The All Purpose Advice Thread

The Slappa Hardbody Pro is tough to beat (and beat on) for the price...

https://www.amazon.com/Slappa-Full-...qid=1485889062&sr=8-8&keywords=headphone+case

 

This is exactly what I was looking for, thanks!

 

I have just acquired a refurbished Technics SL1210. Is it normal / within tolerances for the platter to undulate (wobble) by about 1mm (a guess) when spinning? Or do I have unrealistic expectations of a SL1210? I performed a test recording and the waveform exhibits a steady 7.5Hz (45rpm) wave which I assume corresponds to the wobble so its not just my imagination.

EDIT: Actually, I just looked from a different angle and it seems to be more than 1mm

 

hi, guys, i got the HE1000v2 and wanted to know if anyone could recommend me a good carrying case as I travel once in awhile so something sturdy would be nice

thanks!

 

RE-00 is pretty much exact fit. Etymotic has that sort of sound too.
I personally like RE-00 much more than Zero Tenore. Build q can be issue with either, in this case I can vouch for Etymotic, I still have have some RE-6 laying around that refuse to die.

 

I just got a reply from Nelson Pass himself regarding this. He said there is no issue with stability. He also thinks the source is the issue, and advised to attenuate the source output.

I have a Benchmark DAC3 on order which has configurable attenuation at the XLR output. Hopefully that will fix it. Meanwhile I will see if I can put together a cheap resistor network for the Cambridge.

 

Rock on.

 

Still waiting on Head Direct Customer Service to contact me. The used HE-6 on HF was worn looking for $950. Not happening. The HE-560 that I auditioned was a bust. Piercing highs and not much weight to the sound for an HE-6/speaker amp nut. Initially I preferred them to my modded HD650's because of treble clarity. On longer listening, the treble "clarity" became tiring and the lack of body vs. even the HD650 was disappointing. I read through the common HE-560 mods and determined that it was too far off to begin with for me to spend a lot of effort trying to make major changes in the sound by modding. I have HF loss and tinnitus from youthful abuse and therefore prefer generally brighter sounding phones (brighter than the HD650 - even modded), but not sibilant and shrill.

Other than continuing to look for used HE-6 candidates [ETA: Problem solved. Thx @Ray !] and trying to get my pair fixed[ETA: Head Direct exchange is started $230], my next alternative headphone to try will be an SDR modded HD800. If there are any other candidates to be recommended, I would appreciate the tips.

 

Hello Guys!

Hope all is going well. I made a huge step thanks mostly to the members of this community, and now I'm looking at making some final touches.

I currently have the following:
Source-
Tidal/Foobar 2000 -> USB -> Schitt Yggdrasil -> Schitt Joten

Headphones/IEMs
Campfire Audio Vega (main pair)
ZMF Eikon (preordered so hopefully I have it soon)

Questions:
Best way to feed audio the the Yggdrasil? I see a lot of talk about various converters and even one thread where a user claimed that "usb was being bukkaked." At this price point even a small improvement is worth it to me, seeing on how much money I dropped on the DAC alone.

Are comply the best iem tips? I'm not in love with the foam tips that came with my product and I can't seem to get the spintips to stay where I would like.

Thanks!

 

Considering I mostly listen to spotify premium which is good quality but maybe not perfekt, should I still upgrade to better dac/amp than go2a or is it not worth upgrading without listening to flac/lossless?

 

Regarding USB, read this thread: http://www.superbestaudiofriends.or...crapifiers-pro-interfaces-and-bears-oh-my.62/

Regarding tips... Comply tips are generally the go-to for foam, yes.

 

Most of my collection is still 320 kbps MP3s and my library indisputably sounds better with a Bifrost Multibit than with the D/S DACs I've had, so, I'd say upgrading your DAC is still worth it.

 

Are you using a desktop computer or a laptop? A PCI/PCI-e card that supports AES out would be the best option while still using computer audio. Otherwise you're looking at USB decrapifiers/reclockers/converters. RaspberryPi/Hifiberry is a cheaper alternative.

 

When I was first evaluating Gungnir Multibit back in 2015, I used Spotify Premium a lot and found it definitely worth it over Modi 2 and similar type DACs. Amp was Mjo2, HE-500 and Ether at the time.

 

@IndecisiveLemur I noticed improvements adding a simple USB > sdpif converter in my chain (bought ifi idsd nano for $90) Namely a more layered and defined bass and sub bass. Large improvements in instrument separation, and the treble peaky-ness that always bothered me on the jotunheim have smoothed out without any perceived loss of detail. I'm not sure how much it'd affect the Yggdrasil because of its different usb implementation, but it's pretty big on the Bifrost Multibit. it's also the first time I've experienced some real depth on the hd650's, never had that before on usb.

My sis doesn't care about music fidelity at all and it's the first time she said it sounded good.

 

Thanks for the follow up! Is this the device you have https://www.amazon.com/iFi-Nano-iDS...qid=1486092208&sr=8-2&keywords=ifi+idsd+nano? Just want to confirm before I purchase

 

https://www.amazon.com/iFi-Nano-iDS...&qid=1486092208&sr=8-2&keywords=ifi+idsd+nano Sorry I forgot to paste in my original response

 

@IndecisiveLemur Don't get LE (Light edition) as that one is missing the spdif out (which is pretty important for usb>spdif conversion), you're looking for the regular ifi idsd nano. I'd recommend buying it on the used market because their retail is actually pretty high. And I'd also recommend reading the resource link @a44100Hz provided because there's a load of useful info that pertains to this topic there.

As for iem tips. I'm using JVC spiral dots with my CA orion because the stock tips were too firm, the foams were too squish, and these were just right.

 

You can either go the whole-hog and move to something that'll let you feed Yggdrasil via AES (be that via a PCIe card, a Singxer SU-1, Auralic Aries or a RedNet/AOIP unit), just add a Wyrd and stick with USB ... or, and this is what I'd recommend, do nothing, keep things as they are, and see what transpires in the next couple of months or so.

 

I'm using a desktop setup and have an available PCI express port.

I read through a good deal of the relevant thread and I'm still not 100% sure on a decision yet.

Between the
AES solution: Lynx AES16
USB Converter: Ifi dsd nano (regular not LE version,,,)
Hifiberry
is there any "better" solution or does it just come down to personal taste? It looks like the hifi berry is a very solid and affordable converter, but if I buy the ifi nano used, it appears both are in a similar price range (after the case, power supply, etc.).I'm getting one set of comply and one set of jvc tips for the IEMs..