Discussion in 'Advice Threads' started by purr1n, Sep 26, 2015.
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Tk you guys. After many hours trying many changes (cables, software settings..) I found out a solution for the problem. That is lowering the latency's value on Buffer setting tab in Ifi HD usb control app to "standard" or lesser value ( I had set it to "minimum latency" so that the popping noise occurred
Yes, buffer atency set too low can result in stuttering and pops. Still, I'm glad that you've managed to overcome this issue
Is how to do this documented somewhere?
What's the secret to listening to lowfi music? I use my Porta Pros a lot still because most of the music I listened to growing up was indie music with really bad recordings. I was thinking my Aeolus could do this well, but my Aeolus is usually on a hifi chain that doesn't really do great with those types of recordings. I was actually thinking of intentionally picking up a lowfi amplifier, if that makes sense, something like a BHC with really smooth tubes, any other amp that might play the part here (Vali 2+ with smooth tubes?)?
I don't have much experience here but, for what it's worth, I've kept my pair of LCD2-Classics around because they're so good with 90s alternative/indie rock as well as punk and lofi, garage, and noise rock. These headphones do wonders with distorted, crunchy, screaming, wailing, squealing, growling electric guitars. If that's your thing.
The trick with the LCD2-Classics, though, is that they need a beefy amp and, at least with my preferences, a warmish solid-state or tube hybrid amp. I didn't have much luck driving them from the Fulla 2 or Magni 3; the Massdrop Cavalli Tube Hybrid is ok; better are the Mjolnir 1 and the Monoprice Cavalli Liquid Gold X; my favorite, so far, has been the Jot 2. I've heard good things about pairing them with the Lyr 3.
I can't find his post(s) now but I could have sworn that @purr1n keeps a pair of the LCD2-C around for poorer quality rock and pop music, which is where I got the inspiration to try them out.
My beloved Nad HP50's headband broke all of a sudden while taking them off.... I'm bummed after 7+ years of almost daily use. Any advice on how to proceed for repair (out of warranty of course, but still...) or any recommendation for a replacement with similar sound signature would be appreciated.
Get some form of pods (not IEM) - I use Plantronics Backbeat Fit w/Bluetooth and pair them to my Apple Watch w/Spotify
Go for a long run
Whatever you're listening to will sound awesome
There's more detail in audiophilestyle's HQPlayer threads.
Any recommendations for an inexpensive monitoring headphone? Needs to isolate pretty well. Was trying to use my ancient pair of modded T50RPs, but I don't really like the way they sound and I have modded them so much and many times, I don't know if I can fix them even if I felt like cracking them back open. Budget is $250 or lower. To be used out of a Motu M2 to live monitor.
Unpopular opinion but DT880 (250 or 600 ohm) would be excellent for that use case. The treble peakage may be used to good effect there and I've got at least two friends who make music that use em for that purpose. Semi-open so they keep the sound in while offering some environmental awareness, single sided cable, and also durable enough to withstand years of abuse.
DT880 may not isolate well enough though if that's a primary requirement. Monitoring mostly wants isolation then maybe a V shape to hear certain cues. Production is a different beast.
I'd go with the old standard HD25 for monitoring, or maybe the DT150/250 which are ugly but isolate well.
I will be recording ASMR type stuff, so monitoring background noise levels, gain hiss, etc. is the primary focus, so excellent isolation is definitely crucial. I loved the HD25's when I used to have a set, but since I wear glasses all the time now, I worry about the pressure of a supra-aural setup. One headphone that popped up in my mind is the Shure SRH840. I used to have a pair and liked them, but don't know if they would be better or worse than something like what has been suggested so far.
IMO, the absolute best closed back around 100-300€ is the K361 (costs 80€!). Sounds really close to the HD600 (minus of course the resolution and separation, also cheap closed back = a bit cavernous sound). Tonality though is extremely good. Like a HD600 with better bass extension. The only thing I didn't like, is the comfort. The pads are very squishy (also very low quality), so that the baffle would press against my ears (there is no foam on the baffle). They did an excellent job tuning it though!
There is also the K371, but that one has slightly more subbass, too much to be considered neutral. Not bad though if you want more quantity below 50Hz.
I don't know if there is anything better in terms of closed backs under 300€. This is the very best I tried, that doesn't require any mods at all. Just top notch FR. If the K361 doesn't convince you, I'd start looking into sub 300€ IEMs. All the other closed back stuff I tried had really poor FR.
EDIT: I mean look how close the K361 to the HD600 is according to Solderdude (the one with more bass is the K361 ofc): https://diyaudioheaven.files.wordpress.com/2020/04/k361-vs-hd600.png?w=768
Over a decade ago I had all the midrange DJ headphones like the 840, M50, DT770, etc.
The best thing about the 840 was the pads which were the go-to recommendation for the M50 and T50rp back in the day, but there's so many aftermarket options now. The 840 itself tends to put a lot of pressure on the top of your head as well which I found very uncomfortable after a while (it has a ridiculous hard rubber along the top which does nothing except add weight). Isolation and FR were decent though, if still a little humped. The 940 is a bit less humped from my fuzzy memory.
A set of DT770's will have better isolation than then DT880, and they have so much room in the cups you can stuff it and play with modding for a while, and the driver baffle even has a wall/ridge thing that you can muck around with. Once upon a time I also transplanted T50rp drivers into one. I'm pretty sure I still have it somewhere.
edit: no wait, it was the Beyer COP that I did the transplant into so I could play with the bass slider.
edit2: anyone want to buy my franken transplant COP? lol, I always forget that I still have it
Yeah. I heavily modded my SRH840s:
I removed the ridiculous rubber top and got a cheap Beyer headband cushion, rewired with fancy wire and converted to a mini xlr connector. I just don't remember how they sound compared to what I have listened to since... I also don't think I want to go through all that trouble again. I may go ahead and get the HD25s since they are so lightweight and small. I won't be recording for too long at a given time so maybe the pressure will be ok.
Here's a comparison I wrote 10 years ago though it feels like 20:
Probably the only comparison of note there is the M50.
edit: for reference here's another that also has the HD25: https://www.head-fi.org/threads/rev...neer-hdj-2000-v-moda-m80-aiaiai-tma-1.574617/
If going for the HD25, you could also look at the HD25-sp which had the simpler band that also had less clamping force. It either goes by the sp or as HD25-lite/light now.
I suggest trying different pads with the HD25 as there are many that are quite different, both in sound and comfort:
I just got the Yaxi Type B pads and clamping force is definitely reduced - but I don't wear glasses.
Somewhere in this thread there's also the link to a pad rolling video and some pad comparison charts:
I want to dip my toes in the IEM world (for cheap). I like the HD650 Kiss a lot. Preferably something in line with that tuning would be nice. I don't mind extra subbass at all. This is going to be a beater IEM more than anything really. Stuff I found:
- ER2SE (150€)
- Moondrop Kato (250€, 150€ slightly used)
- ER4XR (150€ from a guy 2nd hand)
- Moondrop Aria (80€)
I think the ER4XR is a no brainer right? Does that BA driver severly gimp it over the ER2SE (or 2XR)? The guy has it in pretty much ideal condition. I am just afraid the BA driver is gonna do its thing with the bass (soft and one noteish) + I'd prefer to buy new either way. If the ER4XR is really worth it over the ER2SE, I will go for it though. Thanks for any input!
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