The All Purpose Advice Thread

Thank you kindly. I appreciate the resovoir of knowledge sbaf represents, due in no small part to the contributions of posters like yourself. Guess all i can do is give it a whirl, sux that I probably wont like it though.

I try to avoid the journey of finding that "right thing" that just synergistically makes sense, id rather just let others work out the consensus and harvest the fruit that comes out on the other end. Soemtimes though I wonder if ive robbed myself of the payoff that comes with getting it wrong, getting it wrong--and than getting it right, finding out on your own you know?

Anyways, while I "have you on the line" , would u have any recommendation for a tube that's like the 6922EH but more in bass slam without breaking the bank?

 

Unfortunately, I'm not a bass head and the HD650 that I listen with are not noted for tight bass. I'm sorry I can't be of more help in your bass slam search. I also just sold my Vali 2 and many of my tubes last week.

It may be worth picking up an adapter and trying some 5670 tubes. I seem to recall some of them having more bass. Maybe try the General Electric (green text?) which is inexpensive. I used to own the slightly more expensive 5* triple mica version which was a fun listen. The Western Electric 396A is a popular tube, but that is very expensive. These 5670 tubes have a different presentation to the 6922EH (less sparkle, more bass - but loose, wider soundstage) they make an interesting alternative when you feel like something different.

 

Would you guys choose a MD THX AAA or a Jot? I have the MCTH but I'm looking for something solid state only. Or would this be a futile sidegrade?

 

I am looking for power consumption figures for the EC ZDS and BW1. Can someone help?
Thanks

 

I am having problems with Bryston BHA-1 volume control and sensitive headphones, even on low gain. I cannot run Beyerdynamic T5p.2 at all, I have to set the volume so low that it does not go even beyond the point of channel imbalance and it is loud. T5p.2 are crazy sensitive but what about HD800S - cannot move the knob beyond 9:30, even with HEKv2 and some classical tracks, 11 is too loud.
iEMatch should be a good option for T5p.2 and IEMs but I am also thinking about using in line attenuators between Bryston BDA-2 and BHA-1. 10dB balanced attenuators should do it, I think. I have Shure XLR switched attenuators, tried -15dB but I am not sure how they affect the SQ.
Can anyone help please?

 

@wormcycle
Is trying some digital attenuation not an option?
Switching to rca instead of xlr will also drop the level.
Otherwise, those inline attenuators will do the trick. They are simply resistor dividers, so shouldn't have any meaningful effect on sound.

 

BW1 17.8W.

 

Thanks @Armaegis, I will get -10dB attenuators, -15dB on Shure takes it a bit too far.

 

If you look in the Jot thread, Marv stated some differences between his time with a pending Massdrop THX and the Jot. I went with the more smooth treble and slight warm current run of the Jot. The THX is on the netural side. However, anything can change with the THX once they start shipping them out next year.

 

SPDIF splitter question? I have a Modi Multibit fed with USB input from Chromebook and SPDIF input from my CDP ( 2007 Onix CD3). Thinking of getting the Eitr but the CDP only has SPDIF digital output so Modi Multibit will need 2 coaxial inputs. Can I use an A/B switch or even an RCA splitter without mucking up the digital signal? Any advice or experiences welcomed.

 

Definitely not the splitter. A switch is the best bet. Technically it does mess up the digital signal somewhat, but for practical purposes at this level of the game it won't really matter.

 

I agree, keep away from SPDIF splitters!

 

What can use to glue two layers of HD6xx front foam together without affecting the sound passing through? Crazy glue around the edges?

This is for a mod.

 

What do you use to get digital input into a DEQ2496? My options are basically toslink or AES, but I can't figure out a reasonable route from a PC.

It looks like a usb-> toslink convertor (are there good/reputable ones?) or a raspberry pi aes hat (502 DAC) are my most cost-efficient choices? There's also the Gustard U12, an XMOS->AES converter, which looks promising and specced similarly to the Singxer I've seen folks use but at half the cost. I think I'd prefer a one-box solution vs. daisy chaining convertors to transformers, so it's looking attractive.

Am I missing a simpler solution? Thanks!

 

What type of PC do you have? If self built, what motherboard is it? If pre-built, what model? And if laptop, what model?

 

3M makes glue in a spray can, that coats whatever surface very lightly .that would probably be fine .

 

@supertransformingdhruv
I have a DCX2496 and I've fed it with a coax output and a simple converter cable. Yeah technically that doesn't match the impedances correctly, but Behringer ain't exactly the pinnacle of quality that we're shooting for to begin with. I'd grab something like a Schiit Eitr and a cheap converter cable and call it a day.

Disclaimer: I have not tested that configuration myself; so a one box solution may be preferable

 

I was planning on hooking up to a Lenovo W510 over usb, unless a raspberry pi ends up working out better.

@Armaegis
Thanks, wasn't sure if that would work or not. There are quite a few people online who go on about signal reflections from the impedance mismatch and guides on where to solder a resistor on the xlr end, which I definitely want to avoid.

Thanks all!

 

Getting worried about reflections is a wild goose chase when the bigger concern is the different voltage levels and technically different coding/carrier. Slapping in a resistor does jack all for the characteristic impedance.

 

Hey guys, I was originally planning to try out my friend's Aeon Flow C on my Bryston BHA-1 amp.

I am aware of this sentence in the amp's manual: Also, though we recommend that the load impedance be greater than 32 Ohms it can be a low as 16 Ohms. I assume I can take that as "never go below 16 ohm".

The Aeon Flow C is 15 ohms, what would be the consequence if I connect the Aeon Flow C, or any extremely low impedance load, to the amp?