Resources For DIYers

@fraggler made a comment awhile back that I wanted to continue here about tool steel oils

https://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?members/fraggler.273/#profile-post-34805

I have a woodshop that I’m stocking up and learning a bit about tools I need and maintenance. I bought a Facom precision engineering square for reference and accuracy and I’ve seen them as a standard part of wood and machine shops. But besides knowing about the precision, I did not know about the material properties and I just assumed it was stainless steel. After a few weeks though I am seeing some slight rust and learning that these made with tool steel. I’ve just been using them with my barehands and putting it to the side.

So would anyone know what is the typical procedure for using an engineering square? What kind of oils and accessories I would need for maintenance for this as well as similar tools? What do I do for the slight rust that’s already on there?

 

Partly answering my own question, here’s some info I got from some family who knows more about this than me

for protectants camellia/tea seed oil is used traditionally. For newer solvents there’s crc 3-36 which is similar to WD-40 but better. Some woodworking mag did a comparison with a bunch of solvents and crc 3-36 came out on top.

For the rust try to wipe off as much as possible before going abrasive with scotch bright pads

 

I have been using knife maintenance stuff on my tools recently, figuring if it was good for high end carbon steels (and Japanese swords), it would work for tools. I use camellia oil (https://www.amazon.com/KUROBARA-Tsubaki-Japanese-Maintenance-Camellia/dp/B00TCZEV36/?th=1) like you mentioned for cleaning and protection, and for older stuff that had begun to rust, I used some rust erasers (https://www.amazon.com/Rust-Eraser-Sabitoru-Medium-2-piece/dp/B00FS0BFJC/).

I also read somewhere on the interwebs about using Penetrol as a sealant and used it on the handles of some of my carbon steel leather tools. It seems to have held up well enough, but is kind of a pain to apply since it is pretty runny and takes forever to dry. https://www.amazon.com/Artecho-Pouring-Effects-Premium-Acrylic/dp/B00QUCPVZG/

 

Scotch-Brite pads come in various grades, from maybe 1000 grit down to around 60, and the coarse ones can definitely scratch or scuff steel. So be careful if you're cleaning a shiny surface.

To remove surface rust from chrome-plated or polished steel, I wet the surface and lightly rub it with 0000 steel wool. Works great and doesn't scratch.

 

It takes forever because it's linseed oil (mixed with an alkyd resin). It's not terrible for metal -- collectors use it on vintage tools as a sort of clear coat to help prevent rust -- but for wooden handles I'd just use pure tung oil.

What Penetrol is REALLY good for is restoring fiberglass. Makes chalky old Eames chairs look better than brand-new.