None of the above - Any cyclists?

I recently got a new bike! Upgraded to Campag Zonda wheels, and going to do some further upgrades I think! I'd love to get it below 8kg, or just buy a new bike again...

 

What do you guys like for non-clip shoes? I have been riding with my typical Brooks shoes for awhile and they are always getting beat up. I need something more appropriate for my block pedals.

Also, pic of my new bike! I got it at the beginning of this year. I had been researching for awhile and jumped on this as soon as I found it locally considering the difficulty in obtaining bikes today. It's a Specialized Diverge Comp E5 and it's amazing. I was able to sell my previous workhorse that I used since college, a Giant Yukon from 2005 within a matter of 15 minutes on FB marketplace.

 

Maybe try looking at some MTB shoes like these:

Amazon.com | Five Ten Men's Freerider MTB Bike Shoes | Shoes

Or something a little more bike commuter style:

Amazon.com: PEARL IZUMI Men's X-Alp Canyon Cycling Shoe: Sports & Outdoors

Both have stiffer soles and more heavy duty rubber oversoles.

 

Oh noes... I ended up buying a Giant TCR Advanced 2018 with Di2 Ultegra R8050, and Enve carbon stem/handlebars. Giants own SLR1 wheelset. Di2 is sick! Its a very plush bike compared to my CAAD10, which is seriously stiff, and uneven roads can vibrate your soul out!

Ignore the seat and handlebar angle, its not been adjusted yet

 

Congrats on new bike day! Sweet looking ride..
Love the Giant TCR and newer Propels. Yeah once you go Di2 its impossible t go back to mechanical shifting. Long term too its a no brainer. I've never had to do any maintenance on mine since i bought it in early 2017.

 

First week with TCR. Done 136,8km with it. Overall solid bike. Might be the slightly worn drivetrain, but di2 doesnt amaze me. I cant pump out 300w+ and have smooth shifts. Not that you can with mechanical either. I also find semi & full synchro to be kinda... same same. Its too slow. Manuel mode seems to be superior in terms of smoothness and speed. Its a very compliant bike, hides crappy roads very well unlike my CAAD10, which shakes your soul out. That can be kinda fun tho!

I ended up putting it for sale. Its just something about the CAAD... In fact ill try to get a CAAD12!
Sub 8kg CAAD12 must be so nice

 

What tires/tubes/air pressure do you run on each bike? In my experience, this affects ride comfort far more than the frame or wheels. I'm on my last pair of 25mm Corsas, 28mm for me from now on for nice weather and 30 - 32 for winter riding. You can get full-on race tires in these sizes now since the pros seem to have discovered the 2nd Law of Thermodynamics. Deceuninck-QuickStep exclusively run non-vulcanized 2-piece clincher tires with latex tubes, others will follow. 26mm for good roads, 30 or even 32mm for the cobbles and strada bianchi.

 

I can actually run higher pressure on the TCR, 93 front, 96 rear usually. CAAD10 I run 83/86.
Carbon hides vibrations alot better then alu

 

aah.. shame you sold off the TCR.. heck i would've been interested! As much as i ove my Time, with my heavy ass, it pays to have disc brakes for those descents!

By the way, i almost f'ing died this past friday..at the end of a descent, the thru axle on my gravel bike had worked itself loose off the tread on the fork. I had just been doing 30mph+ 10 seconds prior to coming to a stop. Soon as i hit the brakes, i felt the wheel start to come right off!! Object lesson in checking your equipment before each ride.

by the way, I run my gravel bike on most rides these days with panaracers SS 32c tubeless. Super plush ride. It doesn't feel as fast as my Time ZXRS on 25C vittoria corsa speed for sure.

 

Here is a great tool for determining tire pressure. The owner of Silca, Josh Poertner, was formerly the engineering mgr @ Zipp and was very involved in the analysis of rolling resistance among the pro teams and the transition to wider tires and lower tire pressures.

 

Thats the tool I used! Althought I lowered the psi on my CAAD to compensate for its vibrations

 

First race in 2 years for me and i did about how i expected i'd do Got shot out in under 2 laps.

Edit: The data isn't likely properly aligned. New to Garmin Virb. I'll have to try again another time.

 

envious of anyone that gets to race on actual road courses! Most of my races are on garbage roads in the boonies... But that sucks to see you make the right moves but still get popped. Tip: find wheels - you're out in the wind (judging by the shadows) way too much. Especially when you're bridging gaps, you never want to do that work alone if you don't have to. And words to live by in the peloton: If you're not moving up, you're moving back! Time to move up!

 

Been giving the TCR more time, as I flipped the CAAD10 and made 300 bucks.
Done 447km on it now, with 2 longer trips at 133 & 138km. I've also bought new drivetrain, new chain, cassette and chainrings. Still dont really feel at home on it. Might be the size. If I want to use KOPS as a guideline, I sit really far over the rear wheel, and feel like I cant get over the pedals if that makes sense. So I have to sit further forwards, with knee going 3-5cm over KOPS, but then I obviously get alot of weight on the bars. I guess I could buy a TCR in XL. I'm 193cm tall after all.

 

Years ago I read an article from Steve Hoggs (Aussie bike fitter) on how to find saddle setback

Find a road with a slight upgrade
Ride with your current saddle position, decent effort level, a bit harder than your average
Take hands off bars
If it's easy to hold that position, move saddle back 0.5cm at a time
When you get to a setback where it's hard to keep your torso in position, go back to the previous setback
If at the start you're already struggling to keep your torso from dropping, start moving saddle forward 0.5cm at a time
When you can hold your torso in place, you're done

The principal is that further forward is better for pedaling mechanics and power, but you don't want to get to a point where your back muscles are under stress; and this should also reduce the weight felt on your hands.

I had a professional fitting done and still found I had more weight on my hands than I wanted; I tried this and ended up moving my saddle back about 1cm and it made a big difference, hands were more relaxed
For a couple friends who found one of their limiters was hand discomfort, I've done the same on a trainer and moved both of their saddles back a bit which they found much more comfortable
Depending on how big a change you make, you might want to get a shorter or longer stem to keep the reach the same
If a 13cm stem doesn't get you there, then yeah, you need a longer frame

 

I'd add, too, that once you find your fit, write down your stack and reach measurements. When you pick up a new bike, just match those 2 numbers and you'll be 95% done with your fit. Oh, and on a frame that large @Prydz you're probably going to want to try a 120mm or 130mm stem - you're trying to rotate your position forward about the bottom bracket, not just moving your hips forward via saddle rail adjustments, if that makes sense.

 

My TCR has 120mm stem. I've dropped the bars down as far as possible (the included top cap is tall :/), and it feels very good for some reason. 1540mm seat/bar drop. Proper slammed we're looking at 1640mm probably, which is pretty big drop. Tho I do have long arms.

How much longer and taller would a XL fit? Can I only look at reach & stack, or do I have to factor in head tube and more?

 

Another thing to play with if you're feeling like there's too much hand pressure while in the drops or the tops is to (antithetically!) slightly rotate the bars back (i.e., taking the flat bottom of the drops and rotating towards the front of the bike) by teeny-tiny amounts. Like, a degree at a time. The nice thing is doing that tends to make riding on the tops more comfortable, too, if you're running a flatter profile top bar. For my personal preferences, I can't stand riding round profile drop bars - all my bikes have some kind of flattened tops, be it full on aero like S-Works Aero Fly, Zipp SL-70 Ergo, or my favorite, old FSA Wing Pros.

 

It's as the chart shows - the same stem, spacers and bars will be 10mm further forward and 15mm higher relative to the bottom bracket on an XL than a L
Stack and reach come from Dan Empfield @ slowtwitch.com as a way to help triathletes compare TT bikes where there is a crazy range of seat tube angles and head tube lengths. If you get a good fit and measure those 2 dimensions, you will know what adjustments you'd have to make on a different frame if you also know its stack and reach. For example, more or fewer spacers, longer or shorter stem. And it could be it's not possible if the differences are too large.

I'm a big proponent of this, makes a big difference for me

 

Whats ur guys view on cleat position? At the moment I have it 20mm behind the metatarsal joint. Neill Stanbury, whos a bike fitter you probably have seen on youtube, say it can be bad for sprinting, or hard accelerations. And I actually feel that. But then im not a sprinter