The All Purpose Advice Thread

No. What I described is what I hear from optical (vs RCA from Rpi+HAT & CD player as transports). Maybe attributing it to jitter is incorrect, but I've read similar descriptions from others who've made that attribution.

 

None, technically.

AES3 and protocols based on it like S/PDIF have per-frame CRC32, so any reasonably competent - read: anything sold in the last decade or two - decoder will just drop the frame on a bit error, and you get silence.

Timing errors, can propagate through; there are practical limits to the buffer size for timing recovery in a real time audio device, and TOSLINK has the hardest time of it in consumer gear, mainly because its the lowest common denominator here and not something expected to be of high quality like an SFP+ network transceiver.

Perceptually, this jitter is felt in treble and transients, as one might expect.

 

OK, then for TOSLINK, what's the worst BER we might see?
I ask this because I had a lot of exposure to datacom physical layer components, and it was routine that any transmitter to receiver link had to be at least 10^-9 BER, or one error per billion bits transmitted. 192kHz/24bit audio is 4.6 million bits/second, and I would think an error would have to occur much more often than every second to affect tone. If my line of reasoning is correct, that would mean maybe 10^-6 BER is the onset of audibility.

 

I have an option to acquire M50 (and M52 - not that I really need M52 but it would come together) for similar price as M51. Considering those issues should I shell extra cash and call it a day?
Also (believe it or not) found C510 brand new for similar price as M51 together with shipping and taxes. I read a lot that M51 = C510. Thoughts?

 

@ergopower you want @atomicbob for this, that's well beyond my pay grade.

I do know that if the interface is compliant to the standard, if there's sound there was no transmission error on the cable, but that doesn't guarantee the receiver managed to perfectly play the sample in the packet at the exact right time.

I do know jitter is measured in time units and not bits.

 

There are some favourable impressions and comparisons of the C510 from members here, notably bengo and famish99; type C510 in the search box.

 

Simplified definitions:
Jitter: output sample deviates from the perfect time of delivery by some amount
BER: how often a bit delivered is an incorrect bit.

 

Soundwise i found no differences between the 2 tbh.

 

Hello,
I am about to receive my new HD6XX Headphones to mix/master mainly metal (also rock and hiphop in the future).

I will be modding the HD6XX and using Sonarworks to improve the highs and lows of them, But i have thoughts if I should get some other cans alongside them.
I liked the more clear signature of the HD600, the more bass extension and impact of the HD58X, and was also heard the HD660S are more detailed with better highs and lows. Also heared the focal Elex has all the improvement regarding low and high end, speed, impact and clarity (which are not in the Sonarworks/Morphit list) and that Elear are basically the same with different pads (and do show on Sonarworks/Morphit but less naturally flat). But I also read that the focal could be less good than the HD6XX for mixing because of being so dynamic (?).

SO:
- Is there any reason to hold another HD6 series headphone alongside the HD6XX or it's redundant as the mods and Sonarworks will cover what they lack?
- Is it good to have Focals alongside for mixing master? And if so, should it be the Elex - the flat between the bunch, without sonarworks, or the Elear w/ sonarworks?

Thanks a lot!
Itamar

 

sorry for double post

 

Q: Is it worth spending $80+ (including shipping) on a 'good' replacement/upgrade tube for my Vali 2, or should I just get an Asgard 3 and then sell/give away my Vali 2? All prices in CAD for approximate local market costs.

Current setup: Laptop -> OG Bifrost Multibit with USB Gen 2 -> Vali 2 with Genalex Gold Lion E88CC -> Focal Elears with HM5 pad swap (See this thread for additional info on that).

The current tube I have in it seems to have lost its thrill for me (I suspect it's degraded in quality; it is 3 years old at this point), or maybe I'm just itching for an up/sidegrade.

I love tubes but they're just kinda an inconvenience for me at this point in time, so I'm feeling going back to solid state for a while. All research I've done on the Asgard 3 seems to indicate it plays nicely with what I want to do (more engaging, more bass), but I'm definitely open to other alternatives and recommendations (especially on the amp front). Budget isn't huge, call it $300 CAD / $200 USD. It just seems the Asgard 3 will be the best upgrade in the budget that I have.

More context: I live in Canada so Schiit ain't cheap (despite how Schiit should be duty free under trade agreements, customs/couriers routinely like to give you extra tube if you catch my drift), so I'd be buying secondhand from within the country ideally. I like deep extended bass with plenty of kick, but also good sound stage. I like to feel the bite of the bow being drawn across a cello, if that helps contextualize it any.

 

It seems like you already have a pretty good idea of what you want to do, so I would just trust your gut. IMO, it's not worth it to drop $80 on a tube for Vali 2. That said, you can usually find really good sounding tubes for <$30 (USD). There are a couple of relevant tips on that front here [link to post]. If you do decide to go the solid state route, maybe consider holding onto your Vali 2 at least until you can do a side-by-side comparison. Then you'll have a better idea of whether it still tickles your fancy.

 

I've never been charged any duties on any Schiit. GST and $10 in brokerage fees only (no PST in Alberta). It's the exchange rate and shipping cost that drive up the overall cost.

I went from Vali 2 to Asgard 3. In my opinion the Asgard is a nice step up. I also decided I didn't want the hassle of tubes anymore.

 

Just ordered an HD6XX after being out of the hobby for quite some time. I’ve looked into the Schiit Fulla (2?) as a cheap starting point to make them usable more or less. Are there any other options under $100 I should check out? I’m fine with going used but I can’t seem to find anything under 100 that will remotely do them justice. I keep a very tight budget and want to spend as little as possible for the time being without wasting money on something that sounds like ass. Magni is an option but no DAC, and for whatever reason I’m having trouble finding used units for a decent price.

 

I've got the HD58X and like the Monolith Liquid Spark (no dac) for $100 and the ifi nano idsd le for $140.
https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=33304
https://www.amazon.com/iFi-Audio-iDSD-Portable-Amplifier/dp/B01N0DVG58

 

Already ordered the Fulla 3 but thanks! Hopefully it drives them well enough to not warrant returning it and getting a Magni 3. I like the idea of having a little portable amp I can keep around or maybe move to the office once I get some better gear. All the impressions here seem to be of the Fulla 2 (quite good), but I’ve heard the Fulla 3 sounds a bit underpowered compared to the 2. So we’ll see. Above all else, it’s good to be back!

 

I have been always reading about the legendary "syrupy, tubby, euphonically colored tube sound".
Could you suggest a headphone amp for this sound?
max 350$, can be tube or SS, headphone is the HD6XX

 

I think the Schiit Valhalla 2 is probably your best bet at that price point. They pop up on Head-Fi used fairly often, but not sure if it's easy to find in Hungary/Europe.

 

The Little Dot MkIII is also in your price range.
https://www.amazon.com/Little-MK-III-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B00CHIKIDM

 

if i love the hd 6xx/650 and the lcd2 classics, would the ZMF autuer or Aeolus be a good upgrade or lcd-x? from what i read about ZMF. everything seems to be positive, and i love the fact they have lifetime warranty, also i dont own the hd 6xx anymore but i own the lcd2 classics if it matters as i sold the hd 6xx to afford the lcd2 classics

i am not looking for a major sound change as i love my lcd2 classics, but i want around the same or a bit more bass amount, while with having a tiny bit more treble, and i dont really have a preference for the mids, so a bit less or the same i would be fine with probably, and better sound stage and imaging if possible

also if possible i would like them to be a bit more comfortable, although i dont have a comfort problem with the lcd2 classics, i would just like something even better if possible in the comfort area

my budget is no more then the ZMF autuer and anything below that like Aeolus or the lcd-x which looks interesting also in $, and if i might not be able to afford autuer level of money, as it will be a gift from my dad and although he said it would be ok, he does not know for sure yet, i was also looking at the focal elex which seems like what i want also but at a price below even the lcd-x at less the $1k

i use my headphones as my primary and only audio source, so for music like edm (like the group above and beyond mostly for that type of edm) and all media from movies/shows/anime, to video games as video games is my biggest hobby

please and thanks

and are these 3 graphs i found accurate? the first is my lcd2 classics and the second is the focal elex, and third is the ZMF auetuer that i found on this site, because if it is accurate, then i think the autuer and elex is what i am looking for considering they has a bit more bass the my lcd2 classics if im reading it right and the other stuff i mentioned of what im looking for

i got the graphs from the following topics
https://www.superbestaudiofriends.o...deze-lcd2c-measurements-and-impressions.5556/
https://www.superbestaudiofriends.org/index.php?threads/massdrop-x-focal-elex.5540/
https://www.superbestaudiofriends.o...zmf-auteur-impressions-and-measurements.5338/