Super Best Audio Friends
The evolution of the original irreverent and irrelevant and non-authoritative site for headphone measurements, i.e. frequency response graphs, CSD waterfall plots, subjective gear reviews. Too objective for subjectivists; too subjective for objectivists
With respect to technicalities and scalability with better upstream components, the Autuer Classic is behind the Atrium and Verite. It's not far off though. This seems appropriate given its about $1k less. Depending upon the recordings one listens to, this may not matter. (I feel a good discussion on source first, amp first, or transducer first is warranted because a lot of this will depend upon the recordings one listens too - and of course one's experience and budget). Now getting back to the HD600 reference? Well the Autuer does share the HD600's small bumps in the presence region and midbass. The lower-mids aren't emphasized so this contributes the clarity aspect. Finally, transient response is somewhere between Atrium and Verite.
Gerod S-Small pads (left) vs standard Grado bowl (right)
While I loved the more resolving driver of the RS1X, and the fancy wood resonance from the triple wood sandwich, I preferred the nice punchy bass bump of the RS1e. So what to do? I think @Philimon turned me on to alternate pads. I know Amazon had a set that were similar to the Grados, but more squishy so they set closer to the ears. These Gerod bowls take a slightly different approach. Taping the standard bowls helped a bit, but this approach seemed ungainly or unwieldy. It felt too cheap, too DIY.
My ultimate goal was just to get back that RS1e bass bump without changing too much else. That is to retain the charm of the RS-1 upper mids (or the terror of it depending upon your point of view). The latest F-cushions worked wonders on the SR-225X and HF2 to make them rather neutral sounding, but simply do not work on the RS1e/x series. The F-cushions on the RS1e/x series results in too dark of a sound with significantly depressed mid-treble. So I took a small gamble on the Gerod pads on Amazon.
ETA Mini S
The Mini S is a semi-open design that often comes with associated usually "better" sonic qualities: snappier transient response, more spacious headstage, improved responsiveness to small signals, etc. The Mini S does scales a bit better the the Mini C with more expensive gear, but like the C, it doesn't need an "amp" or "DAC". It sounds good great from the Android dongle and great from the iFi GO Blu. (Audioslave and STP are sure sounding pretty good and energetic instead of softpoo).
ETA Mini Closed on left, Mini Semi-Open on right.
Walking around the major film studios in Hollywood, the closed headphone of choice seems to be the ATH-M50x reviewed here. But oh gawd, too much bass. The only closed alternative I can think of is the HD439 which wasn't bad with respect to frequency response, but the sound from it was downright low-fi.
Well, the ETA Mini C is it. More than any other headphone I can think of at this time, the Mini C is the most deserving to have the moniker of "studio headphone". In fact, both my daughter and I have been using the Mini C when we are playing the drums. (And BTW, the Sony MDR7506 don't count either, they sound all sorts of messed up tonally)
- Audeze Euclid
- Tin Hifi P2
- TRN Kirin
- TFZ Balance 7
- Gold Planar G12
- Gold Planar GL20
- PMV PP
- Letshouer S12
- Timeless 7hz
1) Yggdrasil A2 -> Liquid Gold X -> iems
2) Yggdrasil A2 -> Vali 2+ -> iems
3) iphone -> iFI Hip Dac/ Nano BL -> iems
4) iphone -> RU6 -> ems
5) ipod touch 7 -> iems
Now what seems like 15 or more years later, the folks at Drop have collaborated with Etymotic to make a new version called the ERX for people who did not want their ear holes assaulted. There's now a normal IEM body instead of a phallic tube. In addition, a set of tips is included that provides a good seal with a good tonal signature (that is not lean or spiky in the highs). At least for me it did. FWIW, I did try the triple flange tip and could not get it to work properly because the body of the IEM prevents deep insertion. Anyway, why did it take so long?
Drop + Etymotic ERX IEM
I would have to say that this is the most agreeable Ety yet to my ears. There's a good amount of bass that extends low. It's not overdone. Of course tastes and gear references vary, thus I can see many IEM users wanting moar bass, moar upper-mids, more treble, a la the Harmon Curve, which this community on average happens to somewhat disagree with (or vehemently disagree when comes to its IE target).
Overall I'm very impressed. Based off of others impressions, I thought that in terms of overall character they might be a laid back warmer listen, but they aren't coming across as that, at all really. I don't really feel like they are an improved 007, or an improved 009(S.) They are doing their own thing. More treble than I was expecting, or maybe it's just a spike somewhere in the treble rather than an overall elevation of the highs. They are the "biggest" sounding stax I've heard but not as big as the Shangri-La Sr sounds. When I say "big" I mean in terms of the overall sound, not necessarily soundstage width etc. Its hard to explain, but to me there is a difference between soundstage, and how "big" the overall sonic picture is.
The Ikeda arm on the BL-91? Now that would interesting. Heck, maybe the longer Ikeda arm as a complement to the shorter one the Classic 4 (if I can figure out how to mount it on the BL-31). The SAEC 407/23 isn't in the same class as the Ikeda IT-345, but knowing that these were often paired with SPU cartridges back in the day, I figured it would do the job with the low-compliance DL-103 - which it does. I've got an SPU on order from overseas, but I have no idea when I will receive it.
I don’t have any electrodynamics to use, and wouldn’t know what to say except "eeewwww electrodynamics" (in a whiny voice) even if I did. In other words, I don’t really like electrodynamics no matter what the amp is (for the most part), so it’s hard for me to evaluate an amp with transducers I not only don’t know well, but don't really like. So keep that in mind. I suspect that given the design of this amp, it is a good implementation for orthos so it doesn’t make much difference. Upscale Audio recommended this amp to me when I was looking at the Felix Envy (mostly with lust) as a powerful amp for orthos.
This is a big amp with a completely unique design unlike any headphone amplifier you’ve ever seen. Huge heatsinks on the sides are raised above the bottom of the amp and the front face is forward from the base, giving it a kind of floating look while still looking quite muscular. A LOT of work went into the design of this amp. I believe a lot of work went into the acoustic design as well. But the question we have to ask is: how much?
The RU6 has an R2R DAC and an analog section that has a euphonic richness reminiscent of tube amps. My Vali 2+ rig is a Yggdrasil R2R DAC and the Vali 2+ is a tube amp. The Vali 2+ costs $150 and the RU6 costs $100 more at $250. While the Vali 2+ doesn’t come with a DAC, we all already have desktop DACs, so the cost of adding one of these to your system is $100 less for the Vali 2+. Which is what makes this interesting, along with their similar character - R2R plus tube euphonics.
From my experience and from what others have said about iems that work with the RU6, I think they synergize with a very similar group of iems. However, the Vali 2+ can be tube rolled to tailor it’s sound brigther, warmer, more/less bass etc so it has more versatility than the RU6.