So, all of the Walnut X.3 PCBs have been fully populated, save for a couple of less than optimum mounting conditions for the amorphous core transformer option. Doug has worked with me for a fix and I'll have that in hand sometime next week. It has zero effect on operation; we are just always looking for the most robust way to assemble parts, especially when it comes to expensive transformers. The final PCB assembly also includes the power socket for the AC/AC walwart. The socket we chose is attached with a nut on the inside of the back plate. If it was hard-wired, that would make it impossible to remove the back plate without de-soldering. I need to emphasize that unlike the T4, which was designed to allow tube-rolling and changing jumpers for different wall power voltages, the Walnut X.3 is not really designed for disassembly. "No user-serviceable parts inside" as the ubiquitous warning labels state. It's easy enough to remove the top plate, but the rest of the case assembly or disassembly can get quite complicated. Regardless, a de-soldering requirement for disassembly doesn't help anyone, so the power socket is attached to the PCB with Molex connectors. Here's a couple of pics, showing the procedure I went through to fabricate the power socket connections: Above, I have the gold Molex wiring pins, the sockets, and my trusty Ideal wire stripper. The wire is what I've used for over a decade for audio hookup wire: 22ga, multi-stranded silver-plated, teflon-coated from John's Wire Shop on ebay. After crimping on the Molex spring pins, I slide on a piece of heat-shrink on each wire lead, then sollder them to the power socket using my cheapo Harbor Freight helping hands: Once the power socket is wired up, I push the Molex spring pins into a two-pin housing for connection to the header on the PCB. Here's a power socket, with the Molex connector attached to the PCB: You may notice my makeshift binder-clip heat sink at front. More on that in the next post.