The Two Channel Advice Thread

I read it, one guy at Gearslutz. At this price level it may be difference between units. Coloring the sound: maybe but that's why it depends on monitors.
Stereo image is mostly affected by channel imbalance. I have Big Knob and Monicon, listened to both and measured with sound meter. The balance, and stereo image is not affected.

 

Sorry if this is too general of a question, but something that popped up when I was watching a guide on purchasing DACs on YouTube. How do you know you have speakers resolving enough for higher-end/higher-priced DACs or amplifiers? How do you not fall into the trap of spending $3k on a DAC when you don't have the downstream gear to take full advantage of it?

I know DACs matter so little, or at least that's the impression I get, in a system configuration and the bulk of one's budget should be spent on speakers themselves. I'm just curious how you know as a consumer that the speakers you have don't warrant a Gungnir Mulitbit (or something above) or an expensive amplifier.

Like if I was to get two Vidars, that's already more than the cost of my floorstanding speakers. Unless there are significant gains to be had bi-amping or monoblocking.

If all I have is a Modi Multibit and one Vidar, would I hear a notable increase with a higher-end DAC or double amp? Or is the gains like 5-10% because I'm limited by the speakers I have?

I'm just curious what one looks for after they have their speakers and not burn money needlessly. How does system synergy fit into this?

 

I am running a Parasound HCA2200 that I bought about 2 years ago used for about $400.
I am pretty happy with it running with Tube preamp
I am thinking of having the John Curl recommended modifications (see below) and a recap.
Recently I have seen a recapped HCA2200 for $575.

Note John Curl (designer of the HCA2200) recommended modifications. (Got this from a from a John Curl post on Audiogon)

First locate any bypass caps that seem 'tacked on' or paralleled with other similar caps. Just remove them, except for one 0.1 uf or so cap in each board location. Any bypasses across power electrolytics should be removed.
Second, make sure that your feedback resistors (47K) are 1/2W Resista or Holco (old), nothing else will do.

 

My main system is currently running a pair of Dynaudio DM2/6 bookshelves from a Topping TP60 (80W class D) alongside a pair of Dayton 10" subs. It's pretty decent but I also know what I'm missing since my headphone rig is so damn fine.

Once I get my modded Hafler DH500 (230W class A/B) back in working order, I'm going to be considering a pair of tower speakers in the $800 range. This will be for a wide range of music including metal, country, hip-hop, rock, folk, world, etc. My highest priorities are coherence, e.g. maintaining separation at volume during busy passages, and having a good soundstage with decent off-axis response (e.g. not Maggies). My preferred sound is warm and full with good air/treble extension. And yes, I realize that at my budget level I might not get everything I want.

So, I have been eyeing the Emotiva Airmotiv T2 or the Chane A5.4. These seem very highly regarded for the price. I'd also be interested in any good active options in that price range or a little higher (since I could sell the Hafler to recover part of the cost), or any DIY options that might come in flat packs (I don't have access to woodworking tools).

 

EDIT: I Just realized this is probably the wrong thread. "General Speaker Advice and Recommendations" fits better I suppose?

Concerning nearfields I have found that I like the Genelec house sound the most (vs. Neumann, Adam, Focal, Dynaudio). With headphones it's HD650.

Any tips what brands in the hifi world I should look into for the living room? Assuming, that there might be a company with a similar house sound like Genelec.

 

@econaut
If you can live with the looks why not go with Genelec 8260?

 

Actually I quite like the looks, but I could not live with the DSP... I guess.

I can't remember having read a convincing report on multibit qualities being retained after DSP / another D/A coversion. But maybe I am not up to date.

I have Yggdrasil A2 and use Dirac/Sonarworks room correction software before the DAC, so no need for room correction in the speakers and fear of wasting the Yggdrasil.

 

I understand that personally I would build my chain starting with the speakers but each to their own, besides the fact that you probably also need a DAC for your headphones. But why not try the Gennies with digital input all you need is a source with digital AES/EBU out. The Gennis should be available throughout the EU via Thomann for a 30 day trial.

 

@econaut
Why not just go for one of the older Genelec models without DSP then?

 

FWIW the consumer G One through Five are analog.

 

Wasting the yggdrasil lol. If you like Genelecs, just buy the best Genelecs, and modern Genelecs are all class d. The better three way ones suitable for filling a room have digital inputs which make the Yggdrasil is the useless product for you. You could just plug your interface card straight into the DSP Genelecs. If you don't have one, sell the Yggdrasil and buy one. Better speakers and better crossovers mean way more than an extra step of DSP conversion anyway that you do not even have to go through and shouldn't even be worrying about given how many loopback passes it takes for good pro interfaces to truly become egregious. If you get DSP Genelecs, you have no need for Schiit products.

 

Well, that's what I am saying. No DSP active speakers, because I already have the Yggdrasil.

I switched from headphones to active monitors at my desk (Genelec 8050, Class AB, no DSP) and the Yggdrasil is being used for that primarily. But it also feeds a a second room, my living room, where there's a Freya S and an Aegir.

I didn't plan to sell my speakers there (Klipsch RF82 MKII) when I got the Freya S and Aegir just recently, but a friend of mine wants them and I am happy to give them to him along with my old XTZ amp (good synergy).

Since I am quite pleased with the Klipsch I might just go for the RF7 MKIII (but have to demo them first). But then I got the flash of insight to ask here if there were any hifi / passive speakers that sounded like Genelec, because eventually I prefer the sound of the Genelecs at my desk to the Klipsch in the living room.

It would be easier if I could describe why, but unfortunately I can't. I have learned a little since I joined this forum and while demoing cans and active speakers, but I never made it to train my ears and learn the technical terms to keep up with the level here.

The reviews and recommendations here have always served me well and since many people here know Genelecs, I'd be happy to get tips which hifi brands might be interesting for me or maybe help me with a description what the Genelec house sound sounds like. I have read that they are a tad dark, but at the same time I missed a certain brilliance / shine in the highs when demoing other active monitors and found that in the Genelecs.

 

Greetings all. I'd be grateful for some amplifier advice...

I'm currently running a c. 20-yr-old Rotel RA-971 Mk II integrated (conservatively rated 60 wpc into 8 ohms) into Dynaudio Audience 52SE speakers (small 2-way 6.5" + 1"-soft-dome, rear-ported, 86 dB/W/m, 4 ohm stand-mounts). Sources are Modi Multibit with updated firmware and Rega Planar 3 + Denon DL-110 cart + Hagerman Bugle 2 preamp.

The amp seems to drive the speakers sufficiently well and I'm happy with the overall sound signature - but remote control would be handy, the volume pot has lately been a bit scratchy, and although not having tried others I've had the feeling for a while that the amp the weakest link in my chain.

In the next couple of months I'm going to be moving into a smaller space - 14'6" by 12' room in which the speakers will be c. 7' apart and listened to from 6-8' away, vs current dimensions of 16', 15', 9' & 12' respectively. Along with the new digs, I'm thinking it might be time for a new amp.

Requirements:

• Budget: under $US1000, ideally under $CAD1000. No objection to buying used.
• No philosophical objection to a two-box setup, but space and WAF considerations make an integrated preferable.
  
• Inputs/outputs: balanced-in is not necessary, but I need at least 3 SE (phono-pre, DAC, tuner), and a pre-out and/or 'tape-out'; the MCTH headphone amp will be fed from the pre or tape, and I might be open to considering a sub in the future (although it's an apartment building, there'll be nobody directly beneath us).
• Remote control
• Sufficient power to drive the Dynaudios to interesting levels for not only directly-in-front listening, but also to be loud enough in the adjoining room (no wall). The Rotel does fine for this.

From the little I've researched so far, an emerging contender is the current gen. Rega Brio. I like the smooth treble of the Dynaudio soft-dome tweeter and don't mind that the bass doesn't go massively deep, but I'm worried about introducing too much darkness into things and wonder from what I've read if the Brio in combination with Modi Multibit might do that. In its favour: if the MM input is as good as the internet would have me believe, I might be able to sell the Hagerman.

I see in the Aegir thread that Classe amps seem to be viewed as a good match for Dynaudios. Classe would work for me, as used CAP-80s & CAP-100s on this side of the border go for well within my budget. Budget probably rules out a used Bryston B-60. In a two-box setup, a new Saga (OG or current?) & Vidar would with freight and taxes be more than I want to spend - unless you guys are really persuasive

Any other suggestions welcome. Thanks in advance.

 

Good bang for buck integrated Vincent springs into (my) mind. Unfortunately it seems the more affordable ones (SV 400) aren’t sold in Canada. Price for the SV 500 hybrid is 1400 $:

https://www.mokandmartensen.com/mobile/Category.aspx?id=53

There is a used one up on eBay US for 649 Yankee $ (found on hifishark)

No phono pre
similar wattage rating like the Brio
nearly double the weight of the brio which hints at a beefier PS

 

I am looking to upgrade my speaker wire. Currently I'm using Bluejeans twelve white, but I'm also using a pair of Dayton subs with those stupid little clips in the back and the twelve gauge is just too big for them. Bananas don't fit. I tried using pins but it just ends up f'ing the clips up and the springs end up coming out and if you look at them wrong they'll come loose. I think my best bet is just to use raw wire. The speakers are fairly sensitive (98dB, soon to be driven by a 10WPC amp), so I'm thinking I can get away with 16-14awg. I need about 30-40 ft of length (x2 for +/-).

I am looking at few budget options like Neotech UP-OCC or Cardas copper, and I'm not expecting anything earth shattering, but I am curious if there's anything that y'all would recommend that would be a step above the rest?

 

I personally enjoy the Duelund 16 gauge cotton hookup wire, a lot. I've toyed with the idea of going for 12 gauge but it's a big cost increase.

Put Oyaide on your radar as well

 

PSSST, I went from one end of the spectrum to another. 40 years of audiofool wire of a dozen audiophile companies up to $2500 for 10 foot pair. Now I use this in short under 10 foot lengths. Canare 4S8 Star Quad Speaker Cable (4 x 16-Gauge). And no 12 gauge does not sound better, at least not to me. Spend the savings on stuff that matter even more than wire.

EDIT: Just saw that you plan on 30 to 40 foot run, not sure if you would lose freq response with it according to charts I have seen, but there is always the Canare 4S11 Star Quad Speaker Cable (4 x 14-Gauge). If you are paranoid.

 

I have my options slimmed down to the following:

* Kimber Kable 4PR 14awg $125
* Furutech FS-303 16awg $85
* DH Labs Odyssey 14awg $140

Everything else was a bit too pricey. I am currently leaning towards the Kimber. Just want to make sure I'm not making a huge mistake or something.

 

Tell me you’re not planning to buy new cables are you? You can get cables at like 50-70% of new retail price if you just look around on the used market. I got Audioquest Rocket 44 for like 35% of the new retail price about a year ago becuase some guy bought out all the stock from a store that was going out of business. You just have to dig around online and/or be patient for the good stuff to show up cheap and then grab it. For the price of the 4PR you could probably get the 4TC used...or something else. Plus then, if you don’t think it did what you wanted, flip for little/no loss.