Watch Thread

Discussion in 'Geek Cave: Computers, Tablets, HT, Phones, Games' started by Shem, Sep 28, 2015.

  1. Taverius

    Taverius Smells like sausages

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    [​IMG]

    So far I've managed to put it off by telling myself how heavy a bronze case is, but I'm not sure how long I can persevere for :confused:
     
  2. Cryptowolf

    Cryptowolf Repping Chi Town - Friend

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  3. Cryptowolf

    Cryptowolf Repping Chi Town - Friend

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    That's a really coherent design. I'm tough on tool watches and have dented my one bronze case pretty badly, but I can certainly see the appeal. I look forward to seeing this piece on your wrist. ;)
     
  4. Kunlun

    Kunlun cat-alyzes cat-aclysmic cat-erwauling - Friend

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    This is a good question, and there are a few factors.

    The short answer: For watches under $2,000, ETA (or a sellita clone) is great and preferable by far to miyota or other garbage. Be careful with overpriced watches with a ETA/sellita (IWC, looking at you), but if you love something, then go for it, but buy smart.

    Also, Nomos is a relatively lower end ($2,500-$4,000ish) brand with in-house movements

    The issue with in-house movements is mostly for higher end watches. In the past, vintage era watches, even very high-end ones, would use a base movement called an ebauche from another company. How each company finished (polishing and decorating and adjusting and taking the darn thing apart and remaking parts of it, or adding complications like a chronograph module, etc.) the ebauche determined just how "high-end" it was. Super high end and middle end watches could all have the same base movement.

    Now, those ebauche manufacturers, ETA among them, have mostly been bought up by conglomerates and this has forced the rise of in-house movements. Overall, this is good as you see a lot of innovation.

    However, keep in mind that there are levels of ebauche that ETA sells. The ETA in a cheap watch is not the ETA in a more expensive watch. Tudor, for example, is moving to in-house movements, but the ETA they use is highest grade and then they go Rolex on its ass, rebuilding it in ways a Raymond Weil only dreams of.

    ETA will cease selling ebauche completely soon (outside of SwatchGroup), with sellita and a few others taking up the slack.

    In-house is generally better, but in reality, it's a little muddled. Omega, Longines and other Swatchgroup in-house movements are often still based on ETA. Breguet, which I love, uses updated, modern versions of classic Lemania and F.Piguet movements which you'd find in their basic form in high-end watches of 60 years ago. So, in-house, but with a lineage going back.

    Super high-end Laurent Ferrier just got caught using high-end ebauches and calling them "in-house", but to be fair, these are likely a bit proprietary, made slightly to spec for LF. Rich Douche brand Richard Mille uses movements made for it and charges 6 figures to 7 figures.

    So, it's complex, but you want to understand where they are sourcing the movement and how they are finishing it for a higher end watch.
     
  5. Stapsy

    Stapsy Friend

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    I really loved the IWC mark xviii tribute to mark xvi when I saw it in the IWC boutique, but the ETA/sellita movement is a bit of a stretch at that price point. The finishing and history of those watches is probably their big selling point. Most of their in house stuff is a significant jump up in price and size.

    Funny enough, I heard that the older ETA Black Bays are demanding a premium now versus the newer in house stuff. I guess people are seeing some value in the smaller and well proven movements after the buzz created by “in-house”. Even under $5k I am finding in-house is the exception and not the rule for most of the swiss brands.
     
  6. Deep Funk

    Deep Funk Deep thoughts - Friend

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    I have three watches which will address your question.

    Seiko 5, (the field watch model) it has the in-house Seiko 7s26 movement and is only accurate when you wear it every other day. Very affordable, original lineage and so affordable for an automatic watch with in-house movement that you cannot believe the prices for some fashion quartz watches. In short a beater watch with in-house movement.

    Vostok Amphibia(n), the Russian military dive watch from the 1940-ties with a unique movement that is super reliable. It allows for hacking and hand-winding and can be bought for 60 Dollars on Ebay. This is again a proper in-house movement and has its quirks like the dangling crown to minimise friction in the movement when hand-winding. In short a beater watch with in-house movement.

    Then there is my Steinhart 42mm hommage watch, no date function. This exact model.

    [​IMG]

    It has an ETA-movement and clearly draws its inspiration from the old 1960-ties Submariners. For Steinhart the ETA-movements are standard, sometimes adapted but that is it. This watch for the right price is a steal. I do not care that the movement is standard issue. It is easy and affordable to service, may not be unique but it sweeps away the seconds. In short a beater watch with standard movement.

    P.S. If I had 20K on my bank account I would buy the new Longines Legend Diver with ETA-movement. Function, design and execution are beyond cool for me. The ETA-movement, nice touch that keeps servicing affordable.

    [​IMG]
     
  7. Taverius

    Taverius Smells like sausages

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    It shipped today :oops:

    Poor impulse control, that's me.

    Le immediate edit: @Deep Funk wow that Longines is gorgeous!
     
  8. Melvillian

    Melvillian Friend

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    ^^That Longines diver is beautiful.

    I’m having trouble deciding between the Sinn 104 white dial or black dial. I’m a sucker for white dials, but not sure about this one.
     
  9. Melvillian

    Melvillian Friend

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  10. haywood

    haywood Friend

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    I don’t love the black bezel around the white face, but it would certainly be distinctive. On the other hand if you generally prefer white the classic black dial would give you a nice watch to switch it up with.
     
  11. Taverius

    Taverius Smells like sausages

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    For what it matters I'm for the white.
     
  12. Melvillian

    Melvillian Friend

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    @Taverius I like the white as well, but I do get what @haywood means with the black bezel around the white dial. I also think the white dial is less legible than the black dial. The hands are supposed to be black, but because of the lume, they are basically white with the black outline, which makes the watch less legible.

    Will take more time to decide. Would really help to see both in person...


    Or maybe I'll save up a bit and get that beautiful Longines Legend Diver instead :)
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2018
  13. Taverius

    Taverius Smells like sausages

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    "A bit" :drunk:
     
  14. GoodEnoughGear

    GoodEnoughGear Evil Dr. Shultz‎

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    The first release of this watch was a no-date version which is stunning:
    [​IMG]
     
  15. Deep Funk

    Deep Funk Deep thoughts - Friend

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    I know. This and the Rolex Submariner are my favourite watch designs. Form followed function and something elegant emerged. Watches are small but engineering and design find their visual peak in this niche market.
     
  16. Stapsy

    Stapsy Friend

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    The sub is a beautiful watch. Only when seeing it in person did I truly appreciate it. The one thing I dislike about subs is the design has become so iconic that everyone knows what it is and what it costs. I am not sure that I could wear a watch that stands out in that way. Probably says more about me than the watch.
     
  17. rott

    rott Secretly hates other millenials - Friend

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    I also lust after the Sub (no-date specifically), but the thing that bothers me about the current one, apart from price, is that it tapers down in width too much from the lugs to the bracelet. Seems disproportionate compared to older versions and its sibling Sea Dweller (I would love the older 16600 42mm).
     
  18. rott

    rott Secretly hates other millenials - Friend

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    Correction, the 40mm 116600 Sea-Dweller. I could deal with the non-bubble date window.

    Can't keep all the models straight - it's the 16600 40mm Sea-Dweller that to my eyes has the perfect proportions. Just missing the cerachrome bezel introduced on the 116600.
     
    Last edited: May 10, 2018
  19. Deep Funk

    Deep Funk Deep thoughts - Friend

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    My best friend has the steel Sea Dweller, no cyclops. It is awesome. It is the more bad-ass version of the Submariner and the proportions are about perfect. Not too big, not too small and discrete yet present. It is a strange combination of just the right qualities that makes that watch one of the best expensive beater watches.

    He also has an affordable beater watch. Steinhart hit a home-run with this one.

    [​IMG]

    For about 400 Dollars/Euros you get one of the best homage watches ever made. He loves his 39mm. I have too many beater watches right now. If it was not for that, this would be on my short-list...
     
  20. Stapsy

    Stapsy Friend

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    I am not a fan of homage watches (or homage anything for that matter). I think it is important to support original design and not reward companies who try to profit off others. There are plenty of other dive watches in all price categories that are inspired by the submariner designs without being a blatant copy. YMMMV/IMO and all that, but I would prefer something like this instead.

    [​IMG]
     

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