Discussion in 'Vinyl Nutjob World: Turntable and Related Gear' started by Falcor, Oct 10, 2015.
Vinyl flat and groovy pouch.
@Mr.Sneis have you had luck with that? I’ve used it twice now, both times it did alleviate warped/dished records but simultaneously added noise. This after a long ultrasonic bath, and wiping down the felt insert things to ensure no dust (well, to the extent possible).
I love mine, was super skeptic at first but its paid for itself by now. Best for modern 180g records. You can run iterations of flattening, best to under-do and run a second round than overdo and bubble the vinyl. 80s thin dmm records are very difficult to flat though.
First... If it plays, leave well alone! However bad it might be to watch.
Second... The world has been asking this question all my life. At least, since they stopped wondering if broken 78s could be glued. i wish we'd had superglue then!
I don’t know if this is the right thread for this but: I’m looking for recommendations on a good smallish ADC for ripping vinyl, preferably under $250 (new or used).
Using a PC? A half-decent soundcard?
I’m using a Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 myself with good results. USB powered, and I usually record from a laptop running on battery power. The price is certainly right.
iMac. In their ever-benevolent and all-knowing wisdom, Apple removed the audio input feature from the 3.5 jack a few years back.
There is a Parasound zphono-USB on Us Audio Mart that fits your bill. I've never heard one but Stereophile gave it a passing grade. $155.
Audio Advisor still has new ones for $250.
I've recently got my Sol set up and it is quite amazing. Before, I was running a modded Rega P3 with an Ortofon 2M Bronze cartridge, with a new needle with low hours. I had assumed I was going to go back to my Bronze on the Sol, and I'll definitely try it, but now I'm thinking that I could always sell my Rega P3 with a well aligned Ortofon for significantly more money than with an entry level Shure cart (my original plan)... of that money, I could always spend a significant portion on a new cartridge altogether for Sol... let's say $500-600ish. Phono pre is a Hagerman Bugle2 soon to be Bottlehead Eros 2, in both cases, gain level is adjustable although I'd prefer not to have to use step-up trafos in the Eros.
I've never had an issue with the Ortofon, I really enjoy how it sounds, but I've also never heard any other high end needle in my system, so I'm open to suggestions. I like a full-bodied, dynamic, realistic/natural sound with good imaging and soundstage (and of course as resolving as possible). I listen to a lot of heavy, chaotic music so something that can hold itself together and maintain separation and detail during heavy tracks is a must.
This may not be the best place to post this, but the NewYork Times has an article on the "The Electric Recording Co., which has been releasing music since 2012, specializes in meticulous recreations of classical and jazz albums from the 1950s and ’60s."
There's a faint whiff of orfas about it all, but there's also something heart-warming about the dedication to harnessing old technology to make pristine vinyl records. For those who can't access the article through the Times's paywall, the gist of it is this: the Electric Recording Co.'s "albums, assembled by hand and released in editions of 300 or fewer — at a cost of $400 to $600 for each LP — are made with restored vintage equipment down to glowing vacuum-tube amplifiers, and mono tape systems that have not been used in more than half a century. The goal is to ensure a faithful restoration of what the label’s founder, Pete Hutchison, sees as a lost golden age of record-making. Even its record jackets, printed one by one on letterpress machines, show a fanatical devotion to age-old craft."
Consider an MC? What's the rest of your component train?
Wouldn't Sol's aluminum platter be an issue with an MC cart? I have looked at the Zu DL-103 mkII, but I'm worried about the gain level as I'd like to avoid using step-up transformers if possible. I've also heard whispers that one can possibly mod a DL-103 by oneself, and I have pretty good fine motor skills (I often work with isolating and manipulating mineral samples that are tens to hundreds of micrometers wide), which is tempting. Otherwise I'm not too familiar with what's out there in the MC world, or what's a good value.
The rest of my signal chain is a Saga OG w/ Raytheon 6SN7, my modded JLH 1969 Class A amp, and a pair of Tekton Lores speakers complemented with dual Dayton 10" subs.... alternatively, I may listen using my heavily modded Bottlehead Crack into my HD800 or ZMF Atticus.
The aluminum platter isn't an issue at all. I have the latest cork mat that Schiit sent to me - and to be honest, I may prefer the older thin foam which they could never cut into a proper circle. This with the DL-103 on the Sol which seems to be a combination that I love. The fact that the DL-103's tonal balance is quite tweak-able via different loading options is a bonus too! People used MC carts back in the day on platters made of metal. My Classic 4 latter is all aluminum with no mat.
Some DL-103 mods are easier than others - you can go for metal caps like this: https://www.denonaluminumbody.com/
MCs will pick up a lot more hum. Use the right cables and route cables away from transformers or other hum sources. If you want to play with loading, Y-splitters come in handy - allows easy soldering of resistors. A super high-gain MM phonostage can work, but you would need to parallel resistors via the Y-splitter technique to bring down to 100 or 250-ohms.
Eros 2 is suitable for high-output MC, but for LOMC Botttlehead recommends step-up transformers which I'd prefer to avoid for now. From the brief searching I've done, the best HOMC in that range looks to be made by Hana, but according to a handful of people who have heard both, the difference sounds more preference than superiority: Hana smoother, better midrange; Bronze more analytical, cleaner bass, clearer treble extension. I've also seen people espouse the opinion that the 2M 'sounds like a good MC', but not having heard one myself I'm not sure how to feel about that. I will really have to find some time this week to finally mount the Bronze onto the Sol to see what I'm working with, but quarantine has ended up being surprisingly busy and hectic.
2M bronze and black are "MC" in that they have needle tips that will extract detail. The 2M black is a detail whore. The 2M bronze less so - it's also less forward than the 2M black. Neither have the transient response and microdynamics that a good MC will have.
The DL103 is the other way. Conical, not a detail whore, but really nice engaging sound. Can get away with murder with conicals, that is less than ideal alignment, screwy azimuth from warped records, dust and minor scratches, etc. Less surface noise too.
There's a lot of emphasis on the advanced stylus profiles these days, but a great conical sounds great and most won't be pressed to know the difference.
I am also using Ortofon and would like to move to DL103 or DL103R but do not want get expensive MC phonostage so Y splitter with resistor soldered in would be ideal intermediate solution. Dumb question to ask... What resistor value would you recommend to be used for DL103 and DL103R? Thank you in advance.
Assuming 47k on your phonostage which is effectively infinite relative to the values needed, a simple 50-ohm, 100-ohm, 250-ohm, or whatever will get you near enough to the necessary value.
For example, if I parallel a 100-ohm with 47k, I get 99.8-ohms. Close enough. I use 100-ohms for the DL103.
Thank you very much. Yes, 47K on my phonostage. I will use slightly over 100 ohm resistor to get just over ncessary 100ohm.
One last question if I may. Do we need to worry about the difference in output impedance? I see that DL103 and DL103R has two different output impedance.
Denon DL103 - 100ohm Load impedance, OutPut Impedance 40 ohms
Denon DL103R - Min 100ohm Load impedance (40ohm using a transformer), OutPut Impedance 14 ohms
LOL. Just use 100-ohm. They don't make 101-ohm resistors as they only come in standard values and then there are tolerances. In any event you may decide that you prefer 74.7-ohms or 333.1-ohms.
Get a bunch of standard values and try. Suggest 50, 75, 100, 250, 500, 1000
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