HifiMan HE1000 V1.5 MODs

Discussion in 'Modifications and Tweaks' started by Maxx134, Aug 25, 2016.

?

How you categorize your HEK soundstage?

  1. Ethereal

    6 vote(s)
    42.9%
  2. Soft

    3 vote(s)
    21.4%
  3. Ambiguous

    4 vote(s)
    28.6%
  4. Sweet

    3 vote(s)
    21.4%
  5. Razor sharp pinpoint accuracy!

    2 vote(s)
    14.3%
  6. None of above

    1 vote(s)
    7.1%
Multiple votes are allowed.
  1. Maxx134

    Maxx134 Friend

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    HifiMan HE1000 V1.5 MODs
    [​IMG]



    INTRODUCTION/PREFACE:


    Today we look at why the HEX came out with a version 2;
    What can we lean from this;

    And how to boost original "Version 1" beyond "Version 2" in exploiting the reasons why it has an ethereal ambiguous presentation, and how it can be adjusted.
    That's why the title is named 2.5 mods..
    It should be noted that the following are all my own personal observations and trials.
    So just in case there is controversy, I am not sating everything I say is fact..
    ;)
    Ok here we go...

    My take , personally is that HEK V1 presentation was definitely intentional...
    In making a TOTL headphone, every minute area would have been designed and covered.
    So it was designed this way.
    Just like the HD800 was designed to have its own soundstage and presentation.
    So today we will look to improve the HEK to have a more accurate presentation...
    What!? Did he just say better the HEK? Blasphemy!
    How?
    , (you ask).

    First we must admit there is room for improvement in all headphones, no matter the price, and none are perfect.
    That's why we have now a "Version 2"...

    As example, notice how the HD800 uses a medium between the driver and the earpad, (basket) to propagate it's soundfied...
    So too, the HEK has an area between the driver and the earpad which does a similar fashion.
    There is a "channel" all around the perimeter of the cup!
    From eyeball observation(I'm lazy to measure), it looks to be a gap of about 6mm tall and maybe 10mm deep.
    The sound travels out to this area, bouncing all around & along the dry wood inner casing, which then also contributes to the sound with its own soft wood resonance,
    and then reflects and bounce back into the driver/pad center area...
    How nice!..(NOT!)
    :p

    Ok so today we will address this issue, to the alleviate the negative aspects this has caused.
    It is at this point that I will give acknowledgement to Currawong for his initial attempt at attacking this problem, with his initial cloth "Tape mod"... Using a cloth tape to try regain some focus...
    Unfortunately, it is dangerous and only addresses one plastic surface, not the whole area in question.

    So my conclusion was that these approaches are not optimal..
    Neither tape, or damping material, or mods are what is actually needed in the HEK...

    Instead, what is needed is a type of "acoustic coupler" from the driver to the pad, which will bypass the surrounding perimeter area of empty space and reflection...
    In my opinion, this is EXACTLY the focus area that the new HEK V2 addresses, with the elimination of this area ("space").

    So as a result, we can have a MOD solution which give these benefits:
    1-acoustically couple driver to pad.
    2-eliminate reflections with more direct sound wave.
    3-improve treble response and linearity.
    4-improve detailing, breath and nuance not easily noticed before.
    5-improve bass impact.
    6-improve overall solidity of image.
    7-Lastly, to integrate similar benefits of the V2, but go further..
    We will now have the ability to slightly adjust tonality to YOUR own ear preference(!!!)
    The V2 will not have this ability.
    This is the reason why I am not posting the mod yet over at the big Head commercial site.
    Because I appreciate HifiMan and do not want to side track their V2 hype train, which has not even left the station,
    compared to the huge push of the Focal and Ether hype trains which are past full speed and preparing to derail.!

    Furthermwore, V2 can never sound like a V1, should you want to keep your original V1 sound.
    Some would want to keep the V1 sound option,
    as it is very complimentary to owning forward/harsh/aggressive solid state gear..

    Ok so now we will move onto the actual mods...
    Ok so all this sounds great, but what signature does this mod "sound" like?
    Although this mod has option to keep the sound signature the same, yet with a more neutral and detailed mids,
    The full mod (dealing with the rear/ grill side)
    Involves adding a more presence , so the final result was to achieve the level of tonality and solidity similar to what I have in the Code-x.

    If you do not know, I always use actual headphones and their positive traits as a reference and comparison.
    I do this because it is not easy to get positive results with measurements alone, as the bottom line is your ears...
    So I picked what is a general consensus as top headphones,
    For a frame of reference to set the goals to.

    To achieve these positive traits mentioned,
    I needed to add a touch more presence,
    which I was able to do at a trade off of the smooth ambiguous boundaries of the soundstage.
    The surreal extreme edges of the soundstage was "brought in" a bit, and into focus to add realism & presence to the soundstage..
    In other words, to use an analogy:
    Where the soundstage disappeared into obscurity into the horizon, now you can "see" the end of it.
    To me, a good analogy of listening is a form of "seeing"..
    This optional part of adjusting the grill side, is what changes the HEK into a slightly different animal, from dreamy to more real.
    Into a grand soundstaging Code-X .
    Everything is there and nothing is missing, with more "body" present.
    Details that where always there suddenly take on focus, realism & delicacy in imaging.

    Ok, so..
    Enough impression babble, and onto the mod..
    As noted before, it will be separated into TWO parts.
    The most interesting aspect is that the first part is actually the most important non-invasive, simple mod ever(!) for the HEK,
    and alone may "be enough" for many users..
    Uploading images to server..
    Stay tuned for next post instructions and photos...
    :)
     
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2017
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  2. Maxx134

    Maxx134 Friend

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    **Reserved for instructions part 1 of 2, pics to follow**


    INSTRUCTIONS 1 of 2 !:
    First off:
    Get familiar with your HEK.
    Grab the pads, squeeze them slightly in middle, for the inner tabs to lessen their grip to pull off...
    Now this time to look carefully inside...

    Take note that the WHOLE width and length of this AREA, IS THE DRIVER!. !!..!!..
    It is actually one HUGE INVISIBLE diaphragm/membrane that goes ALL WAY to the top and bottom edges,
    not just the middle area...
    DO NOT TOUCH!!!
    YOU WILL LEAVE PERMANENT STRETCH MARK ON MEMBRANE GUARANTEED!!!
    You WILL be tempted to touch it, as it will show what looks like oil stains.
    Bottom line is, DON'T TOUCH!!

    Ok,
    Now that I have sufficiently scared you, we will move onto the super easy part..
    :)

    The installation of the "acoustic coupler"..!!

    ****

    Follow these FOUR steps:
    1- BUY THESE PADS!
    *pic*
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]
    *Pic*

    [​IMG]
    2- CAREFULLY cut open these pads!
    *Pic*
    [​IMG]
    Notice how It has the PERFECT FIT, SHAPE, and outer diameter we need to sit perfectly in this area..
    A real great benefit for us!
    3- TRIM inner diameter, and height, for a DROP IN acoustic coupler!
    *Pic*
    [​IMG]
    DONE!!
    Well, not exactly.
    You need more info... Step 4:

    4- Details on what to cut and why:
    Before laying out the details, realize this...
    Once it's done, you are set free..(!)
    Free from the dangers of modding(!).

    NONE of the pasting & gluing of tiny strips of materials, and dangerous sticky tape or even damping materials that can damage your driver forever if falls in from vibration, or touched...!
    Not to mention removal of such materials would be a nightmare to return to stock and run the risks again of touching/damaging driver with your fingers..

    This first part of my mod is super easy and reversible,
    and is the safest "one piece" solution.
    Just cut inner diameter to size, (so it will rest on the yellow plastic edge) and drop in!
    Never a need or danger to touch the driver ..

    WAIT... THERE'S MORE!...
    YES MORE!!:

    Also, by placing this "drop in" foam material, we also have possibility to tame/neutralize the treble as well, (depending on preference).

    How?..By choosing the thickness of the inner diameter that is to be cut.
    [​IMG]

    Mine is cut thin as I would recommend...but...
    Those with sensitive ears can adjust for smoother treble region by leaving the foam ring thicker.
    [​IMG]
    This will not kill air or details like other traditional "treble" reduction methods (pads or dots lol) because it does not cover or get in the way between the driver to pad area!
    [​IMG] to
    :)
    [​IMG]
    Ok, that is the end of part one...
    So the first part of the mod is accomplished..
    Enjoy new found Sonic benefits!
    Adjust tone to your liking!

    As stated before, this part of the mod alone is MASSIVE in benefits,
    and substantial enough for most users.
    But if you want MORE (don't we all), then proceed to part two...

    Second section and SECOND PART of the mod... Next post..
    *******
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2016
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  3. Maxx134

    Maxx134 Friend

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    **Reserved for instructions part 2 of 2.
    Pics to follow**


    INSTRUCTIONS 2 of 2 !:

    SECOND PART MOD,
    Part two (optional):

    **WARNING**:
    I take no responsibility for those willing to take on this part of the MOD.
    It is dangerous.

    I will try my best to show you how to proceed, BUT
    You must be good at handling delicate $3K objects like a jeweler!
    Proceed at your own risk!

    Preface; Discussion; Description:

    This Second part consists of increasing "presence" and air with a touch more solidity of sonic imaging.
    This section is what changes the HEK into another animal more "reference" and akin to the likes of a huge "Code-X" or HE6 in terms of resolve and image clarity.

    Images at the extreme boundaries of the soundstage do not diminish into obscurity but gain solidity and realism of focus. In other words, more of a "reference" type can.
    Ok so how is this done?...
    FOR DETAILS read on:

    This is accomplished with adding two layers of a silk material called "Organza",
    [​IMG]
    *Pic*
    known for its sonically transparent qualities...
    Placing the two nicely cut driver shaped layers at the rear side of the driver...
    [​IMG]
    *Pic*
    The way I see it, is that sound is still transparently released, but more back wave pressure is retained,
    So the driver sound will push more out the front.
    More driver frontal detail than escaping out the rear.

    The second reason this material was used, was because we did not want any solid type of rear damping, which was also tested.

    *Pic*
    [​IMG]
    Neither felt or foam or shelf liner structures in the rear ,
    which would pose reflections back into the driver,
    and would thus alter soundstage sense of space and layering.

    This part of the mod is WAY easier said than done!
    Why?
    Because it involve the painstaking process of driver removal...

    It may LOOK deceivingly simple to do from looking at the obvious screws around the unit,
    But actually NEEDS to proceed in a nicely delicate manner, (as I will show you)...

    We must gently pull driver up and out, just enough to place material, and not wind up taking the whole thing out.
    It easier and less invasive so less risk touching the driver and damaging it.

    You can also take out driver fully, but that only prolongs the process of putting things back together..
    We will do it in the least way to move things around..

    Remember there are the wires on one side of driver which have to gently go back in place,
    so this partial removal will be done, slow and gentle, with special attention to not touch driver.
    Also to not risk having any screws or screwdriver or other objects in proximity fall into it!

    There is actually a "method" to do this safely.
    Working on a stable surface for your arms helps, , and calm patience is required.

    Therefore all the following instructions written next,
    will be a bit more delicate and detailed.

    Ready?
    Here we go...
    If in doubt, read the whole thing again!.

    *****

    STAGE TWO - PART TWO, 17 POINTS! :
    1- goto Amazon or another place and order a material called "Organza", of your choice color.

    2- you will have a ton of material but only need to cut 4 pieces shaped to fit in grill area.

    3- make sure area is clear and free of anything near the headphone, only the 4 pieces you cut.
    We will use two layers for each grill, so you can put two together.

    4- when ready to proceed to unscrew the driver, choose a light yet secure-grip type screwdriver, not some thin metal one...
    Why?
    We CANNOT afford to drop the screw driver into the driver area.
    Yes, this sounds dumb, but mistakes happen, and your fingers will get tired as it will take many turns on each screw, as the screws have long threads...
    Also,
    Make sure you place these screws far away from the immediate work area of the driver!

    5- positioning (height elevation) of the driver in relation to the screwdriver while unscrewing, is also a factor for safety...
    Safest way I noticed is to hold the cup in palm of hand and position that hand higher, so that the screwdriver is ALWAYS below the cup, and can never fan into the cup.

    *Pic*
    [​IMG]
    Proceed unscrewing screws at bottom,
    So in case any screws fall, it falls below, and not fall into the driver:

    *Pic*
    6- after screws removal, now lay unit down flat ( I twist cups and place on top of other driver) and proceed to lift to remove the black plastic piece, then yellow piece, and finally black foam piece.

    7- Now time to lift driver? No!..
    It's Time to OBSERVE...
    Take note of the socket area, where the wire comes in...
    It can come out and is actually two pieces.(!)
    We will not bother with it, except that you should know that the driver will not come out directly as it is
    BEHIND THIS SOCKET..

    So the socket is actually in front of the driver and prevents a direct ready removal of the driver.
    THAT'S OK, the driver will be lifted up at an angle from top.

    8- We are only going to lift driver at top, so at an angle then pull out slightly,
    In order to insert the material.
    Now on to gently lift the driver, at the top end..

    9- To lift driver...(finally)..
    DO NOT PRY THE EDGES!!
    Carefully grab one of the nuts of the driver at top end to lift up,
    Then once you have enough lift, grab it on side edges...
    Then gently slide driver up so that the bottom end clears the socket, then out at an angle motion rest of the way.
    Do not lift the driver to high as the wiring is still attached to socket.
    We only need enough lift to be able to slide in the Organza silk under the driver and onto the grill.

    10- Once laid in place, gently place drivet in at same angle you lifted out.
    So the bottom of the driver can align behind the socket.

    11- The Organza material will not lay perfectly flat as it is so delicate, and conforming to the surfaces.


    12- Now DO NOT OBSESS over how the material looks, as it will be wavy and will release any wrinkles over time.
    THIS is INTENDED TO BE SO!!

    *Pic*
    [​IMG]
    Observe my unit and see the material not taut.
    This is acceptable and EXACTLY what we want..
    We want a "relaxed" soft, pliable cloth, NOT a tight taut cloth!!!

    So when handling the unit to turn and observe the grill side,
    EXTREME care must be taken to actually HOLD THE DRIVER IN PLACE,
    so it does not shift or fall out of place when moving.

    The pressure of the driver against the rear grill will securely hold the Organza material in place.

    Also, we want TWO layers.
    One layer was barely noticeable and provide same soundstage with a touch more presence.
    Yet upon extended listening it was not enough and necessary to use TWO layers, to "dial in" the satisfaction, certainty and solidity of image like the Code-x and full moded HD800 gives.

    As an analogy, picture the movie "star trek" where you are pulling in an image on the teleporter, and the image of the person is almost focused in, so you dial it in from obscurity. It is no longer is obscure and distant or half existing..

    Same thing, with this scenario of the furthest images stuck onto the end of the soundstage far reach.
    It is pulled into focus and into life.
    This is the impression of image certainty & presence is what I am talking about,
    which only in doing this mod, will it also be revealed to you, (what I am trying to convey).

    13 - Once the driver is laid back into place, make sure the wire is gently positioned back into almost same place.
    It is not critical to be exact here,
    but care must be taken that the wire is not on top of screw holes, or the "slot" holes where the black plastic tabs go.

    14- once driver and wiring is positioned properly,
    gently place back the black foam, yellow plastic, and black plastic with tabs, which must go in with some slight pressure.
    DO NOT FORCE ANYTHING.

    If black plastic does not want to go in, that usually will means either the driver is not in exact position.
    So just lift up plastic pieces and adjust driver slightly.

    15-Almost done, but this is the time you need the MOST patience...
    Time to carefully take, insert, and actually screw in, ONE screw at a time, almost all way.
    BY now, your hands WILL BE TIRED.

    So remember:
    Always working with the screwdriver held below the driver (at a lower height) at bottom, and rotating position of the unit in your hand to the next holes already lower,
    rather than moving the screwdriver in a position being held above the unit.

    Why not just lay flat an place screws?
    We don't want gravity to work against us.
    Remember, you are not working as an electronic repair person,
    But AS A JEWELER!!

    Also, The driver has a strong magnetic field that you will NOT notice...
    Although is does not seem to attract, it is STILL THERE!
    The large oval shape makes a screw or screwdriver EASILY want to tip over and fall in...!!
    Remember also that the membrane area actually covers the whole area of the driver!.

    You do not want to touch, puncture or stretch the membrane.
    With my first unit, I was curious and so touched this membrane with Q-tip to clean it's "oil stains",
    Which caused a stretch mark(!)
    It did not go away, yet performance was not affected luckily.
    :p

    Once all screws are in, carefully tighten equally but be careful NOT to over tighten..

    16- now you can proceed to place the "step one" acoustic coupling foam" in place!
    Finally!
    Then close up with the earpad...

    17- CONGRATULATIONS...!!
    If you made it this far, pat yourself on the back and take a break before attempting to repeat,
    THE WHOLE DAM THING ON THE OTHER SIDE!!!

    SO TAKE A BREAK!!!
    WE DON'T WANT SHAKY HANDS!!

    Also, now is a good time to compare the two sides, to hear the difference that the rear modification makes...
    To see if you like the changes.
    [​IMG]
    Always remember that much patience, thought, and perseverance is "key" to not running into problems,
    such as the tiny wire breaking at the socket connection...
    This happened to me twice when modding, so be prepared to just simply re-solder..
    [​IMG]
    If your not good at assembling and do not have steady gentle hands,
    Then just try Step one (acoustic coupler), which is probably Safest way to go for most users...

    Good luck!
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2016
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  4. jerg

    jerg Friend

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    Bravos for figuring out what to do with that hollow volume around the driver! I wonder what different density materials slotted into that space would do to the sound signature. Maybe a higher density foam would couple the drivers to the earpads more strongly, who knows!

    Still, I applaud you for your courage (especially for driver extraction for the organza part :p).
     
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  5. Maxx134

    Maxx134 Friend

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    Yes, indeed...
    A whole plethera of different tunnings!!!
    The original HEK has the potential to be a "million - headphones - in - one " headphone!
    A veritable gold mine of different signatures can be made!

    Want a different sound?
    Just drop in a different density foam!
    100s of different signature tonalities..
    The only common denominator would be the large soundstage!

    If Dan (Mr Speakers) made this can, I bet he would have a foam to simulate every other can tonality on the market!

    HifiMan dropped the ball on this headphones untapped potential to be the camilion of headphones with limitless tonalities from simple drop in "acoustic couplers"!
     
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  6. Maxx134

    Maxx134 Friend

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    Oh,
    I forgot to add that the density of the foam I posted can also be adjusted more dense...

    By cutting a taller height, the foam
    will compress more when you place the ear pad on,
    So it will simulate a denser foam.

    I have another set of pads to destroy and extract the pads,
    So I will test different density levels soon.

    Edit: the problem in my mind with too much density would be less absorption and more reflection...
    In other words, a sonic "finger print" of the coupler itself.
    Maybe leading to a proximity effect of hearing a closed in sound..
     
    Last edited: Aug 25, 2016
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  7. Gilels

    Gilels Rando

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    Brilliant! Both concepts about acoustic couplers and Organza are highly accomplished than expected.
    BTW, could I insert Organza from the fence side of HE1000 but not to disassemble it?
     
  8. Maxx134

    Maxx134 Friend

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    If I still had my HEX, that would have been discussed as well..
    [​IMG]
    :drunk:
     
  9. Maxx134

    Maxx134 Friend

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    I can't say no but the thought is that I don't think the effect would be the same, as the intent was material to seal all around by the driver foam gasket.
    It is not there to filter the sound, and the sound does leak right thru it.
     
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  10. Gilels

    Gilels Rando

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    Everyone must be very carefully about Stage II. IT IS HIGHLY DIFFCULIT no matter when you tear down or assemble it, always remember the original path of wires which are the one of the weak points for the whole HE1000.
     
    Last edited: Aug 29, 2016
  11. pedalhead

    pedalhead Friend

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    Cheers Maxx, I'm not brave enough to attempt part 2 but I'll definitely give part 1 a go on my HE1000 & will report back :D.
     
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  12. Serious

    Serious Friend

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    I'm pretty sure the front damping mod is a great benefit. Has noone thought of this before? In hindsight this seems pretty obvious.
     
  13. Maxx134

    Maxx134 Friend

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    Not yet.
    The wires aren't actually bad.
    They look to have silver in them.
    Problem is the way they soldered to a tiny socket which has no post to attach a wire.
    THAT'S why it comes off.
    Just put everything back and touch a tiny bit of solder there.
    Striping the wire will be hardest thing to do.

    No one should be opening this unit unless they intend to get the rear.
    But I already did this and did not like traditional materials.
     
    Last edited: Aug 26, 2016
  14. pedalhead

    pedalhead Friend

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    Ok, I've spent a productive lunch break performing part #1 of the mod on my HE1000s. I tried a few different thicknesses of foam and settled on these...

    wider fitted 1.JPG wider fitted 2.JPG

    I need to spend some more time listening, but initial thoughts are positive & I think you're onto something here. Soundstage is indeed a bit smaller, but more focused, less diffuse...this is good. I'm hearing a general lessening of the soft HE1000 sound with a corresponding increase in slam (hallelujah). A bit of Infected Mushroom & comparing with my HE-560 proved that pretty quickly. I usually listen to the HE1000 with EQ removing 2dB @ ~8khz. I'd say the mod as I've done it gets about half way to that EQ setting. I tried thicker inserts which went further to reducing the top end but the perceived loss of soundstage was too much for me. I settled on a middle ground thickness, which so far seems to be a good compromise.

    Certainly, this appears to be a very worthwhile and easy mod to liven up the HE1000. Thanks for sharing it :).
     
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  15. Maxx134

    Maxx134 Friend

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    I will be testing the height of the foam next, not the inner thickness.

    The height will compress once pads go on, and simulate a different density foam.
    I will then post results.

    But...

    Yes, your observation was an initial observation with me as well...
    Sub bass is more articulate as well.

    I compared my mod to the LCD-X and the hd800.

    The layering of soundstage, clarity of bass, and instrument separation is way superior to the LCD-X.

    LCD has more fun type bass being more punchy but as I said soundstage is not up to HEK & HD800 level..

    HD800 always remains the can to beat for soundstage presentation.

    In comparison
    Modded HD800 (HD800x) remains wider with increased presence from elevated treble region.
    Although it has the SD mod, it needs the SBAF liner to level out more neutral, like the way member "Serious" has his.

    The HEX is very neutral in comparison, So it's presentation is not aggressive and with both extremes of frequency range playing seamlessly integrated into mids so nothing is missed.

    In comparison:
    The LCD-X obscures mids with its bass.
    The hd800 obscures mids with its treble presence


    As I mentioned elsewhere, the Code-X had the best tonality (with Audeze Pads)
    Because it had neutrality and realism while not lowering the treble presence.
    But the HEK , while having more neutral treble, is just on another level above all cans mentioned in terms of soundstage layering and separation.
    While the hd800 has more width,
    The HEK places the stage with more space, separation and more depth.
    So width "air" is not as wide.
    There is zero diffusion of this air,
    And, for example, in a jazz song, I was able to hear the breath of an sax player,
    Where as the HD800 treble region "masked" this occurrence a bit,
    Because the "breath" involved a bass region element.

    The overall effect was an increased liveliness & aggressiveness of the HD800,

    While the HEK was more neutral and delicate showing details presented in an effortless manner.
     
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  16. Maxx134

    Maxx134 Friend

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    Forgot to say my HEK comparison was with the rear mod.

    I hope to gain benefits with increasing foam density, so rear mods won't be needed,

    But my guess it that to much foam density will cause it's own reflections, and will mainly affect treble response(by level of treble absorption thru damping), not image focus like rear mod.

    So there is a limit, and need to do a search for other materials to be made into this shape.
     
  17. pedalhead

    pedalhead Friend

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    I'll be interested to read your thoughts on the foam density. From my brief playing around today, I (perhaps obviously) found the thicker foam did indeed have a greater effect (reduction) on treble. I also tested with quite small thicknesses, just enough to fill the cavity without much compression and poke out just a little bit....this was less successful on all counts. I suspect the foam needs an amount of compression to be effective in this scenario. I'd like to try a decently thick height with narrow width (again, just enough to fill the cavity), but I struggled to get the foam to stay in place that way.

    One thing's for sure, this mod appears to be super tunable if you have the patience (and enough spare headphone pads to rip apart!). It would be extremely interesting to get some measurements with various sized inserts.
     
  18. Maxx134

    Maxx134 Friend

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    Yep, it making physical contact from the bottom to the pads gives it the bass coupling and subsonic detailing.


    Ok good to know you tried higher thickness.
    The only other ways to test density would be to try a denser material or stiffer material.

    The main issue would be shape to fit.
     
  19. m17xr2b

    m17xr2b Acquaintance

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    I am currently listening to the HEK with the first mod. The treble feels just a little more defined and a little less sibilant. I think it fixes the only issue I had with these as I felt the treble notes would start great but not finish properly,at the end of the note it would become defuse if that makes sense. The low end seems to have just a little more punch but I need to do some more listening to confirm. I used one brainwavz pad so I have one more to test out a different thickness.
    I think it was well worth it as it brought the last few percents of improvements I needed. Not sure if I would upgrade to the V2 now if I cannot do the same mod.
    Thanks Maxx134
     
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  20. Maxx134

    Maxx134 Friend

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    I recently tested more dense foam by cutting a taller piece and squashing down pad to fit.

    Results were poor.
    Change in tonality more closed in darker sound.
    Foam sounds most neutral and open air with least compression.

    Would need a totally different material to try next.
    For now I am enjoying existing mod the most.

    Also,
    IMHO there should never have been a V2,
    But instead a new model name,
    Because HEK V2 will not sound the same.
    "Improvement" overall will come with different soundstage and signature.
    Let's hope for the best.
    HEK V1 will be discontinued once V2 arrives..
    :(
     
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