Raspberry Pi I2S to SPDIF Hat

Discussion in 'Digital: DACs, USB converters, decrapifiers' started by Michael Kelly, Apr 30, 2016.

  1. Clemmaster

    Clemmaster Friend

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    It's 24V @ 0.5 amp => 12W
     
  2. Biodegraded

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    (Slaps forehead) - forgot it isn't the voltage that's the limit. Jumper back in, 5v removed, and first impression is that @rlow is right...

    Edit: Increased 'cleanliness' in the treble, maybe more liquid mids (piano), more weight in the bass. Subtle though.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2020
  3. Clemmaster

    Clemmaster Friend

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    @Michael Kelly : did you change the DC plug in the 24V+ version of the Pi2AES versus the original run that accepted 12V+?

    I'm asking because, looking at the website for the current revision, the DC jack is 2.5 x 5.5 mm (which actually mates perfectly with the 24V Jameco => no need for adapter).
    I have the earlier version that takes 12V and the 12V Jameco is 2.1 x 5.5. It works without adapter, too :confused:
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2020
  4. hifiandrun

    hifiandrun Almost "Made"

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    I second to this. Just be aware that this configuration may fry the PI2AES if you are not using a 5V DC for the board.

    Off the topic. I am not 100% sure if using a Pi3B+ results better sound than a Pi4B. I tried both when this was mentioned awhile ago. To me, Pi4B brought a slightly sharper and dynamic sound. But I only listened when using the Pi3B+ or Pi4B as a pure squeezelite player. There were no external HD attached and the LMS server was running on another Pi clone which has a nvme SSD socket.

    The recent Pi4B 8GB has an updated power supply design. I am interested to learn if there is a sonic difference between the older Pi4B (1GB, 2GB, 4GB version) and the new one.
     
  5. Walderstorn

    Walderstorn Friend

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    This topic is so long and it seems there's a big variation in power supplies among users, which, makes me confused as heck.

    Which type of power supply could i buy, in Europe, that powers any of these or are they different? I've seen people use very different things, from iFi to chinese brands... i just want something good, with low noise, that powers everything needed (i read the problems for people running two power supplies). For example, would the official one be able to power the PI2AES and the Raspberry 4 at the same time?

    I ordered a Pi2AES and the screen case (i will buy one eventually) but it seems that i read 3 or 4 times that it's advisable a raspberry pie 3 instead of 4. Is this still the case? Just on the previous post it was mentioned that the 8gb version has a new power design. Anyone that can shed a light on this?

    Thanks to @toddrhodes on the other thread i also got the memory card and usb adapter.

    Thanks for the help in advance.
     
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2020
  6. Michael Kelly

    Michael Kelly MOT: Pi 2 Design

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    All outputs are active simultaneously. So you can switch the dac between coax and Opto to see what the differences are.
     
  7. Michael Kelly

    Michael Kelly MOT: Pi 2 Design

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    We have an using the same 2.5mm plug from the beginning. If you take a close look at your power supply, you might see that the end has a small spring inside that allows it to connect to 2.5 or 2.1. This sounds great, but actually it kind of sucks because the spring wears out and doesn’t always make a great contact.
     
  8. Michael Kelly

    Michael Kelly MOT: Pi 2 Design

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    I am sorry that this sometimes seems so confusing. However we have been stating from the beginning that using our 24 V supply (or really anyone’s high-quality 24V supply) will work to power both the PI2AES and the raspberry pi to its full capabilities.

    As for pi 3 versus pi 4, I am of the opinion that you choose it based on your expected usage. The 3 is a little lower power and works absolutely perfectly as an audio player. The 4, of course, has more horsepower and can serve as a multi media platform in addition to audio. But, at the end of the day, an extra $35 get you whichever one you don’t already have. Try them both!
     
  9. gixxerwimp

    gixxerwimp Professional tricycle rider

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    I was able to switch from separate power supplies (stock Meanwell PSU to the PI2AES, wall wart powered USB hub to Pi Zero W) to a single power supply, on the fly, by replacing the jumper and then disconnecting the Pi's USB power. The two-way power protection circuit seems to work quite well. Rebooting the Pi isn't a big deal, but I did it for science to see if it would work.

    Don't know that I can hear any difference, but it simplifies my setup. I originally powered them separately thinking that doing so would keep any "dirty" stuff from the Pi away from the PI2AES. But if there's no advantage to doing so, it makes more sense to just run them off the Meanwell PSU.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2020
  10. Biodegraded

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    If the plug on your 12V is not one of the springy 2.1's referred to by Michael above, it must be a 2.5mm. Jameco does both sizes for their 12 and 24V units, and I just tried the 2.1 of the second 24V I bought for my phono preamp (unit cost vs fixed shipping cost made this a no-brainer) and no way will it fit the Pi2AES socket. Anybody looking for power supplies for the Pi2AES should bear this in mind - you'll need one with a 2.5mm plug or a 2.1 to 2.5 adaptor.

    Oho, you really want to feed my nervosa, don't you... :p

    Dunno whether going from two to one power supplies helped, but after more listening I've concluded Pi2AES coax bests my CD player's coax output for the reasons I gave in previous posts.

    This is somewhat annoying, because what I now see before me is a minefield of rabbit-holes (what?) where lying in wait are DACs with AES or BNC inputs, sources of digital music with better-than-redbook resolution, etc...
     
  11. Michael Kelly

    Michael Kelly MOT: Pi 2 Design

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    Don’t forget I2S over HDMI or direct I2S via RJ45! :eek::eek::eek:
     
  12. gixxerwimp

    gixxerwimp Professional tricycle rider

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    Last edited: Jun 13, 2020
  13. Biodegraded

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  14. Michael Kelly

    Michael Kelly MOT: Pi 2 Design

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  15. Biodegraded

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    The recommended specs are always pretty generous, and I think allow for other peripherals like keyboards and screens that might be run off the board.

    Pi 4 might want a bit more - but if I wasn't trying to install the operating system, my 3B & HifiBerry Digi+ HAT would run without issue with 5W. So far, the 12W Jameco is kicking the 3B & Pi2AES along fine.
     
  16. Michael Kelly

    Michael Kelly MOT: Pi 2 Design

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    Agreed. :)
     
  17. Dr J

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    Been powering the Pi4 (4GB) with an iFi iPower X 5v and the Pi2AES with iPower X 15V, iPower 15V, Auralic Aries LPS 16V and JaysAudio LPS50 (Aries) 16V. Had no glitches with any of these.

    The jury is still out, but I think I hear faster transients and more precise soundstage with the iFi powersupplies, compared to the stock MeanWell and Aries, and possibly also compared to the Jays.

    The Jays and the Aries on the other hand are maybe a bit more full-bodied and may dig out more micro detail (which is odd) than the iFi. Maybe. Or perhaps they exhibit less of the incisive nature of the Pi2AES.

    I think the above correspond to the experiences of a few others here with respect to the switcher vs. linear power impact on the transients.

    Not easy to spot the differences, need to continue listening, so take this with a large grain of salt.

    Edit: Chain is Tidal or CD rips -> ethernet -> Pi4 + Pi2AES (Moode) -> AES -> Yggdrasil -> XLR -> Goldpoint or Freya S passive -> XLR -> Genelec 7060 -> XLR -> Genelec 8050 -> acoustically treated room -> middle-aged ears and brain. Pi is underclocked and all unnecessary HW and services disabled, no other devices connected.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2020
  18. hifiandrun

    hifiandrun Almost "Made"

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    I have tried different ways to power the PI2AES. I would say that using exotic power supply arrangements such as separated linear power supplies did not improve the sound of the PI2AES by much, most likely is to get different "flavor". I end up just use one 24V power supply because I believe that Michael designed the board around a switching power supply. Michael chose an ultra low noise voltage regulars for critical components after the on-board DC-DC converter. The board is simply an example of great engineering. As the result, we get a product that has the top performance and the best cost/performance ratio. Allo Digione Signature HAT can sound very good too, but it costs more, has less outputs, and its sound is very sensitive to the power supply. It is a great board for people who like to experiment and fine tuning. It is too much for me so I sold mine and kept the PI2AES.

    However, I do suggest to find a good switching-mode power supply, such as the Mean Well model on Michael's website. Those switching power supplies affect the sound. I tried two other switching PS I have, one was ok the other one was really bad. Happy listening.

    Edit: tweaking is fun. That's what we do here, aren't we. What I really meant was that the PI2AES is not affected by its power supply by much. Swap the DACs, the digital inputs, the interconnects, the tubes, etc. would result more significant differences. I once added a 6dB attenuator to the Bluejean co-ax cable between the PI2AES and the DAC, I thought that I could hear a hint of difference... oh schiit.
     
    Last edited: Jun 13, 2020
  19. msommers

    msommers High on Epipens

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  20. earnmyturns

    earnmyturns Smartest friend

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    I have two Pi2AES setups: Pi 3B with screen, for standalone use with moOde (currently idle as I'm working from home), and Pi4B without, for Roon streaming with Ropieee (wired Ethernet). Both powered with the stock Meanwell 24V. I had other power supplies around (Sbooster etc) and I tried split power, but the Meanwell works very well and is way more convenient. I didn't really need Pi4B instead of Pi3B, though, and the 4B runs hotter.
     

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