The All Purpose Advice Thread

I would not recommend this, especially for point to point wiring. I haven't used Harbor Freight, but I did start with super cheap irons. They took forever to heat up and I had to hold the iron there for 30-40 seconds before anything melted. Velleman iron is as cheap I would go.

 

Specifically, a rosin core solder, and one that isn't too thick. I like Kester solder.

Also - if you don't have a multi-meter, you will need one. It is an absolute requirement for building a Crack.

If you want a good cheap iron, give this a shot. http://a.co/i0ce7qZ It's a lot more than $5, but it should last a long long time.

Oh yeah, while I'm spending your money, make sure you have one of these.

 

Ditto! I never liked my cheap ass RS Iron, no control over the heat, took forever to solder some speaker cables to connectors.

Much, much happier with variable heat Weller like this one:

link

 

I guess it depends what you're used to. I've built my Crack and assembled/disabled/reassembled mechanical keyboard kits with bargain bin 30W irons.

All of the above are sold choices if @lm4der doesn't mind spending more.

 

Different philosophies, that's all. I grew up being preached at that you never buy cheap tools. My grandfather was a mechanic.

There's nothing wrong with an inexpensive iron for a single project.

 

I don't think anyone has mentioned this yet, but I've found that a small chisel tip is much easier to use than the conical tips that come as standard on cheap irons. A tip only costs a small handful of dollars. Something shaped like this: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-T18D16P-Fx-888-Station-1-6mm/dp/B004OR9BV4

@maverickronin I am impressed you've done keyboards with a cheap iron, that would have driven me nuts (I borrowed a modest soldering station when I tried that).

 

Yeah, if you are able to go beyond the stock tip then definitely go with something bigger. Retains more heat.

 

Exactly. I always buy the highest quality tools I can afford.

Spoiler: Rant About Tools

My grandfather was an engineer and my father was a tool-maker, both for Chrysler, and both were mechanics before that. I have tools twice my age that I've inherited from my father and his father before him. All of my oldest tools were very expensive but they all still work perfectly, despite being well-used, because they were high quality when purchased. Another thing I was always taught is that tools go back where they belong before you leave the garage for the night, otherwise forget any sense of order. Some of my friends have garages and toolboxes that look like a tornado came through, its pure chaos and gives me a headache just looking at it.

 

I'm sorry for bringing this up if it has been answered later in this thread, and for not introducing myself. People are arguing over Audio Science Review and their measurements of Modi 2 Uber vs D30, where people claim that you take measurements with a Wyrd based on the quote above. I wonder if you could state whether you do this or not to settle this.

Posts: https://www.reddit.com/r/headphones...rement_and_comparison_of_schiit_modi/dyyv5oa/

 

Could you please explicitly state if you took measurements of Modi 2 Uber and D30 with a Wyrd or not.

 

These are some of the measurements you refer to?:

http://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?threads/topping-d30-dac-measurements.6270/

 

I didn't ask for myself. You're quite oblivious if you think people with a bias against Schiit or SBAF, or anything in general, really, will connect the dots by themselves. People love to take any opportunity to speculate, jump to their own conclusions, or play dense. Often a combo of everything.

 

I have not owned the P1s, but it is my understanding from others here that it is a bit more difficult to drive than a typical balanced armature like the Noble X for example. The N3 has quite a bit more power on tap to drive headphones. I owned one with a Noble X and MD Plus and thought the sound was pretty good for the low cost. A tad to the warmish side, no treble fuckery.

The Sony has much better battery life though.

 

I remember seeing a fix for this problem already, but can't seem to find it. My account won't stay logged in and I have to re-log in each time. There was somethings about clearing web browser cache or something. Browser is chrome w/ no extensions.