LFF Code-X love/impressions

Discussion in 'Headphones' started by gbeast, Sep 3, 2016.

  1. GanGreinke

    GanGreinke Wow, I made it this far without being a friend?

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    I'm really sorry that this happened to you @Xecuter. I actually had something similar happen to a pair of PM-2's that were shipped from Australia. I didn't get a chance to see them before they went to @Audio Zenith for modification, but Alex told me that the PM-2's had a bad smell and were soiled. When I asked the seller about them, he told me that they weren't in that condition when he shipped them and even offered to refund me the total. That leads me to believe that something must have happened during shipping that messed up the headphones.

    Thankfully, Alex was able to clean up the PM-2's and complete the mods, but your experience and mine make me think that personal shipping between the US and Australia may have some issues in regards to how packages are handled. @LFF, perhaps it would be a good idea going forward to seal the headphones and case in a plastic bag of some sort as a safeguard against moisture that can seep in from poor shipping conditions.
     
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  2. LFF

    LFF Friend

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    Yeah...The interesting thing is that this is the second instance this happened to me. Both were shipped over seas. I have never had these issues with local deliveries nor with CONUSA deliveries.

    I think going forward, I will be shipping them in sealed bags with some sort of desiccant if they go too far.

    That said, I take full responsibility for the time delays. Fast work isn't good, and good work isn't fast. I'm also a bit OCD about the sound so if I don't like the measurements, I'll redo the entire thing again.
     
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  3. el1x

    el1x Rando

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    @LFF - While the state the headphones, or the packaging, were in is not the best outcome to have when receiving something you've been eagerly expecting for so long. The way I read @Xecuter's post is that he was upset with the extremely long time frame between being informed that his long awaited cans were complete to when they were actually sent. The rest was just insult to injury.

    How did it take 3 months?

    Also.. I still cant exactly see how on earth you got the wood stain on the yoke.. It doesn't make sense.
     
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  4. Arun Kumar

    Arun Kumar Friend

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    Can we please move on and let the two relevant people figure things out instead of turning things worse? Nothing good's going to come out of it by discussing this further.
     
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  5. Ringingears

    Ringingears Honorary BFF

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    This issue is really between @LFF and @Xecuter. This isn’t any other people’s business. @el1x LFF doesn’t owe you any explanations. I suggest we all but out and let them figure it out privately.
     
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  6. brencho

    brencho Friend

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    Actually I understand @el1x post, he is responding to the post made by Xec and the explanation that was posted here, which doesn't really help to explain why Xec had the experience he had. So in that sense hes just responding to public posts rather than expecting or deserving an explanation. He is responding to incongruencies and since they're posted on a public forum, we don't have magical knowledge about what to say or not to say.

    If anything the explanations offered suggest Xec's experience would have been the exact opposite of what transpired. I think Xec made his points clearly and as politely as any human would have been able to provide. I don't think that the "good work takes time" adage explains why the phones didn't ship for months after being completed etc etc etc. But being really busy with school and life and so forth does help explain it, and thats either enough or it isnt. We all can freely determine our priorities, what headphones to buy, etc. All this is to say let's not pile onto el1x here.

    PS I consider both xec and Luis audio pals and have met one of them IRL many times. No audiophiles were injured in making this post.
     
    Last edited: Feb 6, 2018
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  7. bazelio

    bazelio Friend

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    +1

    This situation, and in particular how it is handled, might be very valuable to current or prospective Code-X customers. LFF doesn't owe anyone other than Xec anything in this situation, but asking questions should absolutely not be verboten. LFF is a big boy who can decide how to respond.
     
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  8. InsanityOne

    InsanityOne Acquaintance

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    On a lighter note, I just wanted to say that as someone who has recently come to own a pair of original Code-X (the ones with the mini-XLR connectors) this headphone matches my personal sound preferences so well. It has such a beautiful and luscious sound, although my favorite part about them is far-and-away the presentation of the bass. It has adequate punch and a full body when running from my Schiit Jotunheim w/DAC module. Although the Code-X jumps to a more elevated plane when I listen to it from my DDP-1 --> iCan Pro setup. I think it may have something to do with the tubes on the iCan Pro and the fantastic DAC implementation on the DDP-1. On that setup the highs become more airy and well defined, and the mids become even more enticing. But I digress, for as much as I paid for these Code-X's (which was significantly less than most) I am extremely satisfied with this headphone. They have been on my "want" list for quite some time, so when I saw the chance to get one within my budget I immediately snapped it up.

    One thing that I wanted to discuss as well was pad-rolling on the Code-X. I know that a lot of users prefer the "stock" Hifiman flat-pads or Ether C angle pads on the HE-500's, etc. But personally the pads I have tried with the Code-X are the original Alpha pads, Perforated Lambskin ZMF Ori pads, and Audeze Leather pads. When I first heard the Code-X with the Alpha pads I felt that something was off, they sounded recessed, and the bass didn't have quite as much slam as I was expecting. So I swapped on the perforated lambskin Ori pads and most of my issues were resolved, I felt that the bass response was cleared up and that the headphone sounded less recessed overall. I stuck with the perforated Ori pads for quite some time, but then I saw several posts of users reporting that they actually preferred leather Audeze pads over any other pad so I decided to give them a shot. To my ears, the differences between the perforated lambskin Ori pads and the leather Audeze pads were not immediately as obvious as the change between the Alpha pads and the Ori pads. But after doing several hours of A/B testing I concluded that I enjoyed the sound of the Audeze pads more. The Audeze pads decreased the amount of bass impact by a slight margin, but really made the presentation of the mids and highs a bit more upfront. I think a good analogy for the difference between the two pads would be the difference between rawhide and leather. One has a raw texture and an interesting feel whereas the other has a smooth texture and refined feel. Thus, I have decided to stick with the Audeze pads for the foreseeable future, until someone can convince me that another set of pads is better. (Although I would really like to get my hands on a pair of the new LCD2C leather pads as I heard that they use memory foam instead of the original "hard" foam)

    Lastly, the only issue that I have with this pair of Code-X is that they are in fairly poor condition (see this album if you are curious, lots of good photos here: https://imgur.com/a/RKnS1). Their condition does not affect their sound at all, but it definitely makes me nervous every time I go to put them on my head. Over the past few months I have slowly been acquiring parts in an attempt to "restore" the Code-X to their original glory. I have made new grills from some aluminum focal speaker grills and I purchased a new pair of wood cups / slider covers from an HE-5 reissue owner. I hope to use these pieces to make the Code-X last for many, many more years to come. Although I am not super confident with my modding skills so hopefully I can find another skilled individual to do it for me!

    - Logan
     
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  9. Walderstorn

    Walderstorn Friend

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    "On a lighter note"...

    Kidding, thanks for the impressions and if you start restoring it I am sure some of us would be interested in pics.

    Good luck
     
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  10. Eudis Fernandes

    Eudis Fernandes Aurorus Audio - MoT

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    @LLF

    Do you use any sealant, lacquer, etc when you stain the cups? Depending in the stain it can be released through moisture in the air/humidity, changes in atmospheric preasure, and what not. Have you considered something like Tung oil to help it seal, or just some poly?
     
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  11. Elnrik

    Elnrik Super Friendly

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    Tung oil? Dear God, have you ever used tung oil?

    It never dries. It smells like a cold-war chemical weapon. It's a terrible sealant. You never want to put a varnish or poly on top of something that has tung oil on it.

    Also - From what I've seen, he uses a varnish. Could be Danish Oil. Not 100 % sure.
     
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  12. Eudis Fernandes

    Eudis Fernandes Aurorus Audio - MoT

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    Lol yes. I've had nothing but success with tung oil on my projects. Very often used on boats for its amazing sealant properties since it will penetrate the wood deeply if you thin it properly and completely harden after it cures. I'll admit it does take a decent amount of time to harden and can be a pain. Love the finish it gives tho and well worth the time.

    Check out Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner that talks about the specifics of wood finishing and touches tung oil for its amazing properties and its downside.

    I have not seen anyone complain about tung oil not being a good sealant since once dried it has waterproofing properties and cures 100% solid. Also, who will lacquer or poly on top of tung oil? I never said to do that just asking if he uses something to help protect and finish the wood. Mixing two different varnishes/lacquer will simply lead to a very bad day. But I digress, Danish oil would be superior due to the extra varnish to Tung oil since you will only need to maintain it much less over the years and would not make sense to use Tung oil in this application.
     
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  13. Elnrik

    Elnrik Super Friendly

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    You must be using a tung varnish. Pure tung is horrible. And yes, I've read the book. Still... Ick. Preference, I guess.
     
  14. Eudis Fernandes

    Eudis Fernandes Aurorus Audio - MoT

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    Pure Tung is nice as a final coat maybe they it'll never last a few days. A thinned tung mixture is what you would start with which would be premixed with a varnish. Playing with pure tung as a first coat or at all is asking for horrible day. Especially since pure tung oil is just a waste and won't hold the moment you open a tin of it.

    I don't think anyone is talking about pure tung oil when talking about tung oil anyways. Tung oil varnish is amazing stuff and leaves such a beautiful finish. Then again Danish oil is *generally* a lindseed + varnish mixture. Has it's own draw backs too. Doesn't dry as solid and less water proofing. Though it shouldn't matter as much, still good stuff.
     
    Last edited: Mar 24, 2018
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  15. InsanityOne

    InsanityOne Acquaintance

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    Was able to complete the first (and easiest) step in restoring / improving upon the Code-X's construction. I replaced the original headband with a brand new LCD2C suspension strap and yoke-kit from Audeze. All-in this mod cost $170 ($165 to Audeze, $5 for washers), but the improvement in comfort and durability is well worth it and immediately noticeable.

    I spoke with Tony in the repair department at Audeze and he was able to hook me up with these parts without even needing a serial number from an Audeze headphone (as I don't own one) and the entire process for payment (via.PayPal) and shipping (USPS Priority 2-day, which Audeze paid for) was very smooth. The only part that is not included from Audeze that you need to complete this mod are four 2.5mm washers and a small flat-head AND Phillips head screwdriver. I bought a 100-count pack from Amazon for $5 and they worked great!

    I would highly recommend this mod to ANY 1st-generation Hifiman owners are the comfort is absolutely fantastic. It turned my Code-X from a 3-4 hour wear headphone to and all-day wear headphone without a doubt. Although please note that you will NOT want to spring for the $200 carbon-fiber headband over the $125 steel-suspension headband as the holes and shape of the leather strap on the LCD2C headband are quite a bit more comfortable, at least to me.

    Anyways, enough rambling and on to the pictures:

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    [​IMG]

    If you have any questions about completing this mod please feel free to ask!

    - Logan
     
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  16. Maxx134

    Maxx134 Dunning–Kruger effect poster boy

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    I had a box (priority mail even) shipped USPS and the buyer received it with a stab hole which pinctured the box and headphone box..(!)
    Headphones survived.

    I always double box for overseas,
    With all corners taped, in case liquids try get in.

    I used to even ship huge boxes of classic boombox radios with tons of styrofoam and no prob,
    but shipping here by USPS was always worst.

    One time USPS sent my package to another state,
    and I got my box a day later,
    with the postman purposely leaving my box at neighbor,
    as the box said it had live aquarium fish on it.

    I was sure they would be dead...
    They were baby angels put in a sedative solution, so they survived!

    Anyways point is, schiit happens...
    Being that the drivers for the Code-X are extinct,
    its always good to take precautions.
     
  17. jexby

    jexby Posole Prince

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    with my LFF HE-6 not the most super comfy, went ahead and began to follow @InsanityOne advice on getting an Audeze strap and yolk.
    have the new Aud strap and yolk (tabs trimmed) ready for installation on the HE-6 cups, then encountered an issue screwing.
    (this sort of problem is not uncommon to most dudez here).

    two of the 4 screws already in the HE-6 cups are:
    a) in damn tight!
    b) the screw head metal is so soft, philips head is starting to strip! (jeopardizing the ability to unscrew, get them out)
    no matter what sized bit is used.

    the questions now appear to be:
    1. anyone with older Hifiman ever encountered the screws into cups being cemented with loctite or impossible to remove?
    2. should the screw heads strip- what is the course of action?
    drill them out? will cup threads remain intact so as to purchase replacement screw (size = ?) .

    current status: have not proceeded to strip or force removal of original Hifiman headband via the 4 cup screws since they are buggers to get lefty loosey.

    tips appreciated.
    (except those stating to trash the HE-6 and buy HD650 since Senns scale so awesomesauce no matter what.)
     
  18. cskippy

    cskippy Creamy warmpoo

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    Don't they just unscrew from the outside?
     
  19. jexby

    jexby Posole Prince

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    yes, but using brute force to try and unscrew from existing Hifiman yolk is shredding the philips head.
    ie. repeated attempts to loosen the screw don't actually turn the screw- the head strips and screwdriver bit slips. has nothing to grab/torque onto.
     
  20. cskippy

    cskippy Creamy warmpoo

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    gotcha. Hmmmmmm....need a Japanese uber screw driver with grip like super saiyan.
     

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