cpu: i7 8700k @ 5.0Ghz - 1.28v
    Cooler: Noctua NH-D15S w/ Noctua Chromax fans and heatsink covers
    Motherboard: Asus ROG Maximus Hero X
    Ram: G.Skill Trident Z RGB 3200Mhz 16GB
    PSU: EVGA Supernova G3 750W
    Case: Fractal Meshify C
    Storage: Samsung EVO 1TB SSD
    GPU: MSI Gaming X Trio 1080ti
    Monitor: AOC AG271UG 4k GSYNC
     
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  15. Sqveak

    Sqveak Friend

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    BATTLESTATION (work & play)

    CPU: Ryzen 7 1700
    GPU: Radeon RX 480 (8GB)
    RAM: 16GB G.Skill Flare-X F4-3200C14D-16GFX
    SSD: 1TB Samsung 960 PRO
    PSU: SilverStone SX500-LG
    mobo: ASRock AB350 Gaming-ITX
    case: NCASE M1 (black)
    cooling: EK-FC RX-480 w/ backplate, EK-Supremacy MX AMD, EK CoolStream SE 240, EK-XTOP SPC-60 PWM, FrozenQ M1 NCase Reservoir, 2x Noctua NF-F12.


    NERDBOX (linux)

    APU: AMD A10 7800
    RAM: 8GB Crucial BALLISTIX Sport VLP (DDR3-1600)
    SSD: 128GB Samsung 850 PRO
    PSU: SilverStone Nightjar 520W Platinum Fanless
    mobo: ASRock FM2A88X-ITX+
    case: NCASE M1 (aluminium)
    cooling: NOFAN CR-80EH


    shared monitor: Dell U2417H
    backup monitor: Samsung SyncMaster PX2370

    The Dell has a stupid low input lag when used in its native resolution and a very nice factory colour calibration built in.
    Unfortunately the lag is higher in non native resolutions as noted here: http://www.tftcentral.co.uk/reviews/dell_u2417h.htm#lag
     
  16. barelyincollege

    barelyincollege Nice Pit Bull

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    CPU: i5-4690K
    GPU: Zotac GTX 970
    SSD: 256GB Samsung 850 EVO
    Case: White Corsair Air 240

    When I built this PC, I couldn't get the damn thing to boot, even though I did everything right. Over the next few weeks, I tried everything to fix it: breadboarded outside of the case, tested every component and different monitors at home, checked for case issues, replaced the power supply, motherboard and RAM, even had Intel issue a CPU exchange because I couldn't think of anything else to swap out. After I'd spent $700 swapping out different parts and a local repair shop couldn't figure out the problem, I forgot about it for a while to preserve my sanity.

    A few weeks later, I was watching a movie on my TV/monitor and got the usual popup about a software update. I don't know why, but I decided to check the changelog, which said something to the effect of: "...fixes HDMI handshake issues for PCs introduced by last update."

    The TV/monitors I have at home are the exact same model in different screen sizes. A few days before I built my PC, all three of them had received the same automatic software update that borked compatibility between my PC and the displays' HDMI inputs, and I didn't realize it because, well, when your computer doesn't work on three displays, of course the displays aren't the problem.

    Updated the software, hooked up the PC, turned it on...and was greeted by a perfectly fine computer that had been working the whole time. Thanks, Samsung.
     
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  17. g_mr_p

    g_mr_p Acquaintance

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    After roughly a decade of slumming it on various laptops, my desktop-less life is no more. Been chipping away at this passively-cooled "media PC" on and off as the parts arrive piecemeal. Won't put out crazy monster numbers, but runs as expected and is completely silent; heatsinks work pretty well.

    CPU : i7-8700k (delidded, repasted w/ TG Conductonaut, undervolt+OC)
    GPU : EVGA Geforce GTX 1060 (6GB, slight OC)
    RAM : Corsair Dominator Pt (2x 16GB)
    SSD : 2x M.2, 2x SATA (all Samsung, all 0.5TB)
    Mobo : ASUS Prime Z370-A
    Chassis : HDPLEX H5 v2 (+ CPU/GPU cooling hardware)
    PSU : custom 400W AC/DC adapter --> HDPLEX 400W DC-ATX converter
    PCIe x1 : Pink Faun I2S bridge (half-height)

    CPU heatsink/heatpipes, one of the M.2 SSDs, industrial power socket + connector (that doesn't melt under load... don't ask)
    [​IMG]
    Graphics card + heatsinks, Pink Faun card, one of the SATA SSDs, DC-ATX converter and disgusting nest of power wires
    [​IMG]
    Similar footprint to the Holo Spring underneath, slightly longer and taller
    [​IMG]
     
  18. LetMeBeFrank

    LetMeBeFrank Won't tell anyone my name is actually Francis

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    I'm really starting to consider a "silent" pc build, while I can't go fully silent as I like to have good airflow, I am planning to switch to a Fractal Design define r6 once the blackout version is available. I am also probably going to switch from my current h100i to a noctua air cooler. The h100i is easily the loudest part of my system right now, and it's running 2x noctua ippc fans.
     
  19. Ice-man

    Ice-man Friend

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    I used to build gaming pc's in mini fridge sized cases. I did this for many years. Dropping $500 on the latest graphics card was nothing in order to get 5-10 more fps. Now times have changed. I don't play pc games anymore. And I've built a near silent desktop pc that I've had for about three years now that is the size of a largish shoebox. I miss gaming sometimes but never enough to jump back into the pool.
     
    econaut and Thad E Ginathom like this.
  20. dark_energy

    dark_energy Friend

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    I just use SpeedFan to controll my fans, i have invested like 30€ on fans and my PC is dead silent most of the time, only makes some noise under heavy load/gaming.
     
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