Discussion in 'Cars, Motorcycles, Boats, Airplanes Talk' started by Maxvla, Sep 26, 2015.
in fact, unless Subaru changed things since our 2018 model, you can't use the cruise control if eyesight is disabled (which happens if the engine light comes on, you get snow in front of the cameras, you don't like to wash your windows, etc, etc). That part of it is a PITA (just did a loop from Western PA to Indiana to Ann Arbor and home... eyesight stopped for part of the trip and it was a PITA to not have the cruise)
Starting in 2023 Legacy/Outbacks they update the Eyesight generation.
This was the last gen:
The cameras aren't glued to the windshield, and you can touch the lens with your hands.
The new generation:
Higher trims get the third camera at the middle. My Legacy only has the two right/right cameras. See they are smaller, sealed to the windshield, and you can't touch them. Great upgrade just for that since idiots will try to clear out their windshield and by mistake they touch the lens on the cameras.
y u try to steal my jokes shamu rider?
Anyways, will post brain cell killing rant in a few to several days
agreed... its way to easy to fog the camera's on ours by simply cleaning the window and spraying windex.
Did they fix the problem where eyesight goes down if the check engine light goes on? (they can't really do anything about snow blocking the camera... not that you would have that problem)
it would also be nice if the cruise control defaulted to "normal mode" if eyesight was down... rather than disabling cruise completely
Dunno know yet, I only got 400 miles on the car. I’ll see what I can for testing once I break in the engine at 1000 miles.
Don’t forget Barney I am your daddy.
You can not permanently disable most Eyesight features on the 2023 Crosstrek Sport without doing some physical mods (disconnecting wires) but on newer gen Legacy, Outback, and Forester fwir its all accessible for perma disable thru the large media display.
Yep, on my ‘23 Crosstrek I cant use cruise control if the Eyesight cameras are obscured from snow etc. Subaru doesnt trust me to use cruise control with my pathetic human eyes.
Lifted vehicles and sedans are generally stupid. Sedans are generally uglier with less utility vs their wagon counterparts. I also question if the Legacy is actually shorter than the Outback. When in 5years your loan is paid off and youre wanting to trade-in youll wish you had gotten the much less depreciable Outback.
I bet youll miss the Fit. Every time I take the GTI out I appreciate how much more fun to drive it is than the Trek. I dont drive fast either. Hydraulic steering feedback, non-CVT, small hatchback, and sportier suspension.
Or you couldve bought suitable tires for the rainy months instead of getting AWD.
I have an appt for the Crosstrek this Saturday. Something inside the headliner is rattling.
Even so, in comparison to GTI I prefer the comfortable Subaru for daily commutes but I dont drive on smooth highways though so ymmv. Besides “drifting” those few fun snow days, one time I got to benefit from AWD when there was a car accident ahead and I got to ditch waiting in traffic by making my own trail over a few curbs. Hell no I wasnt going to wait in traffic like a normal person when I spent an extra $Xk to get the stupid lifted version of the Impreza.
Autism strikes again!
Legacy is slightly shorter than Outback. Considering the Legacy/Outback is 80% the same vehicle I guess the the end of the world is here. I'm not paying a surcharge for a wagon when I would most likely use it at most 5% of the time. Now when all the sedans are gone then I'll suck up the wagon, but all of my passengers in my Legacy love the ride quality and didn't feel sick when doing highway miles. Furthermore, brah you don't need anything lifted in FL when we don't have snow....unless you are going to offroad our various nature parks here in the Freedom state of FL.
I work in Indirect Auto Lending, and I have full access to the auction values of all cars. Difference between the Outback and the Legacy is around $2500ish, and it doesn't change much as they get older with higher mileage. Sounds about right since the difference between the two cars is $2k-$3k at most.
I drove my Fit with only 54,00 miles the other day, and the seats aren't comfortable for long distance driving. It's the perfect car for the GF since all the newer car tech is too confusing for her and she needs a simple car. Then again, Fit and GTI are two different cars.
Very true, but I'm not getting the dealer markup hit on any new sedans and the used market is still fucked (but it is slowly getting back to normal). I'll take the AWD hit if it means my passengers are comfortable and I get a factory order with anything I want.
Remember the Crosstrek is made in Japan, and shit happens. Even Honda and Toyota aren't free from early crap like that.
I wonder if the headliner was rattling from that....at least you are enjoying the Crosstrek!
I shouldve got a Legacy.
Without looking up the specs I can believe it. Its just in general hatches appear to be shorter than their sedan versions. But Subie is special with the Outback - its definitely fitting of wagon moniker. The more I see of the new Outback the more I like it.
Worth it for the aesthetics alone.
Sounds about right from when I was researching used vehicles. Are your numbers national or regional?
Ya but you had to order a Legacy.
My previous Japanese vehicles were all super reliable. The VW was terribly unreliable and expensive. I originally thought it was mostly myth.
Thank you. From what Ive read online their is wiring taped directly to the headliner that can sometimes come undone and cause that rattling. I did leave my sunroof vented over night on accident and it rained hard...
Saw ads for a track day at Willows Springs Raceway on the 25th. Haven't touched the internals of my 22 WRX yet but kinda want to do the track day to get a good feel for the car in actual track conditions then adding different things for it.
I don't know about the 2022 WRX, but if I was going to track my 2018 WRX I'd for sure make sure to get upgraded steel brake lines first. I've seen too many WRX's get overheated/fading brakes after only a few laps, and the one thing those all had in common was having stock brake lines.
While I would never recommend against upgrading brake parts of any kind on most cars, just worth mentioning that brake fluid is really important too. If you are going to track a completely stock car of any make you should run a better quality (eg higher boiling point) fluid than whatever came from the factory. This is cheap and easy and often makes a huge improvement. I'd expect WRX specific web forums to have some discussion of what fluid people prefer, as well as pads, and everything else.
And as a follow up on brake fluid. Drain and Fill them once a year if you live in really humid climates like I am in FL. It will start eating the metal in no time if it doesn’t.
Also you haven’t really have the WRX without racing and mods.
I'm debating going too that same day
Yeah few other 2022 WRX owners I saw mention at their track day with a few laps they noticed pretty bad brake fade with stock pads or even slightly better pads they said on future days they wanted to have better brakes ready. So I will probably look into what is recommended and bring it to the shop soon to upgrade few things.
Also new tires was also a real popular rec, been thinking about getting some Pilot Sport 4S for kind of a hybrid of daily and track driving. Think I will aim to improve brakes first, let the wallet recover a little from the holidays, then handle tires later.
OEM rubber lines are a much better idea for cars that aren't track-only. But regardless, brake lines don't prevent overheating.
If the brakes are overheating, better fluid might help a tiny bit. But the only real fixes are a) better cooling, and b) not using them so much.
This is true. The fluid probably makes a bigger difference.
But yeah ultimately brakes work via friction and will get very hot.
Just curious - why is OEM rubber better for a daily driver? My understanding is stainless lines are internally lined with rubbers, layers of teflon, and other similar materials anyways and the additional stainless weave on the outside is just there to prevent expansion.
Is it only because one can easily see when a rubber line needs to be changed vs not such much with a stainless line - which given their relatively low price I assume people are just changing these out regularly anyways? Asking as I'm about to change mine to stainless lines given that I need to get the fluid changed very soon anyways.
On a different note - my car is overweight for it's size and also has issues with brake fade after several laps. I might eventually get ducts, but for time being I've actually found driving without ducts, a bigger or otherwise "gooder" braking system, a more aggressive compound with a different coeff vs temp plot, etc. actually helps me git gud scrub. Despite my repeated complaints about dumb drivers everywhere, I have no problem saying I am far from the best driver I know.
From what I've heard and read, regular rubber over nylon braided lines fail less catastrophically then SS braid over teflon. Rubber over nylon braid has a greater temperature sensitivity than SS over teflon does. SS over teflon typically fail at the crimped connections, if the hose itself isn't compromised. SS over teflon are also much more abrasion resistant.
The thing with brakes is that no matter how high temp the pads or fluid or lines are capable of handling, there's a thermal limit to the entire system that's determined by the thermal mass of the calipers and rotors and how often/how much the brakes are used. It's kind of why most track braking should be threshold braking; minimize the time adding heat to the system. brushing brakes can add a detrimental amount of heat if you're brushing brakes 6 times every lap in addition to the one or two big braking zones on a course. Ducting can certainly help shed heat, but it's ultimately a function of the thermal mass of the rotors which shed heat into the caliper, which then has to disperse that heat so as to not glaze the pads or boil the fluid, or fry the piston seals. Big brakes aren't there just to look cool; they add thermal mass and spread out the surface area between rotors and calipers to keep the brakes within a temperature where the pads and fluid continue to function properly.
The swept area of the pad/disc combination is also important in terms of actual braking force applied, aside from the heat dissipation advantage of a larger assembly. And wrt ss lines, obviously the less force applied to the lever (sorry, pedal, my experience is mostly with motorcycles) that is converted to expansion of the brake line instead of pressure upon the disc the better the braking force applied.
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