Discussion in 'Headphones' started by purr1n, Apr 21, 2020.
what did you want to know?
Their relative performance compared to the usual suspects (YH-1?, YH-2?, T10?), mod-ability.
The drivers have huge potential but the narrow housing and nasty earpads put them in the pro30 camp but with better drivers ( more extended into lower frequency)
I bought a brand spankin NIB pair recently but won’t be modding them for some time. So not familiar but interested!
I think I still have 2 BNIB - too many orthos, I should purge
Never. Purge. Orthos.
You already joined the club there’s no turning back now.
I agree with what @dBel84 said, if I may add, I found the Echo TDS 16 to be subjectively less efficient than the Realistic Pro 30. Ear pads were replaced on both units but the TDS16 is stock while the Pro 30 has two vent holes covered with felt dots. I prefer my YH-1 and T-10 over both units.
After hearing great things about these vintage orthos from other threads, I got a pair of Yamaha YH-1 couple of weeks ago. This little beast is impressive! I wish I knew about it when I started playing with headphones. I still can't it makes FR flat to 50 Hz with these little cups. The driver on the left side probably got damaged or something that it only goes down to 100 Hz and mismatch at other places. Then I got a pair with matched driver, but crappy headband. I transferred the headband and started playing with the mismatched pair.
I generally don't like the comfort of on-ear headphones, so I 3D printed a full size baffle for it. I tried all the earpads I have, and the SRH1840 pads seems to give the flattest response (but still not as good as the original). It only reached down to 100 Hz with a wide dip around 2 kHz. Also the part that extended out interfered with the headband. Maybe making a bigger and dampened cup would help bass extension. Then I need to worry about how to mount the driver, because the original drivers float on foams. Fitting the cup into HD58x headband would solve the headband issue. I think I'm in a rabbit hole modding it. At that point, it's not too much to ask to building driver as well. I'll just enjoy the matched pair for now and worry about this pair later.
I posted the 3d print file here. It should be visible 24 hours from now, since I just registered the account on Thingiverse.
awesome! I’ve always wanted to do that. What you did is interestingly similar to what Fostex did with their 1978 T10 to make the original T20 (T20v1) except they used different drivers in each. But for the housing, they just added a big round baffle to the T10 housing.
have you damped the driver at all?
Cool pictures! I like the vintage Foster look a lot more than the t50rp look. I haven't damp the drivers yet. It feels like there's too little room in the rear to fit cotton balls. Maybe I should replace the foam with kitchen towels or thick craft felts. I'm eager to find out how much bass it could gain back with damping.
I'm aware measuring supra-aurals with the MiniDSP EARS can be amazingly frustrating, but I don't suppose you'd happen to have ones from before and from after you'd installed the extended baffle, as a point of reference?
I changed the foam to 3 layers of 2mm craft felt. It couldn't fit more without further modification. I tested all my pads again, and the srh1540 pads turn out to be the flattest. The damping also seem to alleviate the channel mismatch.
About measurements, I'm actually having a weird problem with my laptop that everything has a 6 kHz dip somehow... I'm still figuring it out. Thus I took a reference measurement from my HD6XX. I took some lousy measurements without battling with the seal too much. The stock measurement is from the other pair that I didn't mod. I guess the worsened 1.5 kHz is caused by sitting further away from ear, and the peaks around 10 kHz could be fixed by (ugh) kitchen towel. Overall, I think this mod is more about comfort than sound, but the baffle touching headband issue should still be fixed for my wide head to feel comfort.
I just took a quick listen, it's a lot better than using 1840 pads without extra damping. There's more treble than stock. It now sounds like a modded t50rp with improved bass extension IMO.
leave the stock foam to keep the felt pushed up against the driver. Driver damping must be against the driver directly. You’re not soaking up reflections like with the T50rp (it comes with driver damping stock) you are damping the driver. Two very different but equally important things. You should easily get flat bass extension all the way psst 20hz with the Yamahas even with circumaural pads though that makes it more difficult. Check out the FR graphs of my modded Yamaha. I’ve got an HP1 here which I’ve modded to be very flat across the whole FR range. So it’s possible. But I’ve also spent a decade figuring out how to do that...
Also craft felt may not be dense enough. If you’re using 2 lsyers it’s not dense enough. Try to find some dense 100% wool felt. Natural fibers are best IMO.
i did a simple mod on mine testing for potential and don’t like what I hear. Foggy recessed midrange. It could be they need a different damping scheme but from what I heard I don’t see a ton of potential worth spending a lot of time on. I might revisit them though.
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