iFi iPower: Healthier juice for one's trinkets?

Discussion in 'General Audio Discussion' started by Cos, Jan 17, 2016.

  1. Cos

    Cos Acquaintance

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    I have the LH pulse infinity DAC but given the crowdfunding delays and steep ticket price did not spring for the linear power supply. The few reviews available note that performance its significantly improved with the LPS - snake oil or not, this is above my head. In the past I noted improvement with using Shiit Wyrd in between the desktop and DAC so I am scratching my head on what to think about this.

    I am not shelling out 500-800 quid for the LH LPS's more reliable electron flow. The 200 quid for Jay's LPS is more palatable but I am not convinced I want to go through the hurdles of email ordering from Australia/Hong Kong and not having local customer support in case of problems.

    I looked for an alternative source and I found iFi's new wall wart with claims of better power supply performance than even mighty LPS, all for a fraction of the cost (50 USD online, with customer support and 60 days return). Jet fighter marketing joke aside, anybody has any experience with this?

    *** As a disclaimer - I don't get any noise from the LH with the current setup using the stock wallwart and a Tripp Isobar so not even sure I should even obsess with changing the power supply, but you know the nature of the beast...

    http://ifi-audio.com/portfolio-view/accessory-ipower/#tab3
     
  2. fraggler

    fraggler A Happy & Busy Life

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    While that may or may not help with noise on the power line, the benefits of an LPS go beyond that. Typically, you get much more consistent current, with less ripple in addition to lower noise. At least with good LPSs you do. In theory you can get a cleaner background and better handling of dynamic range due to those attributes. I had an LPS with my Pulse and, I am not 100% sure I heard an improvement/enough of an improvement to be worth it. Others swear by it. People also swore that the old Nuforce HDP was much better with an LPS. I built a very nice one (AMB Sigma11), and couldn't really tell a difference. Then again, I am happy with my budget gear, so I may not be the right one to coach you up through the higher ended pursuits.

    I think the Sigma11 still has a strong reputation and can be built for a little over $100. If you get a pro to do it, probably closer to $200-250.
     
  3. zerodeefex

    zerodeefex SBAF's Imelda Marcos

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    The jay's LPS is using a pretty nice super regulator and a decent transformer. It's better than the regular LPS and about on par with the LPS4 for about $180 shipped I want to say.

    You can buy decent 12V LPSes for $30 on eBay from China and just wire em up if you're DIY inclined. Marv has found some awesome ones for personal projects like cracking out my $50 phono pre which now sounds so good he's keeping it.
     
  4. Cos

    Cos Acquaintance

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    Interesting!
    @fraggler - what is the difference between sigma 11 and 22? Is it reasonably easy to build - how risky is to get electrocuted soldering it? (they have a disclaimer on the site on this dangers). I was looking into some simple soldering projects but not sure what skill is required for this. What case did you use?

    @zerodeefex - Jay's LPS sounds like a bargain then, will have to reconsider! I am not very gifted with DIY so may just go for something proven and easy.

    What is the difference between a LPS and iFi wall wart - tried to gauge it from Dr Google but I am not sure I get it.

    If somebody used iFi's power wart, would be interesting to hear impressions.
     
    Last edited: Jan 17, 2016
  5. fraggler

    fraggler A Happy & Busy Life

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    Sigma 11 provides a single line, whereas the Sigma 22 provides 2 (positive and negative). For the Pulse you only need a single positive 12V. It was a pretty straight forward build. The AMB forums are pretty helpful. It was probably my second project after a couple CMOY amps, so a relative novice can do it. You just have to make sure your connections are solid and secure before you plug it in and start testing. Testing is where you can get hurt if you short something. I don't remember the exact model number anymore, but I used a basic aluminum Hammond case. If you do decide to build one, size up a little on the case so you have room to work with everything. There are suggestions on the site.
     

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